400 watts of low frequency power into 160 watt speakers?
07-11-2010, 05:11 PM
#1
0 Watt CAFz'r
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 4
400 watts of low frequency power into 160 watt speakers?
I have a pair of Focal Polyglass 690s. I need to amplify them, and the electronics engineer in me is getting a little creative.
What I want to do is send an additional 400 watts through a 50 Hz LPF (-6dB/octave dropoff) on top of the 100 watt power to counter the lower frequency roll off that these speakers naturally have. It won't be perfectly flat, but it'll be pretty friggin close all the way down to 50 Hz, maybe -8 or -9 dB drop at 30 Hz.
My only question is, will this damage my speakers? I'm sure they probably won't last as long, but I don't really care about that. I just wanna know if they can put out 30-50 Hz in-line without ripping. Whaddaya figure?
I probably should just get a subwoofer, but these speakers are pretty nice and tight, I think they can handle more power than they say.
http://www.orcadesign-test.com/wp-co...90CVX_spec.pdf
What I want to do is send an additional 400 watts through a 50 Hz LPF (-6dB/octave dropoff) on top of the 100 watt power to counter the lower frequency roll off that these speakers naturally have. It won't be perfectly flat, but it'll be pretty friggin close all the way down to 50 Hz, maybe -8 or -9 dB drop at 30 Hz.
My only question is, will this damage my speakers? I'm sure they probably won't last as long, but I don't really care about that. I just wanna know if they can put out 30-50 Hz in-line without ripping. Whaddaya figure?
I probably should just get a subwoofer, but these speakers are pretty nice and tight, I think they can handle more power than they say.
http://www.orcadesign-test.com/wp-co...90CVX_spec.pdf
Last edited by Eirhead; 07-11-2010 at 05:14 PM.
07-11-2010, 09:01 PM
#2
I would suggest you put your engineering to good use...educate yourself about speaker design first then get WinISD PRO beta from linearteam software and play with that scenario.. you can add low pass filter to counteract the roll off.. You will probably exceed your Xmax pretty quick with a fraction of the 400 watts you will have on tap.
07-12-2010, 11:21 AM
#3
Why wuoldnt you just run the speakers off the 400 watt amp and make equalizer adjustments? Or something along those lines. I dont think you can just throw another amp in parallel with your deack amp or whatever is powering your speakers right now. You would have to be sure the two amps were electrically isolated somehow. I dont think it would be feasable let alone worth your time to find out if you could do this when you can just turn up the bass **** and get the same effect if you run your amp full range.
07-12-2010, 03:57 PM
#5
No you cannot run 2 amps in parallel... each would look like a dead short to the other..
But what he wants to do is known speaker technology in active setups...especially mondern subwoofers... you equalize the rolloff. but remember 6 db of addedd power is 4x the power.. it ramps up pretty quick...
But what he wants to do is known speaker technology in active setups...especially mondern subwoofers... you equalize the rolloff. but remember 6 db of addedd power is 4x the power.. it ramps up pretty quick...
07-13-2010, 11:10 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 4
I realized some of the problems with my initial question shortly after making this thread.
What I'm planning on doing after I have the money saved up to do it properly, is running a 75 Hz LPF at 6db/oc on my 6X9s... maybe with a 50 Hz HPF too. (It's the rear wall speaker in my mini cooper)
Then the back of my backseat i'm converting into a sealed-fiberglass/upholstered sub bin for a 16" sub that is going to have a 25 Hz, 12dB/oc LPF on it.
I'm going to match the power ratings of my amps to my speakers so I don't do any damage. And I'll be buying a deck with 3 pre-outs and user-defined filtering and roll-offs so I can set everything before it's amped.
In the front doors I'm going to have 6" driver by the feet, 3.5" driver at stomach level, and tweeters at head level. As the frequency in the car drops to below 100 Hz, you feel it come in at the back, then as it drops to sub-sonic, it really kicks in in the far back.
I've done all the math and compared it to the roll offs of the speakers and such. I think I'm going to have a pretty flat sound all the way to 20 Hz
What I'm planning on doing after I have the money saved up to do it properly, is running a 75 Hz LPF at 6db/oc on my 6X9s... maybe with a 50 Hz HPF too. (It's the rear wall speaker in my mini cooper)
Then the back of my backseat i'm converting into a sealed-fiberglass/upholstered sub bin for a 16" sub that is going to have a 25 Hz, 12dB/oc LPF on it.
I'm going to match the power ratings of my amps to my speakers so I don't do any damage. And I'll be buying a deck with 3 pre-outs and user-defined filtering and roll-offs so I can set everything before it's amped.
In the front doors I'm going to have 6" driver by the feet, 3.5" driver at stomach level, and tweeters at head level. As the frequency in the car drops to below 100 Hz, you feel it come in at the back, then as it drops to sub-sonic, it really kicks in in the far back.
I've done all the math and compared it to the roll offs of the speakers and such. I think I'm going to have a pretty flat sound all the way to 20 Hz
Last edited by Eirhead; 07-13-2010 at 11:13 AM.
07-13-2010, 12:16 PM
#7
I realized some of the problems with my initial question shortly after making this thread.
What I'm planning on doing after I have the money saved up to do it properly, is running a 75 Hz LPF at 6db/oc on my 6X9s... maybe with a 50 Hz HPF too. (It's the rear wall speaker in my mini cooper)
**so these 6x9s will only handle 50 to 75 hz? why? this is very unusual..they probably have a -3db point around 75hz anyway.. give or take...I have never heard this done before...***
Then the back of my backseat i'm converting into a sealed-fiberglass/upholstered sub bin for a 16" sub that is going to have a 25 Hz, 12dB/oc LPF on it.
***hmmm LPF? so only frequncies below 25 hz will be fed to it? are you sure you dont mean a HPF? that is a big sub...are you doing SPL? what kind of sub is it? *****
I'm going to match the power ratings of my amps to my speakers so I don't do any damage. And I'll be buying a deck with 3 pre-outs and user-defined filtering and roll-offs so I can set everything before it's amped.
***the power rating of speakers vs amps is rather meaningless... you can blow a 150watt set of coaxes with a 50 watt amp and a 1000 watt sub will go beyond its Xmax and destroy itself mechanically at low frequencies before it burns the VC****
In the front doors I'm going to have 6" driver by the feet, 3.5" driver at stomach level, and tweeters at head level. As the frequency in the car drops to below 100 Hz, you feel it come in at the back, then as it drops to sub-sonic, it really kicks in in the far back.
*** 100Hz is still high cutoof for SQ...50-75 is the norm... Have you researched this sort of setup? what drivers are you going to use? have you been to some car audio competitions or simply meets to see what other people are doing? ***
I've done all the math and compared it to the roll offs of the speakers and such. I think I'm going to have a pretty flat sound all the way to 20 Hz
*****have you accounted for cabin gain?***
What I'm planning on doing after I have the money saved up to do it properly, is running a 75 Hz LPF at 6db/oc on my 6X9s... maybe with a 50 Hz HPF too. (It's the rear wall speaker in my mini cooper)
**so these 6x9s will only handle 50 to 75 hz? why? this is very unusual..they probably have a -3db point around 75hz anyway.. give or take...I have never heard this done before...***
Then the back of my backseat i'm converting into a sealed-fiberglass/upholstered sub bin for a 16" sub that is going to have a 25 Hz, 12dB/oc LPF on it.
***hmmm LPF? so only frequncies below 25 hz will be fed to it? are you sure you dont mean a HPF? that is a big sub...are you doing SPL? what kind of sub is it? *****
I'm going to match the power ratings of my amps to my speakers so I don't do any damage. And I'll be buying a deck with 3 pre-outs and user-defined filtering and roll-offs so I can set everything before it's amped.
***the power rating of speakers vs amps is rather meaningless... you can blow a 150watt set of coaxes with a 50 watt amp and a 1000 watt sub will go beyond its Xmax and destroy itself mechanically at low frequencies before it burns the VC****
In the front doors I'm going to have 6" driver by the feet, 3.5" driver at stomach level, and tweeters at head level. As the frequency in the car drops to below 100 Hz, you feel it come in at the back, then as it drops to sub-sonic, it really kicks in in the far back.
*** 100Hz is still high cutoof for SQ...50-75 is the norm... Have you researched this sort of setup? what drivers are you going to use? have you been to some car audio competitions or simply meets to see what other people are doing? ***
I've done all the math and compared it to the roll offs of the speakers and such. I think I'm going to have a pretty flat sound all the way to 20 Hz
*****have you accounted for cabin gain?***
and do take a look at some car audio sites..
may I suggest this as a start
http://www.caraudiobook.com/
and more specifically at:
http://www.caraudiobook.com/car_audio_cabin_gain/car_audio_cabin_gain.htm
these are good sites too...there are tons others too.
http://dls.se/econtent/89
http://www.cdtaudio.com/choosing_woofers_08.htm
07-13-2010, 04:20 PM
#10
