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Old 05-22-2009, 09:21 AM
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Multiple batteries vs CAP

O.K. CAP haters.... lol. How many batteries does one need to have, to get to 14.4 volts and stay around there? 2,3,4- 8? Or is it just a matter of controlling the charge? Someone please share they're battery experience about voltage draw with me. I want closer to 14.4 only have 13.7 max right now with huge draws. Even with my 200 amp alt my JBL shuts down due to voltage drop at engine idle. I've seen below 11v with heavy bass.

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Old 05-22-2009, 11:40 AM
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whoa, below 11 is pretty low. well all i can say is it should be related to the amount of power you have. from what i've picked up talking to people it seems that most people who run over, or maybe around, yeah i'll say around 1500 rms watts use 1 battery, but i remember at the last show i went to i got a peek of bart pyle's van and there were i think 4 batteries, maybe more.

i on the other hand only runn about 600 rms but my headlights used to dim a lot, so i ended up changing my only battery, and it did wonders, so that might also be a problem. it could be that it just doesn't hold a charge any more, so when your van idles and the battery needs to pick up the slack there just might not be enough juice to quench the thirst, you know?

but then again i'm a novice at this whole extra battery thing, so there might be some expert guys who come and say i'm a moron, so take what i say with a grain of salt
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Old 05-22-2009, 11:52 AM
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I seen Barts Astro also. What I'm trying to know is, if I add a cap with the proper # of farad to a good battery I get 14.4-.5 volts. How do I get 14.4 or so with batteries and no cap?
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Old 05-22-2009, 11:56 AM
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your max voltage when the car is running is 13.7 volts ?

most batteries rest at 12.4 - 12.9 volts, anything above that comes from the alt.

you can add all the 12 volt batteries you want and you wont get to 14.4 volts with out your alt. creating that voltage.

so if your peak voltage is 13.7 you need to look into why it is there.... it could be preprogramed in the cars computer to charge at that... in which case a MLA module may be the sollution for you. Or it could be the alt.s voltage regulator is set to that, or it could be a wiring / ground issue.
Depending on the alt. design it could also be an issue with what RPM the alt makes its power at. some cheap alt's that claim 200 amps will not produce that untill 4000 RPM. if this is the case a smaller alt. pulley may help.

As far as why your amp shutting down..... what do you have for batteries?

What about your wiring, What size is it, is it grounded properly?

There are alot of things to look into......
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Old 05-22-2009, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by testtones
your max voltage when the car is running is 13.7 volts ?

most batteries rest at 12.4 - 12.9 volts, anything above that comes from the alt.

you can add all the 12 volt batteries you want and you wont get to 14.4 volts with out your alt. creating that voltage.

so if your peak voltage is 13.7 you need to look into why it is there.... it could be preprogramed in the cars computer to charge at that... in which case a MLA module may be the sollution for you. Or it could be the alt.s voltage regulator is set to that, or it could be a wiring / ground issue.
Depending on the alt. design it could also be an issue with what RPM the alt makes its power at. some cheap alt's that claim 200 amps will not produce that untill 4000 RPM. if this is the case a smaller alt. pulley may help.

As far as why your amp shutting down..... what do you have for batteries?

What about your wiring, What size is it, is it grounded properly?

There are alot of things to look into......
O.K.

Battery - Biggest Crapy tire spiral cell they sell.

Power/ ground - all 2ga. Big 3 in 2 ga

Alt puts out approx. 57 amps @ 700 RPM - produces 200 amps around 3800 rpm.

Maybe this is normal for big amps. Maybe I should be turning radio down at lights or idle.... I'm a when it comes to this power range. I'm heavy on the volume ****. Don't play below 60% often, unless the kids are in the van. Then I have no problems with current draw at all.

I know I need to address the draw issues before I try to stay around 14.4. I just need to know how to get 14.4. Is there a charge controller? My voltage regulator is built into my alt. Alt was built by Power House Alternators and the guy (Jay) who builds them does this for local audio guys all the time.

Would upgrading to 0ga be more beneficial than upgrading the battery. The batt works fine other than with huge draws. It starts van easily, and I can listen to radio at lower levels without any big problems. This is just when I turn it up.
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Old 05-22-2009, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by N130Gv2
O.K.

Battery - Biggest Crapy tire spiral cell they sell.

Power/ ground - all 2ga. Big 3 in 2 ga

Alt puts out approx. 57 amps @ 700 RPM - produces 200 amps around 3800 rpm.

Maybe this is normal for big amps. Maybe I should be turning radio down at lights or idle.... I'm a when it comes to this power range. I'm heavy on the volume ****. Don't play below 60% often, unless the kids are in the van. Then I have no problems with current draw at all.

I know I need to address the draw issues before I try to stay around 14.4. I just need to know how to get 14.4. Is there a charge controller? My voltage regulator is built into my alt. Alt was built by Power House Alternators and the guy (Jay) who builds them does this for local audio guys all the time.

Would upgrading to 0ga be more beneficial than upgrading the battery. The batt works fine other than with huge draws. It starts van easily, and I can listen to radio at lower levels without any big problems. This is just when I turn it up.
The alt is a big part of the problem, when you are idleing it is giving you around 60 amps, but your amp may be drawing as much as a couple hundred amps peak ( not a constant draw).

You need an alt that will create the amperage at a much lower RPM, that one will really only help you if you are reving the crap outta your car.

A smaller pulley may help a bit, but it is unlikely it would make much more than 10 - 15 amps difference at idle..... still way to little amperage.

The addition of another GOOD battery will likely be needed as well, but you need to get a better alt. first or you will just end up with 2 dead batteries.

Just upgrading the wire size will not replace another battery.
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Old 05-22-2009, 12:43 PM
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O.K. I just rechecked all voltages.

Engine off - 12.54v

Engine at idle (700 rpm) - 13.31 THIS IS LOWER THAN THE FACTORY SETTING!!

Engine at 4000 rpm - 13.33

Isn't having an alternator that puts out 200 amps at say 2000 rpm going to damage something when I drive with the kids and have it turned down? Looks like I should invest in a better front battery. I've been beating on this one for over a year. This is no comp vehicle, more of a run around town van.

I wonder if Power House (Jay) can adjust the charge peak to be closer to 13.8ish. Would this damage anything?
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Old 05-22-2009, 02:58 PM
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i would think your alt maybe goes byby alt's make 14.4
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Old 05-22-2009, 03:10 PM
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Just checked mine.... with the wires attached there is 13.36 @ idle on the alternator output post. It's only 1.5 months old.
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Old 05-22-2009, 03:50 PM
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the voltage is controled by a regulator I'm not sure if yours is controled by the ecu or not, you may be able to use a different regulator or an MLA module to up the voltage. But increasing the voltage really wont make up for the crappy low RPM charge amperage that alt makes.

That IS NOT a good alt. for what you want it to do.

Like I said earlier if getting a better alt is not an option then you will be able to get a bit better low RPM charge with a smaller pulley, I don't think it is really enough to make a big difference though.
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