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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 10:22 PM
  #11  
danyman's Avatar
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if you want to have better power AND get rid of any powering problems send 2 12gauge power wire from the battery to the deck. the constant will be.. well constant and the acc. will be running with a relay.

i will be doing this soon lol i find its the better way to go and you have less of a chance to get noise from the deck
Old Jan 2, 2009 | 10:23 PM
  #12  
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bosch relay i mean
Old Jan 2, 2009 | 10:26 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by danyman
if you want to have better power AND get rid of any powering problems send 2 12gauge power wire from the battery to the deck. the constant will be.. well constant and the acc. will be running with a relay.

i will be doing this soon lol i find its the better way to go and you have less of a chance to get noise from the deck
Yup agree there was going to suggest that as well. I have found I don't get much headlight dimming, but the display on the HU will pulse to the beat when it is cranked right up. Definately looks like a lack of power to the HU to me. What does everyone else think?
Old Jan 2, 2009 | 10:33 PM
  #14  
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Well I switched the yellow and red wires around and solved the issue of the radio staying on. Now it only comes on with the ignition. However the unit is still burning somewhere internally so I only had it plugged in for a few seconds. Aside from the ground wire and the remote wire there is no additional wires to play around with even if I was to disregard the colour. My main concern at this point is why the unit is heating up so rapidly upon plugging it in.

Also I understand the benefits of wiring the HU directly to the battery but I have a very small system and don't have the time or desire to do such a task. I don't have amps or subs just 4 high quality speakers and this new piece of crap HU.

Last edited by ryan12345; Jan 2, 2009 at 10:36 PM.
Old Jan 3, 2009 | 12:50 AM
  #15  
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It sounds to me like you'll need a multi-meter to figure this one out. Do you have one, or know someone that you can borrow/steal from?
When you get one, unplug the harness from the deck. Test each wire for power first. Then test each wire for ground next. If you find that one of the wires that has power or ground that isn't supposed to, follow it to it's interrupted point of calamity and fix it.
Old Jan 3, 2009 | 08:44 AM
  #16  
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Yes I do. Here is what I found.

The Yellow battery wire peaked at 12.06 on contact and fluctuated anywhere from 10-12 while testing the connection. However when trying a second time I could not get a reading higher then 0.06??

The red accesory wire had no power.

The ground had no power.

The remote wire had no power.

All speaker wires ranged from 0.01 - 0.04 and would not stay steady.

Anything look off to you guys??
Old Jan 3, 2009 | 09:04 AM
  #17  
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Okay the reading of .006 the second time was because I blew a fuse so disregard that.
Old Jan 3, 2009 | 10:20 AM
  #18  
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Why did the fuse blow though? Could the reason it blew also be the reason your deck is blowing? Is it grounding somewhere?
Old Jan 3, 2009 | 12:54 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ryan12345
All speaker wires ranged from 0.01 - 0.04 and would not stay steady.
There shouldn't be any voltage in the speaker lines when the harness is unplugged . . .
Or are you measuring impedance? If the impedance is 0.01 -0.04 ohm - you've got a short in your wires somewhere.
Old Jan 3, 2009 | 01:25 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by maltesechicken
There shouldn't be any voltage in the speaker lines when the harness is unplugged . . .
Or are you measuring impedance? If the impedance is 0.01 -0.04 ohm - you've got a short in your wires somewhere.
No I was not measuring impedance. The harness was plugged in to the factory wires but there was no HU in and the car was off. So my problem is the fact that the speaker wires have power flowing through them then? Which leads me again to the question of why does my factory HU work perfectly? Thanks for the help guys this is one confusing problem.



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