Main power switch ?? - NOT remote wire
#11
Hey if your still looking for a switch to to put inline to disconnect your cap then check out these options. Not exactly meant for car stereo more for drag racing but they should serve your needs.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_754068_-1_10409
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_745298_-1_10367
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_754068_-1_10409
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_745298_-1_10367
#12
Go to an electrical wholesalers and get a 100amp solid state relay with a 12-vdc coil. This way you can hook up a switch to turn it on, even your remote wire, as it only takes mA's to exite the coil. Its about the size of a deck of cards and will work nicely imo.
#14
Noffence, but do You guys think my toiletpaper is made out of money?? thanks for all the suggestions but the solid state relay its not prepared for 4 gauge wire and i have no idea how it supose to work as there is no swith (if its controlled by current flow it wont turn off as the cap is draining the battery), the switch for drug racing is more expensive than a new cap, and i dont think the "specialists" that will charge me $60/h or more will tell me anything more than i already know (they will probably suggest changing the cap + the labour fee). thanks for all the suggestions but im curently a student and all the extra $$ is usually going for booze :] so im just looking for the cheapest way to solve my problem and wiltshire559 solution of simply putting a $15 breaker seems perfect. again thanx to all of you for help, and im think the thread can be closed as the main question was answered :]
P.S. if anybody can just tell me what is that control "****" on the caps circuit board and what it does before closing the thread ill be very grateful. Thanks to all of you again for fast replay ...cheers
P.S. if anybody can just tell me what is that control "****" on the caps circuit board and what it does before closing the thread ill be very grateful. Thanks to all of you again for fast replay ...cheers
#15
I've been waiting this whole thread for you to say this, Car audio costs $. just like everything else. you gotta pay to play.
stop pissing $ away and save for stuff. Or sell the stereo and **** that away too.
get tired of the after a while, Kids want a huge stereo, but don't want to spend$ on batts, cable or a nice HO alt.
your stock stuff is only gonna take you so far.
stop pissing $ away and save for stuff. Or sell the stereo and **** that away too.
get tired of the after a while, Kids want a huge stereo, but don't want to spend$ on batts, cable or a nice HO alt.
your stock stuff is only gonna take you so far.
Last edited by CanadianBronco; 12-06-2007 at 06:42 PM.
#17
dude, i dont care to have biiiig system in my car to show it off or go to competitions- i bought one 12" sub with about 1000W just to have bass in a car and i got the whole system for less then 1g (pioneer Pioneer DEH-P780MP
deck, visonik Visonik VXD709, with 12" competition sub i dont remeber the number - close to 1200 peak/600W rms) i just like full spectrum of sound and the qulity from this deck is awesome i dont need anything else and lately i have a problem with wiring (yes i did it myself and it was working just fine, no problems, and i saved looots of money on actualy learning and doing it myslef rather than spending close to 400$ just on installing it) and yes im in the university now and im not blowing my money away on booze(a joke-im not an alcoholic)- if you have to pay for everything yourself there is no much left. soo sry for "not keeping it real".
ill repeat the last question- what is that control "****" on the caps circuit board and what it does?
Thank you for all the help. LaZy
deck, visonik Visonik VXD709, with 12" competition sub i dont remeber the number - close to 1200 peak/600W rms) i just like full spectrum of sound and the qulity from this deck is awesome i dont need anything else and lately i have a problem with wiring (yes i did it myself and it was working just fine, no problems, and i saved looots of money on actualy learning and doing it myslef rather than spending close to 400$ just on installing it) and yes im in the university now and im not blowing my money away on booze(a joke-im not an alcoholic)- if you have to pay for everything yourself there is no much left. soo sry for "not keeping it real".
ill repeat the last question- what is that control "****" on the caps circuit board and what it does?
Thank you for all the help. LaZy
#18
my caps have a fine adjustment for the voltage display. I have 2 caps and never had the battery go dead in the last 18 months. I've left it for a week at the most.
the big 3 that was mentioned is adding to or replacing the 3 main electrical wires in your car. This is to prevent voltage drop.
1. Engine or Alternator body to chassis.
2. Chassis to negative battery.
3. Alternator + to battery positive.
do this with the biggest wire you can fit or afford.
#19
thanks Tom.F.1, that i can do ;] just after finals and thats this week :] too bad i already ordered the breaker.....but i guess i can use it just in case this wont work out for me :]...thnx again
LaZy
LaZy