two runs? Meaning each amp gets one 4 guage wire each right?

 

Yeah, you will run one positive cable to each amp and ground each amp with one cable.

 

What do you think of running this amp for the speakers: MTX TA3404 4-CHANNEL

Brand: MTX
RMS Power Output: 50 Watts x 4 @ 2 Ohm, 25 Watts x 4 @ 4 Ohm
Peak Power Output: 100 Watts x 4 @ 2 Ohm, 50 Watts x 4 @ 4 Ohm
Birdged Output: 4 Bridged 200 Watts x 2, 2 Bridged 400 Watts x 1
Signal To Noise Ratio: 78 dB
Built-In Crossovers: High Pass, Low Pass
THD @ 4 Ohm RMS Power: <0.25 %
Built in Cooling Fan: Yes


The peak is 100w x 4 @ 2ohms but I dont know if that will be stable enough to be running all the time.... I can get this amp for pretty cheap <$100 oppose to paying $300 for the alpine 450 :\

 

or better yet, the MTX TC4004

» 4-channel car amplifier
» 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (100 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
» 200 watts RMS x 2 in bridged mode (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
» each amp is tested and certified to produce 10% more power than listed
» variable high-pass/low-pass filters (40-350 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
» variable Thunder EQ bass boost with wired remote control (0-18 dB at 40 Hz)
» preamp-level inputs
» speaker-level inputs with Smart Engage
» N-Channel technology for efficient power output

Is there really going to be a big difference betwen these MTX amps and the Alpine sound quality wise?

 

I would also look at the Kenwood amps especially the excelon line, really good amp and very affordable.I say do the big three, the two runs of 4 gauge are a bit of overkill in my opinion, I would just do 1 run of 0 gauge instead.

 

Would I need 2 kits of 0 gauge or will one kit wire both amps?

Also selective sound, could you give me a rough estimate of how much your shop would charge to:

Install the 4 alpine speakers
Wire the two amps(one to speakers and the other to the sub)

Presuming I have all the necessary accesories (wiring kit in particular)

 

You have a p.m.

 

Alright So I picked up the MTX TC4004 for the 4 alpine type R speakers
» 4-channel car amplifier
» 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (100 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
» 200 watts RMS x 2 in bridged mode (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
» each amp is tested and certified to produce 10% more power than listed
» variable high-pass/low-pass filters (40-350 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
» variable Thunder EQ bass boost with wired remote control (0-18 dB at 40 Hz)
» preamp-level inputs
» speaker-level inputs with Smart Engage
» N-Channel technology for efficient power output

Now for the Subs I think im going to get the KENWOOD KAC-9104D Class-D MONO 1800W

Amplifier Class : Class D
Number of Channels : 1-Channel
Maximum Power : 1800 Watts
RMS Power Output @ 4 Ohms : 500 Watts x 1-Channel
RMS Power Output @ 2 Ohms : 900 Watts x 1 Channel
Bridged Power : N/A
THD : 1%
Signal-to-Noise Ratio (dB) : 100dB
Frequency Response (Hz) : 20Hz~200Hz
Built-in Crossover : N/A
High-Pass Crossover Frequency : N/A
Low-Pass Crossover Frequency : 50Hz~200Hz
Bass Boost : 0dB~18dB
Bass Remote : N/A
Fan Cooled : Yes
Fuse Rating : 30A x 2

Are kenwood amps reliable and well known for their hard bass capabilities?
Also I dont want my car battery to go all crazy so Ive decided to get a capacitor, how many Farads should it be?

 

That Kenwood amp is a great choice. Don't bother with the capacitor. The big three is a much better and cheaper alternative.

 

Capacitors are nothing but a bandaid fix for insufficient power. Do your wiring and electrical properly and you will never need a cap. They are a marketing gimmik.