Help choosing a sub?
I have a Crossfire VR1000D amp (1000wrms @ 1 ohm) that I would like to power a 10" sub.
I have a custom made box for a 10" sub that I would like to still use (0.75 cu ft)(can I cheat on this by adding pink insulation type stuff). Mounting depth is around 6", but it is slightly adjustable.
Can anyone suggest the best sub for the job? I'd like to stay around $300.
There are quite a few companies that all seem good, so I was hopiong some input from Beyonders might narrow the choices for me.
eD, RE, Adire, SI, ID....
What specs are the most important when comparing?
Efficiency (I have noticed cheaper subs are around 80dB, while more expensive ones go upwards of 100dB)
Freq response (what range would be considered 'good'?)
Any and all help would be appreciated, even where to actually buy once I choose a sub.
Thanks in advance!
[img]graemlins/headbang.gif[/img]
I have a custom made box for a 10" sub that I would like to still use (0.75 cu ft)(can I cheat on this by adding pink insulation type stuff). Mounting depth is around 6", but it is slightly adjustable.
Can anyone suggest the best sub for the job? I'd like to stay around $300.
There are quite a few companies that all seem good, so I was hopiong some input from Beyonders might narrow the choices for me.
eD, RE, Adire, SI, ID....
What specs are the most important when comparing?
Efficiency (I have noticed cheaper subs are around 80dB, while more expensive ones go upwards of 100dB)
Freq response (what range would be considered 'good'?)
Any and all help would be appreciated, even where to actually buy once I choose a sub.
Thanks in advance!
[img]graemlins/headbang.gif[/img]
Effeciency specs at 1khz mean very little when considering subbass.... generally a sub with a lower 1khz effeciency will play lower in a box of a given size.....
Id look for a sub that can handle the power and can play flat down to 35-40hz in that box.. might be a tough call because its so tiney...
IMO you might be better off ditching the box and finding something with a sub and box together... if you do use that box you might want to consider mounting the sub inverted..... infact you may have to with many of the larger 10s that have alot of depth...
Id look for a sub that can handle the power and can play flat down to 35-40hz in that box.. might be a tough call because its so tiney...
IMO you might be better off ditching the box and finding something with a sub and box together... if you do use that box you might want to consider mounting the sub inverted..... infact you may have to with many of the larger 10s that have alot of depth...
watch out for those efficiency ratings as they are measured differently by different manufacturers. If you have the thiel/small parameters you can use the calculator on:
http://www.bcae1.com/ to get a consistent and more accurate efficiency rating for different subs. Just go to the speaker section on the right hand side and scroll down. I have noticed that most high end/ good speakers have efficiency ratings in the 82-89 range using this calculator. Lots of ratings are "in-car" with the extra 6dB transfer function added to them to make them look like they are louder. Just do your homework.
http://www.bcae1.com/ to get a consistent and more accurate efficiency rating for different subs. Just go to the speaker section on the right hand side and scroll down. I have noticed that most high end/ good speakers have efficiency ratings in the 82-89 range using this calculator. Lots of ratings are "in-car" with the extra 6dB transfer function added to them to make them look like they are louder. Just do your homework.
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Jan 26, 2009 12:27 PM



