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Clipping, Power and Voice Coil Damage

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Old 02-04-2009, 05:28 PM
  #31  
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Damaging Woofers:
When a woofer is driven with a high powered amplifier to high levels, there will be a significant amount of current flowing through the voice coil. Since the voice coil has resistance, there is a voltage drop across the speaker's voice coil (which the amplifier appreciates greatly :-). This means that there may be a great amount of power being dissipated (in the form of heat) in the voice coil. When a speaker is driven with lots of clean power, the cone moves a great deal (in proportion to the output voltage from the amplifier). For speakers with vented pole pieces (or other types of venting), this movement forces a lot of air to flow in the magnetic gap (area where the voice coil rides). When the woofer moves out of the basket, the chamber that's under the dust cap and around the voice coil expands (increases in volume) which pulls cool air into the magnetic gap. When the woofer moves the other direction, the chamber size is reduced and the hot air is forced out of the vent in the pole piece. This air flow cools the voice coil. If a relatively low powered amplifier is driven into clipping (to a full square wave for a lot of people), a relatively large portion of the time, the voltage delivered to the voice coil no longer resembles a sine wave as it would with an unclipped signal. While the amplifier's output is clipped, the voice coil is not being motivated to move as far as it should for the power that's being delivered to it and therefore is likely not being cooled sufficiently (since the speaker is driven by a linear motor, the voltage applied to the voice coil determines how far the voice coil moves from its point of rest). ... Remember that during the clipped portion of the waveform current is still flowing through the voice coil. Since the displacement of the voice coil (and therefore the airflow around the voice coil) is no longer proportional to the heat being generated, the voice coil can overheat. This excess heat may cause the voice coil former to be physically distorted and/or melt the insulation off of the voice coil wire and/or cause the adhesives to fail (especially if the speaker is rated to handle no more than the power that the amp can produce cleanly). If your speakers are rated (honestly) to handle the maximum 'clean' power that your amplifier can produce, slight clipping isn't generally a problem. Severe clipping is more likely to cause a problem.
http://http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm
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Old 02-04-2009, 06:20 PM
  #32  
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Sorry Ryannow.. BCAE is a pretty good site for learning the basics but it's pretty mickey mouse; and hardley material I'd reference..

The fact is that even if you send square wave to a speaker the cone is still going to move in a sinusoidal fasion... First consider that 67% of any additional power gained by clipping the signal is going to be at the fundamental.. The rest of the power will be in odd order harmonics which are sinewaves superimposed on top of the fundamental. The higher the harmonic the less energy is present and at some point the inductance of the driver will start to filter out these higher frequencies too..

The bottom line is that a clipped wave will not cause a speaker's cone to 'hang' as you are trying to suggest..




I'd also add that as far as I am concearned I think that many people worry too much about clipping damaging thier speakers/subs.. if it sounds distorted turn it down.. and frankley if a bit of distortion is going to send your drivers over the edge then it was probably going to happen sooner or later anyway..

Last edited by Haunz; 02-04-2009 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 02-04-2009, 07:21 PM
  #33  
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hey, its deffinately a lot better than wikipedia. i'm not trying to suggest the speaker is going to hang. the signal does tho. i'm just trying to say that a clipped signal will cause the speaker to build up excess heat. and that's where damage can come from.
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Old 02-04-2009, 11:40 PM
  #34  
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The signal really doesn't hang either.. and what is interesting is that there are two types of clipping modes an amplifier can go through.. but, the main point I like to drive home is that your average amp cannot produce more then about 30% it's rated output at nominal load without an ungodly amount of distortion...

If 30% more power is going to cause your speakers to blow then listening for 2x as long as normal will also spell certain death.. point being the drivers are quite likely not going to last..
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Old 02-05-2009, 10:47 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ryannow
hey, its deffinately a lot better than wikipedia. i'm not trying to suggest the speaker is going to hang. the signal does tho. i'm just trying to say that a clipped signal will cause the speaker to build up excess heat. and that's where damage can come from.

How about this one then? I'm not very good at explaining stuff but this one is very straigh forward.


http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/forums/lofiversion/index.php/t77525.html
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Old 02-06-2009, 04:52 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Haunz
Sorry Ryannow.. BCAE is a pretty good site for learning the basics but it's pretty mickey mouse; and hardley material I'd reference..

The fact is that even if you send square wave to a speaker the cone is still going to move in a sinusoidal fasion... First consider that 67% of any additional power gained by clipping the signal is going to be at the fundamental.. The rest of the power will be in odd order harmonics which are sinewaves superimposed on top of the fundamental. The higher the harmonic the less energy is present and at some point the inductance of the driver will start to filter out these higher frequencies too..

The bottom line is that a clipped wave will not cause a speaker's cone to 'hang' as you are trying to suggest..

I'd also add that as far as I am concearned I think that many people worry too much about clipping damaging thier speakers/subs.. if it sounds distorted turn it down.. and frankley if a bit of distortion is going to send your drivers over the edge then it was probably going to happen sooner or later anyway..
Well put. Sums it all up nicely. In case anyone was wondering, tweeters are particularly prone to damage because they have a low inductance and the harmonics generated by clipping distortion are always higher in frequency than the fundamental. They sound particularly harsh because they are odd order harmonics which our brains percieve to be nasty. Even order harmonics are the "warm" sounding ones (tube amps generate these). Thermal limits and power limits reference the same thing. The standard rating for power limit is usually derived differently for tweeters and subs. Subs have a maximum average power limit and tweeters often have a maximum recommended amplifier size (when considering a music program).
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Old 02-06-2009, 04:55 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by ryannow
answer me this: how does presenting an arbitrary driver that is rated for and can handle100wrms with a clipped signal of 30w justify overpowering it? that doesn't even make sense. at the point where the signal is clipped, there is still a large amount power moving through the voice coil, but little to no cone movement. if the cone was moving in the normal sine wave motion at this point (ie. with a better amp), it would be able to withstand the power, but since it has halted at this point, the heat cannot be given off.
The tweeter in the above example is unlikely capable of dissipating 100 watts, even though it says so. The rating is for amplifier/speaker matching and is not a true power rating.
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Old 02-06-2009, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 420guy
I always thought...<snip>

I have had speakers running well past their power ratings for years with no problems. Over powering is a sympton not a cause. If I am wrong please learn me. LOL
Heating comes from the power dissipation. It is possible to drive more power into a speaker than it's rated handling, but the average power dissipation mustn't be exceeded. In other words it must be given time to cool between beats, explosions or whatever.

On a side note, did you ever measure the power you drove your speakers with or were you relying on amplifier power ratings to determine it?
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Old 02-06-2009, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Blu
I'm confused by this. My understanding is that a simple first order passive crossover consisting of a capacitor in series with a tweeter would block any DC from passing. Is this not correct?
Yes this is correct.
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Old 02-06-2009, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by kevmurray
Heating comes from the power dissipation. It is possible to drive more power into a speaker than it's rated handling, but the average power dissipation mustn't be exceeded. In other words it must be given time to cool between beats, explosions or whatever.

On a side note, did you ever measure the power you drove your speakers with or were you relying on amplifier power ratings to determine it?
Never measured it before. Example right now I have a set of JL VR650CSi components running through the passive xover. Each xover is getting 230wrms from a bridged Memphis 4ch. JL recommends 15-60 wrms. They sound awesome and no distortion. Mind you gains are set properly, so that has a lot to do with it, I also know they are grossly overpowered and listen for any distortion and turn it down if needed.
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