Here's my problem.

I installed new Alpine Type S 4" Coaxial (SPS100A) in the front of my 93 Toyota 4x4 (see sig) and Alpine Type S 6.5" Coaxial (SPS170A) in the rear. I ran these off my Panasonic DPX95 and they sounded great with the volume at 35 (max40) before they would start to distort.

I adjusted the HU bass to -6 (-12/+12) and treble to +6 (-12/+12). After a couple days I upgraded the rears to Alpine Type R Coaxials (SPR174A) and ran them at the same settings and I could max out the volume at 40 with NO distortion. Beautiful.

Now the problem.
I upgraded (?) my HU to the Alpine CDA9833 since it boasts 26watts rms (V-Drive) looked better, and had the tilt function that I needed (those aren't the only reasons just some).

The speakers cut out (front and rear) when the volume gets to 22 and over time will even cut out at 20. I double checked my install and all looks good (IMO).

I want to go online and use the i-Personalize option and download my settings but the website doesn't have the CDA9833 listed yet. I am unfamialiar with setting the X-Over and Bass Focus.

Also my Solobaric L7 sounds painfully weak now. Even with the subwoofer setting maxed at +15 and my remote bass gain juiced all the way it doesn't have the output that my Panasonic HU put out with the sub setting at -6 (-12/+12) and the remote gain turned all the way down. Both HU claim 4volt Preouts and the same RCA's are being used.

Sorry for the long post but I wanted to try and cover all areas so some of the experienced ones here can give me the best advice. Tuning or Install wise.

Thanks in advance,
Joe

P.S. The Type R 6.5" Coaxials have a (sorta) crossover box included with them. Single pos/neg into the box and dual out. One set to the woofer and the other to the tweeter. I am also getting a flutter from the drivers front Type S 4" and a vibration from the passengers rear Type R 6.5". The Type R does this intermitently but the Type S front is fairly consistent at fluttering.

Once again sorry for the long winded post. I promise to produce a movie next time instead of writing the book. [img]graemlins/jawdrop.gif[/img]

 

i would say that if you have a proper power and ground supply
i would next disconnect one pair or the other to see if maybe the deck dosn't like the load
or it could be a heat issue
most decks are in a small enclosed area

 

Tried balance/fader to each speaker.

Tried disconnecting each one and running by itself and the other 16 configurations.

Removed deck and felt all around it and it was slightly warm to the touch. Definately not as warm as my Panasonic would occasionally get.

Any other suggestions ???

 

Lets examine your HU, to get 26 Wrms from this unit all the speaker connections are "Hot" in otherwords each and every channel is running a bridged pair of amplifiers.... and I suspect the 26 Wrms is into 4 ohms... did you check the wiring to the R6.5" speakers are any of the wires refrenced to ground (connected to ground)? if any speaker wire is connected to ground you are effectively shorting out part of the amplifier for that channel and it will eventually shut down... also your available power to the speaker is cut in half.... while the amplifier waits for thermal shutdown...

This flutter you mentioned.... when does it happen? When the engine is running or not?

You mentioned a partial crossover on the R6.5's, is it possible this may be defective? if all things check out your HU may actually be defective?

 

The speaker flutters whether the engine is running or not.

The HU is the Alpine CDA9833 and it features a "V-Drive" power amplifier which produces 26watts RMS x 4. The front Type S 4"coaxials are 25 watts RMS and the Type R 6.5" coaxials are 40 watts rms.

I assume it is a partial crossover since the "box" the single set of +/- go into, comes out in 2 sets of +/-. 1 set for the woofer and another for the tweeter. It doesn't seem to open without breaking the casing.

None of the speakers are grounded other than with the negative wire running from the HU alongside the corresponding positive lead. ie white/white with black stripe etc...

 

Sounds like a decent plan of attack. I will try it and let you know.

P.S.
I replaced the speaker with the flutter and other than eliminating the flutter it fixed nothing else.

I also swapped the HU for another CDA9833 and no such luck. It still kicks out at higher volume after a short time and even shorter when you reset it and run a couple notches lower volume until 16 is the highest volume level you can attain without it cutting out. It would probably cut out there as well if I ran it long enough to "overheat".

 

Still no go. I ran a 12awg power wire from the HU to the battery and it still cuts out anytime you go over 20 and after driving for 20 minutes it cut out at 20 also.

I sat in the driveway for 1 hour playing it at 20 and it ran fine until I tried to exceed 20.

I am extremely frustrated at this Alpine deck. It looks great, the features are awesome but the output isn't as good as my 6-7 year old Panasonic HU and the fact that it continually cuts out is making me pull my hair out.

The Alpine rep is going to be in the store tomorrow. Maybe I will get him to come out and tune/troubleshoot my problem.

If anyone has any other suggestions then fire away. I'm stumped.

 

i would bet that its a load issue
the deck may not like one or both pair of speakers it driving
p.s. ususally most sales reps know very little about the product they sell
they are not usually installers they are usually just sales people
i would try phoning alpine in canada and try and talk to there tech support people