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-   -   My First Install - Mounting/Securing The Gear (https://www.caraudioforumz.com/install-related-17/my-first-install-mounting-securing-gear-33782/)

datacat 01-15-2008 10:25 PM

My First Install - Mounting/Securing The Gear
 
So I've been planning my install for a few weeks now. It took awhile to get measurements in the trunk with this cold. I had the trunk popped one day it was really cold, I needed just a few quick measurements, when I closed my trunk the torque rod (rod that holds the trunk open) snapped cuz it was so cold. That was $40 at the wreckers.

Setup:

I'm using a 3/4" piece of floor board cut to 36" (L) x 16" (H). Another piece of 1/8" white laminate board ontop (to make it look nice :) The board is going to be mounted on the back seat using (4) 3/8" bolts for the top and (2) 3/8" bolts for the bottom. It's tough getting those measurements for the holes already in the frame and drilling exactly the same places on the board!

I want to mount it so the nuts are behind the board but I don't know if it will be possible to get at with a wrench. It would be better tho, make it harder for potential thieves. That is my goal here, to secure everything 99.9999% The board provides just enough space for the RF P400.4 and P325.1 and room on the side for the cap, if I decide to use it.

My box; Bassworx GPH210BK, though oversized and very f'n heavier than I expected (guessing 100lbs with subs) will fit very snug infront of the gear with a few inches for ventilation. I'm still planning how to mount the box to the board. I'm probably going to use steel "L-brackets" around each end But I don't want to drill through the trunk or much into the box.

I'll be taking some pictures of the install soon. I'm open to ANY suggestions how to mount my box either to the board, which is obviously very secure to the frame or any other ways to secure it from thieves. Thanks for reading my long rant :) Peace

http://dchosts.dyndns.org/cru/Photo_122607_001.jpg
http://dchosts.dyndns.org/cru/Photo_122607_002.jpg

Dukk 01-16-2008 02:41 PM

Take the back seat out for access to the other side of the framework.

zildjian_4 01-24-2008 07:05 PM

i get your idea of putting a board on the back of the seat. thats the same thing im doing. im going to inset the screws half way thru the mdf and then put little round 1/4 wood circle insert things(hard to explain in there. it will be covered in carpet so it will be hard to see them. as for mounting the box, i dont know man, will your seat be able to go forward?
if i was a thief id just unscrew the amps off the board if i couldnt get the board off lol.
one thing you could do, mount the amps to the board first, but use nuts and bolts, not screws, then mount the board. and then find away to mount that so its impossible to steal.

Audiophile72 01-30-2008 02:37 PM

You can also use security hex head screws for a little extra. A good thief (is there such a thing?) that jacks stereos for a living probably has the proper bits for them but it never hurts. You're average Joe won't be able to unscrew them.

datacat 01-30-2008 03:21 PM

I'll most likely have to take the back seat out. There's a lot more to this stuff than I thought...:\

zildjian_4: The whole idea for mounting the box to the board on the back seat is that it covers the whole amp "rack" Once I take out the back seat and get the board installed with amp(s) and then secure the box infront of the gear, you won't even be able to see the amps with the trunk open. The box is huge and just fits perfectly snug in the back area of the trunk. Once I do this, there's no way to steal the amps without somehow prying the box out. Hex bolts are still a good idea but my main issue is finding a way to securely mount the box in there so there is far less chance of anyone removing it to get at the amps.

My install has been delayed though. I decided to take back the P325.1 and go with the P600.1BD instead. It's about the same price where I'm looking and it will push my subs (600WRMS) to their max!! Only reason I bought the P325.1 is cuz it was on sale for a really good price and I planned to match it with lower RMS subs but then boxing day came and I got the more powerful subs for an unresistable price.

Thanks for the tips dudes.

rorybreaker 01-31-2008 12:04 AM

I always removed a sub/port/other part and used self tappers from the inside of the box. As for the amps a ton of clear silicone on the mounting face will usually beat a crowbar, if they get it it's broken.


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