[I ment to say 'Speaker wire length' In the topic]

I have my Morel Tempo crossover inside the door panel, The metal looked like brand new with no rust for a 2006 car so I made 3 holes and zip tied it so it won't move or vibrate.

Now...with speaker length from the tweeter to the mid, I am wondering if it really matters at all with the crossover. But I am thinking keep the speaker length as short as possible in all audio situations.

Just curious.

 

Length of speaker wire is inconsequential. Signal travels down copper at nearly the speed of light.

 

Travels at the speed of electricity, kinda cuz that's what it is... But w/e your point is still valid, and you're right about it being inconsequential. The issue with seperating the tweet from the midrange is that the timing from the drivers to your ears will differ, causing sound stage issues. The crossover/speaker wire length won't affect this. It is best to have the tweeter as close to the midrange as possible

 

In my case I was pretty much forced to put the tweeter in the "A" pillar, Because if I ever wanted to take out the speakers I can just buy some new "A" pillars and put them in and I wouldn't have any holes in panel.

These Morel's sound very smooth and are not that harsh, The completely blow away the Infinity Reference components I had before.

These Morels are the best sounding speaker I have ever heard (So far).

 

The 5030 has time alignment, so you can kinda cheat with it and correct the timing issues with the tweet being further out

 

You can only adjust the time alignment when you have 4 speakers enabled, And I only use my front comps.

Sounds good though

 

Time to go active on the comps......

 

What are the advantages of Active though compared to Passive.

 

More control, and cleaner sound typically. You can go semi-active with your deck if you wanted to...just use your front speaker leads for the tweeters and cross them at the same freq as the passives...3800hz i think, and use your rear speaker leads for the mids, and connect them to the passives as you normally would (the passives will cut the mids around 3800hz). This will allow you to control t/a for the tweeters and the mids individually, and will double your power output as all channels will be used.

 

^ I did this in my Civic and it was surprisingly decent