Thrill_House

So heres my dilema, I have a 1991 Honda civic which came originally equipped with a 60 amp alternator which i have since upgraded to a 140amp H.O. unit to support my future system. Im not sure how many of you are familiar with these cars but they came originally equipped with and ELD (electrical load distrobution) unit which caused the alternator to only charge when under load, it was basically a fuel economy feature. Well the problem is this, since the alternator is connected first through the fuse box where the ELD is located and then it runs to the battery I am limited to its original 60amp peak capacity. Well when I rewire the car I plan on running a 0 Gauge direct feed from the alternator to the battery effictively bypassing the fuse box and ELD all together and I need to know if this will cause and issues with the charging system. As it stands know the alternator is pretty much always charging due to the extra electrical load I have placed on it.

Loud Brown Kicker Colt

iTrader: (1)

the oe voltage regulator uses a feedback circuit from the computer(ecm)the only ways to make it work (1) use a single wire (self exciting) regulator (2) cut the feedback wire (3) adjustable aftermarket regulator [img]graemlins/deal4u.gif[/img]

[ March 15, 2005, 09:55 PM: Message edited by: Loud Brown Kicker Colt ]

Thrill_House

Could I not just run a positive lead off the alternator not only straight to the battery but still have it attached to the eld box as well so it charges at the correct voltage?

Thrill_House

What would happen if you simply cut the feedback wire?

mugen1

Most people wouldn't do this, but I have a second alternator placed where the air conditioner would normally go. A buddy of mine welded a bracket for me. In other words I have a dedicated charging system for the car stereo. 4th generation Civics come with the extra pulley already. I have only seen one Civic with air con installed. I often wondered if I could've just used the brackets meant for that instead.

Man, having an independent alternator and battery in the back is awesome. Little or no noise whatsoever and you can run your battery in the back right down and still be able to start the car. I get funny looks when i jump start other people's cars from the hatch. I'm using one of them chrome GM alternators (S10).

Thrill_House

Dude i have no need to run a second alt, i had a HO 140 amp alt that was custom built for this car, I am also not going to be running any extra batterys in the back of my car either because everthing in the back of my car is built into a false floor so there is no way im gonna jam a battery back there. One large, good quality, heavy duty battery up front is good enough to suit my needs. Remember I dont compete in spl either, just SQ.

mugen1

Dude, just pointing out an alternative for others. I wasn't suggesting you do it. The beauty of a forum is others get ideas from whatever comes up. I have a Civic, so I thought I'd share what I had done. BTW, I am into SQ...... always have been. Half a dozen first place finishes - went to finals - albeit back in the dark ages (circa 1990). Not that winning at competitions gives anyone braggin' rights.

I noticed your sig. It reads Civic CX turned SiR. I also noticed the EF9 front clip - nice. Do you have B16A motor and LSD close ratio tranny to complete the change over? I'm into Civics, so sorry for the intrusion. Besides, I had thought Loud Brown Kicker Colt answered your question.

JohnVroom

^ pretty slick electrical crap mugen1

Loud Brown Kicker Colt

iTrader: (1)

if the feedback wire is cut, it will behave just like a regular alternator. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
i would try removing the connector from the plug, with a connector tool(snap-on,mac,etc..)rather than cutting