Please help: I've got all kinds of problems
As I suggested before I would check/ change the factory ground before grounding the RCA's. Chrysler has had grounding issues for a long time. If your getting induced noise from the fan, It probably either runs with the harness for the factory deck or shares a groung with it. This is the most likely spot for the noise to enter. It shouldn't be the RCA's because they shouldn't be near the fan motor. If you've got the RE-Q it is best mounted in the rear with the amp so the shortest RCA's can be used(3ft.)
Well if you want to DIY, then start by redoing the grounds: Reground the battery to the chassis (You can pick up a pre-made 2awg wire from Crappy tire for cheap). Reground every other component - scrape off any paint from the body / chassis at the grounding point and bolt your wire down. Forget about the built in Chrysler ground wires - make new ones since it appears that Chrysler is known for ground issues.
Secondly - disprove the doofnut installer. Take a portable audio device (MP3 player, discman) and connect it straight to the RCA imputs, bypassing the factory stuff. If it still sounds like junk, then you know the problem isn't with the factory head unit.
Third - Do everything that you can to get it fixed by the shop - this is bad business. If you let them screw you, you are letting them screw other people after you. If they don't fix it, and keep blowing you off, post the name of the shop so people in AB will know to proceed with caution.
Secondly - disprove the doofnut installer. Take a portable audio device (MP3 player, discman) and connect it straight to the RCA imputs, bypassing the factory stuff. If it still sounds like junk, then you know the problem isn't with the factory head unit.
Third - Do everything that you can to get it fixed by the shop - this is bad business. If you let them screw you, you are letting them screw other people after you. If they don't fix it, and keep blowing you off, post the name of the shop so people in AB will know to proceed with caution.
I just did a search on the MTX TC 4004 . . . according to 2 websites, the 4004 has high-level inputs . . . If that is so, ditch the sven! Connect the highlevel outputs of your radio to the high level inputs of the MTX. The fewer items you have in the line, the fewer places that things can go wrong. Keep it simple, especially if the amp itself is capable of handling high level inputs. And if the amp requires a special harness - the shop should have given you all of the boxes etc which would also include the high-level harness (if not, you'll need to go back to the shop and demand that they give you the high level harness)
I think that the Sven could be a significant part of your problem (as noted by godzilla in the 3rd post above).
I think that the Sven could be a significant part of your problem (as noted by godzilla in the 3rd post above).
Last edited by maltesechicken; Sep 27, 2008 at 10:58 PM.
Hello Everyone:
After installing and testing the Re-Q I noticed the noise was not present when I turned the ignition key backward. However, with the key forward but without the car running the noise was present.
This got me thinking about pulling fuses to determine the cause. It turns out the "Heater Moter / AC" circuit was causing the noise. That is, with the key forward (car not running) noise was present. On pulling the fuse the noise was gone.
My question is: What can do about this?
After installing and testing the Re-Q I noticed the noise was not present when I turned the ignition key backward. However, with the key forward but without the car running the noise was present.
This got me thinking about pulling fuses to determine the cause. It turns out the "Heater Moter / AC" circuit was causing the noise. That is, with the key forward (car not running) noise was present. On pulling the fuse the noise was gone.
My question is: What can do about this?
I just did a search on the MTX TC 4004 . . . according to 2 websites, the 4004 has high-level inputs . . . If that is so, ditch the sven! Connect the highlevel outputs of your radio to the high level inputs of the MTX. The fewer items you have in the line, the fewer places that things can go wrong. Keep it simple, especially if the amp itself is capable of handling high level inputs. And if the amp requires a special harness - the shop should have given you all of the boxes etc which would also include the high-level harness (if not, you'll need to go back to the shop and demand that they give you the high level harness)
I think that the Sven could be a significant part of your problem (as noted by godzilla in the 3rd post above).
I think that the Sven could be a significant part of your problem (as noted by godzilla in the 3rd post above).
unfortunatly the high level inputs will not work with the amplified system. I've hooked them up that way before and the amps(mtx) overheat and go into protect. It still does it even if you only hook up one input lead.(which was MTX support's idea)It's something wierd with the high level is to high a signal for it to handle.I called MTX on it and they have no answer they said to find another way then. Besides if he ditches the RE-Q he will loose his roll off correction and trigger out put,and his AUX input.
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