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Install of Bazooka Cannon (Marine)
Hi,
I'm very much new to installing mobile audio. Having said that, I have a boat with a Kenwood head unit powering 4 relatively competent marine speakers. I'm thinking of installing a Marine Bazooka Bass Cannon to give the system a bit more Oomph, although I really don't want to go overboard. The one I was looking at was the MBT8014: http://www.bazooka.com/products/marine/Passive-Bass-Tubes-Subwoofers-C15/MB-Series-S84/MBT8014---Marine-8-inch-4-ohm-Passive-Tube-P109 (Note: Not allowed to post URL's for first 5 posts) Thing is, I'm unsure what a "Passive" tube means, although I'm guessing I need an amp to drive it (aka: there's not one built in). The install instructions suggest 2 bass cannons for a bowrider, but I want to start with just one and see what it sounds like. So.....what's the best way to go here? Buy the "Passive" tube and a marine amp (if necessary), or buy the more expensive "Active" tube (which seems to use less power, 100W vs. 150W) and just plug it in? If I go with the external amp, how do I size it so it properly drives the tube? Thanks. |
No opinions from anyone? Anyone have alternate suggestions?
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I personally would run 2 of the passive units with a 4 or 500wrms amp. In your case, a single tube with around 200wrms would do just fine
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Sounds like a good plan. The other thing I need to think of is whether I want to install a two battery system or just risk draining the one that I have now.
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i'm not too sure bout marine audio, but that kind of power wont hurt ur alternator too fast, but i would still bring another fully charged battery or a battery booster with you incase it does.
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The issue isn't so much the alternator as it's common to run marine audio for hours without the engine running. Usually, a deep cycle battery handles the task, although a second starter battery is wired to provide engine start power. Then there's a switch that routes the power for the systems from one battery or the other, or both. The thing is, do I want to run up my costs by installing this second deep cycle battery and associated switches?
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for that power dont worry about the alternator unless u drive a firefly with a 40amp alternator lmao.. and battery wise stick with 1. if i can run 3 hours straight full volume on 1000watts rms and still able to start my vehicle i think that u should be ok..
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Originally Posted by Hauger
(Post 591606)
The issue isn't so much the alternator as it's common to run marine audio for hours without the engine running. Usually, a deep cycle battery handles the task, although a second starter battery is wired to provide engine start power. Then there's a switch that routes the power for the systems from one battery or the other, or both. The thing is, do I want to run up my costs by installing this second deep cycle battery and associated switches?
Up to you tho..... HTH |
Originally Posted by danyman
(Post 591608)
for that power dont worry about the alternator unless u drive a firefly with a 40amp alternator lmao.. and battery wise stick with 1. if i can run 3 hours straight full volume on 1000watts rms and still able to start my vehicle i think that u should be ok..
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Run a second batt, cuss and spit at the switches if you want, but it will save your hiney Hauger lol
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