anybody? will probably do big 3 but that's about it.

 

The question as asked is almost unanswerable unless someone has the exact car and options and has a system that just barely exceeds that cars capability. Though a guess can be made if we know the alternators size...

 

2011 base ex 4 dr with nav,

100amp alternator, i think

 

With the big three and a sufficient gauge cable run to the amp you could get away with a 300-400w amp for your mids and tweets but the moment you turn your head and look at a subwoofer or an adequate amplifier for one your electrical system is going to keel over and die.

 

dont think it gets any better than this one tbh^^.
i had a stock saturn and ran 8-900 with minimal issues, But it was a rattle box with power nothing. Worst i had was a relay for the auto running lights had to get changed(lights never turned off was stuck in dummy mode lol).

 

About 1kW. Will you be competing, or is this just for music (ie: wont be driven to hell and back)

 

^^x2, usually around a kW can be handled by most oem systems under normal conditions and playing music. Remember that music uses much less power than a sine wave, and you won't need to use all your car's features at the same time (heater blower, defroster, headlights, etc...) and when you do need them, chances are you won't be playing your system at max output.

 

I have ~1300w in my Honda Fit. Added a secondary cell batt in the back and i have no dimming at all even at idle and playing loud.

I tryed with bass test and still no dimming.

 

daily driver

i was hoping to go with something like a JL HD 900/5

 

that'll work great...it's class d, so very efficient, and 900 watts rms with music won't be a problem.