Connecting 4 ch amp to sub amp..why?
Connecting 4 ch amp to sub amp..why?
Head unit is a Pioneer DEH6000.
4 Kappa 6"x8" in the doors.
Just purchased an MTX TC4004 for the doors. I already have a 500rms amp to drive the subs (2x12"), 250 to each sub.
I am wondering if there is any benefit to connecting the 4 channel amp to the sub amp via the line in/out (I think MTX calls it "sum" out or something like that).
The Pioneer has 3 sets of pre outs (4v) so everything is obvious there, and the 4 ch MTX looks like a very simple install, but I guess Im just missing what the point would be of connecting those 2 amps together.
In case I have not explained myself correctly, I do not mean connecting any power, speaker, remote, or any other wires except the RCA out / RCA in on the 2 amps.
if there is some benefit, I'll do it, but I would hate to lose functionality on one of the amps (for sake of argument).
Thank You
4 Kappa 6"x8" in the doors.
Just purchased an MTX TC4004 for the doors. I already have a 500rms amp to drive the subs (2x12"), 250 to each sub.
I am wondering if there is any benefit to connecting the 4 channel amp to the sub amp via the line in/out (I think MTX calls it "sum" out or something like that).
The Pioneer has 3 sets of pre outs (4v) so everything is obvious there, and the 4 ch MTX looks like a very simple install, but I guess Im just missing what the point would be of connecting those 2 amps together.
In case I have not explained myself correctly, I do not mean connecting any power, speaker, remote, or any other wires except the RCA out / RCA in on the 2 amps.
if there is some benefit, I'll do it, but I would hate to lose functionality on one of the amps (for sake of argument).
Thank You
Thank you for your reply.
On a side note, the MTX certificate in the box (TC4004) states it was tested at 72 RMS per channel at 4 ohms (rated at 50), tested at 519W total into 2 OHMS (rated 400RMS) as well as rated at 80dB, tested at 90dB.
It obviously is no audiophile's amp, but Future Shop had 20% off last night, plus this amp had a $50.00 gift card offer which they allowed me to use towards the purchase, so it only came out to $230.00 or so, tax in.
John
On a side note, the MTX certificate in the box (TC4004) states it was tested at 72 RMS per channel at 4 ohms (rated at 50), tested at 519W total into 2 OHMS (rated 400RMS) as well as rated at 80dB, tested at 90dB.
It obviously is no audiophile's amp, but Future Shop had 20% off last night, plus this amp had a $50.00 gift card offer which they allowed me to use towards the purchase, so it only came out to $230.00 or so, tax in.
John
be careful with that amp. we put a brandy new one in my buddies 320i. and it wacky on him. the gains did not control anything and it ended up frying his front speakers.
i worked at future shop up until two weeks ago and was never a fan of the mtx TC series amps. they like to over heat.
if i could make a suggestuions i would recomend while the amp is still functional that you try to sell it for more then you paid and find an older MTX MXA serries four channel amp.
i just sold mine bu tevery one i have ever talked to about it has only had good things to say about them . and i personally have never had any problems with it. even though it was old beaten up and looked like shizzle
i worked at future shop up until two weeks ago and was never a fan of the mtx TC series amps. they like to over heat.
if i could make a suggestuions i would recomend while the amp is still functional that you try to sell it for more then you paid and find an older MTX MXA serries four channel amp.
i just sold mine bu tevery one i have ever talked to about it has only had good things to say about them . and i personally have never had any problems with it. even though it was old beaten up and looked like shizzle
I have the mtx4004 I also work at FS. The only real problem we have with them over heating is when people use the 2 and 4 channel amps to run subs. when there used to run mids they run fine. They do run hot but do not over heat. I have a TC4004 and a MXA6001. The MXA series are definitly better though.The TC's for that price are very hard to beat.
its true . they arent terribel amps .
but when the unit ocmes out brandy new and decides to go wacky after about two hours of use. i have lost faith in them.
btw godzilla you have the same mono as i used to run also.
but recently made a drastic upgrade.
but when the unit ocmes out brandy new and decides to go wacky after about two hours of use. i have lost faith in them.
btw godzilla you have the same mono as i used to run also.
but recently made a drastic upgrade.
I had one go wacky out the box as well, but it's electronics. If you buy it from a store just march back in and grab another! The second has had no problems and belive me I abuse it.Most likely john__taylor will have many years of abuse in his future, and remember it was $230 tax in which is dirt cheap.
P.S. Sorry for the thread jacking
P.S. Sorry for the thread jacking
yea i guess he could. i mean another friend has teh TC8001 and its never gone wrong other then occasional over heating on long trips of pound. hah. but yea when it blew up the speaeklers in the bmw i lost all faith. cuz i helped on that install and believe me . you never wanna put speakers into stock holes in a bmw. if i remeber correctly we somehow glued them in. that car is just a pain in its entirety to work on. (other then trunk cuz battery is right there haha)
Thanks for the heads up, so far, so good. Funny enough though when I first turned the key after buttoning the doors back up I thought it sounded a bit funny..took me a bit to figure out the drivers door was dead 
So...bad amp, bad head unit, or speaker problem. Picked the easiest first, door speaker.
I got real lucky.
Turns out a piece of deadener (about 10lbs per door) was too close to the window track. Window tore it off, dragged it over the speaker terminals and pulled them off. The 12awg wire sure wasn't gonna break, but luckily I went to the trouble of installing them with connectors & light crimp only.
As for the amp, I always buy the extended warranty ( I know, I know) on inexpensive stuff because what's $25.00 or $30.00 for two years?
On big ticket items, not a chance. Paid $1100 for my laptop a couple months ago and the service plan was $350.00. I don't think so.
The plan on my sons 42" a month ago was even more insane.
John

So...bad amp, bad head unit, or speaker problem. Picked the easiest first, door speaker.
I got real lucky.
Turns out a piece of deadener (about 10lbs per door) was too close to the window track. Window tore it off, dragged it over the speaker terminals and pulled them off. The 12awg wire sure wasn't gonna break, but luckily I went to the trouble of installing them with connectors & light crimp only.
As for the amp, I always buy the extended warranty ( I know, I know) on inexpensive stuff because what's $25.00 or $30.00 for two years?
On big ticket items, not a chance. Paid $1100 for my laptop a couple months ago and the service plan was $350.00. I don't think so.
The plan on my sons 42" a month ago was even more insane.
John


