Buzzing noise..seems to be a common problem
#11
Something good to do is to grab a multimeter with the car running. Check the battery for any AC voltage. Also, check another point in the system that runs on DC for AC voltage. It could be a blown rectifier on your alternator. My g/f's dad had this problem along with abnormally high battery voltage and an AC charge in his battery. He only noticed anything because the voltage gauge on his Safari was running up and down, and therefore his van was having trouble starting. Any of those symptoms coming up as well?
#12
what does a rectifier look like.
There was a Cylinder shaped thing with a wire coming out of one end of the cylinder on the back of my alternator that what broken. the wire was corroded off. I soddered it back on. and put it back on the alternator. could this be the cause of the noise?
There was a Cylinder shaped thing with a wire coming out of one end of the cylinder on the back of my alternator that what broken. the wire was corroded off. I soddered it back on. and put it back on the alternator. could this be the cause of the noise?
#13
The rectifier is basically a set of diodes. That could be it, but I wouldnt be able to tell you without looking at it. Most now are built into the back of the alternator, but other ones take different shapes. Look on it to see if either end is labelled A, C, Anode or Cathode, or if the word "diode" is anywhere on it.
#14
I remember years ago, some noise problems were radiated (from computer modules), while many were ground-loop problems. We used to make sure that the chassis of the amplifier was not being grounded at all, and many times that meant having the amp mounted to a piece of MDF, and not screwed to the vehicle's body.
For radiated noise, I made a sniffer from an old cassette walk-man (detach the head and extend the wiring on a stick or probe of some sort). This would allow to find noise being radiated from switching power supplies in modules, and you'd be surprised where else.
As your noise is a remnant of AC being leaked into your system somewhere, that's a good place to start. But this thread is over a month old, and you may have found the problem already.
For radiated noise, I made a sniffer from an old cassette walk-man (detach the head and extend the wiring on a stick or probe of some sort). This would allow to find noise being radiated from switching power supplies in modules, and you'd be surprised where else.
As your noise is a remnant of AC being leaked into your system somewhere, that's a good place to start. But this thread is over a month old, and you may have found the problem already.
#15
No I haven't fixed the problem yet. I haven't had the time. I've just been driving without the radio on or I crank it so I can't hear it. The amp is mounted the bed on my truck through carpet. I'll take out the screws and try it. Unfortunatly my amps are under the bench seat I have in the back of my truck. I don't know if theres enough room under there to put mdf under my amp. thanks for the tips.
#16
#18
Well, it's all a process of elimination. If you can find the source of noise, then at least you have a chance to tackle the problem (but they aren't always fixable without an equipment change).
1) Start with the deck. Remove it from the dash and disconnect the antenna. Make sure that only source of grounding is a wire run to the chassis of your car (if this is a subframe member, make sure it's solidly bonded to the car). See if that helps. If not, move on.
2) Make sure all grounds are solid. Engine block to chassis, chassis to battery, amp to chassis (or also battery if applicable).
3)Turn amp gains to minimum. If problem disappears entirely, try re-tuning amp-deck levels.
Years ago, car audio components were not always the best engineered with the best isolation of signal and power supply, and noise was a common and sometimes frustrating problem, but there was always a solution (sometimes it meant equipment change). I've been out of car audio for so long now, that many new manufacturers and models are unknown to me, but the process for problem solving is still the same.
1) Start with the deck. Remove it from the dash and disconnect the antenna. Make sure that only source of grounding is a wire run to the chassis of your car (if this is a subframe member, make sure it's solidly bonded to the car). See if that helps. If not, move on.
2) Make sure all grounds are solid. Engine block to chassis, chassis to battery, amp to chassis (or also battery if applicable).
3)Turn amp gains to minimum. If problem disappears entirely, try re-tuning amp-deck levels.
Years ago, car audio components were not always the best engineered with the best isolation of signal and power supply, and noise was a common and sometimes frustrating problem, but there was always a solution (sometimes it meant equipment change). I've been out of car audio for so long now, that many new manufacturers and models are unknown to me, but the process for problem solving is still the same.
#20
Hey man,
Did you ever figure fix your noise problems. I have the same problem.
2006 F250 Diesel
Sub..........no noise
Components running on RFosgate amp.......buzz in woofers and static in tweeters.
Pioneer head unit.
Sounds clean when engine is off. When I turn the key there is a sound under the hood, fuel pump or something, and I can hear it in the speakers too. Then at an idle there is a constant buzzing.
I'm 90% sure its coming from the head unit. Don't know what else to do.
Did you ever figure fix your noise problems. I have the same problem.
2006 F250 Diesel
Sub..........no noise
Components running on RFosgate amp.......buzz in woofers and static in tweeters.
Pioneer head unit.
Sounds clean when engine is off. When I turn the key there is a sound under the hood, fuel pump or something, and I can hear it in the speakers too. Then at an idle there is a constant buzzing.
I'm 90% sure its coming from the head unit. Don't know what else to do.