you bought a precooked sub, kinda like from subway! To roughly set your amp once the new sub is in the box, your deck has a 4v pre out "probally 2.5v rms" so set the gain on your amp accordingly (usually minimum gain on the amp is the recomended setting for a 4-6v rms preout) so between 1/4 and 1/3 gain shouldnt hurt. set your subsonic filter "if available" to around 25hz and bassboost should be used sparingly as it boosts output in a certain range which may provide distortion which you dont want.

without the sub playing, turn your deck volume up to a maximum "clean" listening level, you want to be sure the sub isnt drowning out distortion in your vocal section.

Set the sub level at "0" being your maximum sub level then then turn up the volume toward your maximum listening level and pay attention to how the sub is playing. If you reach maximum listening level and your sub seems to be strugling "fluttering, playing distorted at certain notes, or all notes" try turning the amp gain down a touch or raise the cut-off frequency of the subsonic filter if its the really low notes that are hurting.

I find that for listening, the lpf or low pass filter is best set around the 80hz range as it makes the signal slope off gently from the 60hz range toward the 80hz which is best suited to your mid bass section .

Some of this may confuse you a bit, just take one thing at a time and you will understand better once you begin to set it all up.

thanks for all your help everyone. Eventually ill get there. :P however, anyone able to reccomend a decent SQ sub that can pound a little louder? Not that i really need it. Im just curious to whats out there, price ranges, etc etc.

I love the w3's clarity. and to me at least, it hits pretty dang hard. more than my extended cab truck really needs. BUT. If i were to upgrade ... where abouts would i be looking?

All depends on your budget.

well, im not too worried about budget, but, if this w3 doesnt work out, which im sure it most likely will be fine. Whats something near its price range, that can handle a little better power, while not getting rid of sq?.


for example


Right now im running a 12" phoenix gold tantrum (couldnt tell you the rest about it, as i didnt purchase it, and its not mine, just borrowing it) and the difference is HUGE. My w3 was clear, it didnt blend together sounds, it could handle a bass guitar with a melting solo, and still pump out the drums without problem. and it sounded deep, and heavy. No matter what volume.

This PG, seems very, quiet, hollow, and just doesnt sound right to the rest of the sound system. It almost seems out of place. everything in my truck has decent SQ, until the PG starts hitting :P

Im not in a hurry to replace the W3, if even at all. i was thinking more along the lines of, IF i end up blowing it again (as it wont be on warrenty the second time around) what would be a good 12" sub, that will pump out a little more volume than the w3? preferably in the 350$ or lower range.if there is even such a thing.

The only other requirement, is the specs for the box cant be too much deeper than the w3, as the w3 is already pushing the seat up to pretty much, the maximum amount i am willing to sacrifice. (unless i were to move it back to the passenger side, cause who cares about them :P)

What is the chance the W3 is making contact with the back of the seat? That spells guaranteed death for a sub.

none, its facing the the rear of the truck. not pointing into the seat.

And i have removed the rear fold down seat on that side, which leaves a lip about 4" from the wall, that the box cant go. so... the sub would have to travel at least 4 inches out of the box in order to hit it.

edit: also in the fluke chance something slides between the sub and rear wall, im planning to get a grill for the subwoofer, just to eliminate any worry of damaging the speaker.

second edit... also.. if i were to build a new box for it. how should i position the sub? keep it facing the back, with the port on the top? or?

right now i dont like how its designed, the sub faces the back, witha side slot port also facing the back. and thats causing it to push most of the air against the wall, which has a 3" (roughly) in diameter hole to run wires through, which is causing a lot of port noise. which isnt very desirable.

i can upload pictures if im not being very clear on how its setup.

Sage advice.

lol, i already said i'm talking specifically from clipping and distortion killing it.

technically it is overpowering when you are sending a clipped signal to a sub, but it most often occurs with an under powered setup. i should have just clarified it better at first:P with an overpowered amp you are more likely going to reach the mechanical limits of the sub before you are going to begin to clip severely enough to damage it.
obviously if you are sending a clean signal with a underpowered amp, it will have no issues.
and i stand by that many many people damage their subs with an underpowered amp sending huge distorted power than by having a overpowered amp. ...unless that overpowered amp is set wrong...then its just a lose lose. and i originally said easier because listening to a sub, its is much harder to discern clipping and distortion than it is too see/hear if your sub has reached its mechanical limits. meaning it goes unchecked more often than the latter.

Buy a W6. It's worth the extra cash, and will still match the rest of your system. Also I've found that if you play the tuning frequency for too long they get toasty quick due to the lack of movement.

i agree, a definite step up and worth the cash.