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2 Amps, 1 Distributor Block, 1 Cap

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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:08 PM
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2 Amps, 1 Distributor Block, 1 Cap

Hello everyone, I'm trying to wire two (2) amplifiers with one distributor block and one capacitor. I want to use the capacitor to supply both amplifiers. The main question is, do I (or can I...) place the capacitor in front of the distributor block, or I must place it after the distributor block on one amplifier only? A quick check on BCAE didn't mention anything of a setup of this sort.

Hardware in use:
1x JBL GTO 1201.1 II, 120A
1x JBL PX300.4, 60A
1x Tsunami capacitor, 5 Farads

Diagram for visual clarification:




In the event of three (3) amplifiers (two 1201.1 II, 120A each), would I have to substitute the 250A fuse with a 300A one? Will my 5 Farad capacitor be enough for all three amplifiers? Let's pretend the alternator can handle these amplifiers fine (I'll be swapping it if needed).
Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:09 PM
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There is no benefit to placing a capacitor any certain place in an electrical system, as long as its present the effect will be the same.
Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by FusionMadsen
There is no benefit to placing a capacitor any certain place in an electrical system, as long as its present the effect will be the same.
I would like both amplifiers to benefit from the capacitor, hence the position before the distributor block.

For the triple amplifier setup, will a 300A fuse do fine?
Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:26 PM
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Dude, trust me, that capacitor could be on a dead end set of wires 5 feet from your amps and have the same effect, research what it does if you don't believe me. And 300a is ****ing mental for 3 amps, you could probably get away with 150a or even 100a.
Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by FusionMadsen
Dude, trust me, that capacitor could be on a dead end set of wires 5 feet from your amps and have the same effect, research what it does if you don't believe me. And 300a is ****ing mental for 3 amps, you could probably get away with 150a or even 100a.
Ah, you're right on the capacitor. I always thought the caps were to be placed like fuses in a circuit.

I'll stick with the 250A fuse then. I was running dual power lines in my old setup (250A just for the 1201.1 II) but I guess that was overkill. Thanks for the help & knowledge.
Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:55 PM
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I think a 250A fuse is overkill also. If its a daily driver setup, chances are that you will never pull 250a out of that system, so why not drop to a 150? it just gives you that much more protection against electrical fires. If you do so and find yourself pushing your system to the limit ALL THE TIME, and you do blow that fuse, try increasing it by 25A until it's good. Just my opinion, better safe than sorry, replacing fuses is way cheaper than replacing equipment, or in a worst case scenario, your car full of equipment.
Old Nov 7, 2007 | 07:20 AM
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I have my caps on the input side of the distribution block, that way they are wired with 0 ga. rather than the 6 ga. that goes to each of the 6 amps.

I also went down to a 100 amp fuse at the battery, can you picture how big a spark you get when you short your power wire to chassis on a 250 amp fuse? It usually starts a fire before the fuse blows.
Old Nov 7, 2007 | 09:56 AM
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I'll take your advices and bring down the fuse to 100A at the battery. I'm just wondering how I got a 250A fuse on this Tsunami amplifier install kit. I have been driving with it for over 2 years and never encountered any problems... actually, I did encounter blown fuses on an amplifier once (the 1201.1). Perhaps I just solved the mystery with this thread. Yes, it is a daily driver setup, and I like my audio loud.
Old Nov 7, 2007 | 11:43 AM
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mmx, I want to also inform you of something for future reference, just to give you the proper knowledge of how to choose fuse size. First, to figure out your amperage draw, divide RMS power by 12v, this will give you the absolute most amp draw from the battery. Also, since I'm assuming you are running 4AWG wire, 4 gauge has a maximum current flow of 125a (for runs 16+ feet), after 125a the wire can and will get hot and melt. You never want your fuse amperage to exceed your wire amperage, otherwise you mideswell just not use a fuse at all.

Just some helpful knowledge.
Old Nov 7, 2007 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by FusionMadsen
mmx, I want to also inform you of something for future reference, just to give you the proper knowledge of how to choose fuse size. First, to figure out your amperage draw, divide RMS power by 12v, this will give you the absolute most amp draw from the battery. Also, since I'm assuming you are running 4AWG wire, 4 gauge has a maximum current flow of 125a (for runs 16+ feet), after 125a the wire can and will get hot and melt. You never want your fuse amperage to exceed your wire amperage, otherwise you mideswell just not use a fuse at all.

Just some helpful knowledge.
Gotcha, thank you! Well, as noted in the picture in my original post, the fuses on the amplifiers themselves are 120A and 60A respectively, and I will be running 2 gauge wiring from the battery to the distribution block. Now since both amplifiers are drawing a total of 180A from the battery, is it logical to say that I will need a minimum fuse of 180A (200A since I can't find 180A) at the battery?

At the distribution block, I know I have to fuse accordingly for each amplifier, especially since now I will be running 4 gauge wiring. In this case, if I place 120A [125A] and 60A fuses at the distribution block, would they protect the amplifiers?

Last edited by mmx; Nov 7, 2007 at 07:37 PM.
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