new to deadening
Thread Starter
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2
I'm new to the whole deading thing, never done it before, but the rattling in my doors from my midbasses (image dynamics 6.5 chameleons) is driving me crazy, i have looked at e designs deadening products, and i liek the price, and how they are said to perform. I am curious though as to which would be easier and more effective for deadening doors in a 1996 chevy tahoe 4 door. The liquid or one of the two mat products.
Also i need some help with the install so i was wonderign if anyone could send me any tutorials or links to deadining doors. thanks a bunch
Also i need some help with the install so i was wonderign if anyone could send me any tutorials or links to deadining doors. thanks a bunch
Guest
Posts: n/a
I find mat products to be best for the application you are going to use them in. I only use liquid damping for places where mats are impossible to use properly.
I know there are a bunch of pictures on www.b-quiet.com as well Tim has some on his site at www. in the Regal section.
I know there are a bunch of pictures on www.b-quiet.com as well Tim has some on his site at www. in the Regal section.
Originally posted by JohnVroom:
damping - yes there is such a thing
deadening - is a marketing term, I really do not know what it means (not an ASTM standard)
damping - yes there is such a thing
deadening - is a marketing term, I really do not know what it means (not an ASTM standard)
One major purpose of using matt in your doors is seperating the rear wave from the speaker from the front..
Yankee
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,599
Deadening is a generalised term that is potentially imprecise (and is intended in ad copy to think your car will be dead quiet or sonically inert). I understand the term but it really misleads the consumer to think "this is all I need" when a SINGLE product is only part of an overall acoustical solution.
Haunz you definition is essentially for attenuation
Sorry... pet peeve
Haunz you definition is essentially for attenuation
Sorry... pet peeve
Yankee
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,599
The Dynamat website posts freq response numbers of their product and it does very well in attenuating the low freq where it is applied. I am not recommending Dynamat over the competitors BTW though it is a very good product. You should attack the issues you have so if there is HF or Mid freq noise try stuff designed to work that frequency band.
Door rattles is your initial complaint and the Dynamat/ Brown Bread/ b-quiet/ cascade stuff should address that nicely. I am investigating some spray on products that dry semi rigid so they also should perform this task.
Door rattles is your initial complaint and the Dynamat/ Brown Bread/ b-quiet/ cascade stuff should address that nicely. I am investigating some spray on products that dry semi rigid so they also should perform this task.
Guest
Posts: n/a
And gettingrid of rattles is not the best way to use most damping materials. The best way to get rid of rattles is to prevent the offending parts from making contact with each other with the use of foam etc. In most of my cars I encased any doorlock and handle rods in a clear plastic tubing then folded a piece 3 inch open cell foam over the tube. That gets rid of half the rattles right there. In my Beetle I will be doing that to as many wiring harnesses behind the dash as well. There is a reason many well built cars come with foam over the factory wiring in the dash that must be slightly loose for access reasons.
