Big 3, Alt to Batt +'ve question
 

Does the Alt to Battery positive part of the big 3 need a fuse? It's a 110A Alternator, and the other feed from the Alt hits part of the fuse box and is fused for 125 there too.

Thanks!

D

I did on mine, but some people don't. I think it's a matter of how safe do you want to be? :dunno:

safety
 

I'm totally all for safety.

I would think it makes sense to have a fuse on any feed from the battery somewhere to avoid fires etc.. due to collisions.

Am I right in thinking that say I was in a head-on collision and the new big 3 alt->grnd got pinched, the fuse would handle the runaway battery discharge?

Just confirming the thought behind it.

It doesn't "need" to be fused. It's up to you.

Funny how OEM systems (mine anyway) don't use a fuse. :dunno:

I'm in the middle of Big 3 upgrade in 0 ga and won't be using a fuse.

i never used a fuse on mine, there is no fuse on the stock so it must be safe :)

You would have to use 2 fuses, as both the battery and alternator are current sources. 1 fuse would only protect one (depending where the short was) from shorting leaving the other shorted. 1 fuse is a waste of time; either use 2 fuses or none.

I didn't bother to fuse the wire between the battery and alternator.

OEM systems don't have a fuse per say, what they do have is a fuseable link that most people cannot see and they never know it is there. Thus they beleive that because there is no fuse labelled or present that it is not important. It is important, a new line needs a new fuse. Fuse it.

Whenever you have a power wire, it should be fused, so I read !

x2
I had a fusable link and could NOT tell it was there... when I upgraded the wiring I replaced the link with a fuse.

Here we go with the Fuse vs. No-Fuse debate. The purpose of a fuse is simply to prevent a short. Having said this, you might as well use a fuse close to the battery, and one close to the alt.