Fusing Questions
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 16,860
Larger cables always help. Use a digital multimeter to see what the voltage sags to when the bass hits, both at the amp and at the battery. If it drops more at the amp I would say it could be undersized wiring. If it is about the same then maybe your battery is tired.
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0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 13
I tested it and the readings were quite different.
The voltage at the battery went from 14 all the way down to 13 and sometimes 12 when the bass hit hard.
At the amp, the voltage stayed basically the same, hovering around 13. Dipping down to 12.8 once or twice but quickly jumping back up to 13-13.9.
What's the verdict on that?
I also have two amps running off a distro block in this system so there is definitely a large load on the battery.
The voltage at the battery went from 14 all the way down to 13 and sometimes 12 when the bass hit hard.
At the amp, the voltage stayed basically the same, hovering around 13. Dipping down to 12.8 once or twice but quickly jumping back up to 13-13.9.
What's the verdict on that?
I also have two amps running off a distro block in this system so there is definitely a large load on the battery.
Last edited by Wieber; Nov 5, 2011 at 02:41 PM.
50 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 384
I tested it and the readings were quite different.
The voltage at the battery went from 14 all the way down to 13 and sometimes 12 when the bass hit hard.
At the amp, the voltage stayed basically the same, hovering around 13. Dipping down to 12.8 once or twice but quickly jumping back up to 13-13.9.
What's the verdict on that?
I also have two amps running off a distro block in this system so there is definitely a large load on the battery.
The voltage at the battery went from 14 all the way down to 13 and sometimes 12 when the bass hit hard.
At the amp, the voltage stayed basically the same, hovering around 13. Dipping down to 12.8 once or twice but quickly jumping back up to 13-13.9.
What's the verdict on that?
I also have two amps running off a distro block in this system so there is definitely a large load on the battery.
that kind of voltage drop indicates that there is not enough current being produced. Check the alternators output again. 170A @ 1800 rpm and 70A at idle seems like way to much of a jump IMO.Maybe 170A @ 3500 rpm. When I had my alt rebuilt on my 93 Civic it was 140A@3000 rpm and 90A at an idle of 800 rpm. If the alt is truly putting out sufficient current, then you need to check for loose grounds or other faulty components. Check the voltage at the amp. Is it the same voltage as at the battery?
definitely wouldn't hurt to check that for sure and also check the voltage at the battery with the car running, see if the voltage at the two points are the same.
--SPECIAL ED--
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 16
First you have to sure these things...
Check that battery is fully charged
How much charge is left in the battery
Does it meet the manufacturer's specification
Has there been any deterioration in performance since it was new
How long will it last
Do the safety devices all work
Does it generate interference or electrical noise
Is it affected by interference or electrical noise
Check that battery is fully charged
How much charge is left in the battery
Does it meet the manufacturer's specification
Has there been any deterioration in performance since it was new
How long will it last
Do the safety devices all work
Does it generate interference or electrical noise
Is it affected by interference or electrical noise
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