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Quick DVC Sub/Amp Combo Question

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Old 09-07-2012, 10:18 AM
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Quick DVC Sub/Amp Combo Question

Hey guys melted my JL 10w3v2s so looking for some proper replacements.

Have an Alpine MRP-M1000 mono block sopecs below:

» mono subwoofer car amplifier
» 600 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (1,000 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms)

Looking for a recommendation on which way I should go for 2 10 inch DVC subs so my amp sees 2ohms on the one channel.

So essentially i THINK I need 2 500W RMS Subs, but do I need 2ohm or 4 ohm or 1ohm subs?

I know i can hook the DVC coils in parrallel to get a 4ohm to 2ohm but 2 subs in series means the Amp will see a 4 ohm load no?

Do I need 2 2ohm subs with the coils connected in parrallel and then the two subs connected in series so the amp sees a 2 ohm load?

Maybe I am overthinking this? LOL

Any help would be awesome

Thanks!
Derek
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:39 AM
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Think I got a better understanding with this chart lol does this make sense?

Attached Thumbnails Quick DVC Sub/Amp Combo Question-capture.jpg  
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:45 AM
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You're not over thinking it. As far as I can tell, you're right on all accounts.
Do I need 2 2ohm (DVC) subs with the coils connected in parallel and then the two subs connected in series so the amp sees a 2 ohm load?
The above setup would work. Or, your other option would be two 4ohm Single Voice Coil subs, wired in parallel to drop the load the 2ohm.

Either would get you the 2 ohm load. And aside from slightly different wiring, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference on the final product.
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Old 09-08-2012, 02:27 PM
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Thanks for the reply! one more quick question.

Would you go for the 4ohm or 2ohm setup based on the way the subs are made?

Will the 2ohms be more beefier than say a 4ohm sub? Reason I ask is I melted the wires going from the coils to the connectors but that was on my JL 10W3v2s or could it possibly be they were too under powered and over worked?

Looking at the
Alpine SWS-10D2 or
Alpine SWS-10D4

As replacements. Specs below



10" Dual 4-Ohm Type-S Series Car Subwoofer
Power Handling:
Peak: 1000 watts
RMS: 500 watts
Impedance: Dual 4 ohms
Kevlar reinforced cone
HAMR performance surround
Progressive spider for reliable and consistent control
FEA Optimized Dual-Sided CRC Motor Structure
CEA-2031 compliant
2.5" Voice Coil
64 oz. magnet motor structure
Frequency response: 28-200 Hz
Resonance Frequency (Fs): 35 Hz
Top-mount depth: 5-9/16"


10" Dual 2-Ohm Type-S Series Car Subwoofer
Power Handling:
Peak: 1500 watts
RMS: 500 watts
Impedance: Dual 2 ohms
Kevlar reinforced cone
HAMR performance surround
Progressive spider for reliable and consistent control
FEA Optimized Dual-Sided CRC Motor Structure
CEA-2031 compliant
2.5" Voice Coil
64 oz. magnet motor structure
Frequency response: 28-200 Hz
Resonance Frequency (Fs): 35 Hz
Top-mount depth: 5-9/16"

Last edited by big d; 09-08-2012 at 02:45 PM.
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Old 09-09-2012, 03:39 AM
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Your options are a pair of 2ohm DVC, or a pair of 4ohm SVC subwoofers. A pair of 4ohm DVC subwoofers will allow you to have either a 1, 4, or 8 ohm load, depending on your wiring scheme. But you wouldn't be able to create the 2 ohm load on the amp, to get the 1000W you want to split on the 2 subs.

I'd go with 4ohm SVC models, so you can simply wire the subs in parallel to drop the load to 2 ohms.

The Type-S by Alpine are decent. Though you may be able to find another reputable brand, with similar specs, for less.
But if you're set on the Alpines, they will work for you.

How exactly, was your previous setup with the JL sub? I'm curious to know what you had hooked up to the amp, and perhaps determine why they fried on you...
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Old 09-09-2012, 10:15 PM
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Have to recheck the box, but they coils were hooked up in parallel and the 2 subs were connected in series if i recall correctly.
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Old 09-09-2012, 10:48 PM
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Depending, then, on whether these were dual 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm voice coil subs, you were either giving them 500W each, or 250W each.
You mentioned that they might have been "under-powered and over-worked". If it turns out that each woofer was getting 250W, it may be scenario where the subs are adequatley-powered, but the AMP was over-worked. You can't really overwork a 300WRMS sub with 250W (given proper electrical performance), unless the enclosure is creating some issues with how the subwoofer is handling the power. You can, however, over-work the amplifier since there may be tendency to crank up the amp's settings to try and get "more" from the subwoofers. On the other hand, you may have been giving each sub 500W. The RMS is 300W. In that case, you may have been over-powering the subs, AND over-working the amplifier.
I'd suggest getting an amp with "more than enough" power. Then set gains and filters to match the capabilities of the sub(s). You should get longer life out of the amplifier this way. As opposed to getting a lesser amp, and maxing out gains and bass-boost to get the sound you want.
But you already have an amp that'll do 1000W into 2ohm. For most of us, that's plenty for a daily-driver. I'd suggest, then, finding subs that will can handle 450-500W RMS, each.
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Old 09-09-2012, 10:56 PM
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Specs on the blown subs lol

RMS Power Range : 250 Watts
Impedance: 4 Ohm
Diameter: 10 Inch

at 4ohm the amp was good for 600W RMS so i think the amp was fine maybe i had the gain and volume on the amp turned too high?

Thanks for your detailed replies im learning ALOT
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Old 09-09-2012, 11:34 PM
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Link to JL Audio Owner's Manual for 10W3v2...

On page 4 it states:
RECOMMENDED CONTINUOUS (RMS) POWER RANGE FOR ONE SUBWOOFER DRIVER: 100-600W. With the Optimal being 300W.

The sub is definitely a Dual Voice Coil driver. If you're stating that they were 4 ohm voice coils, then the voice coils in parallel would drop each sub to 2 ohm, and then the subs wired in series would bring the final load back to 4 ohm. So you were splitting the 600W, and matching the RMS exactly.
If each voice coil is, in fact, 2 ohm the parallel coils would make for 1 ohm subs, and the subs in series would make for a 2 ohm final load. Then you'd have 500W per sub, which is still under the 600W max...

Any chance you could upload a picture of your amp's settings? Exactly as you had it. If it appears that your amp was set correctly, then the issue could be with the power/ground of the amplifier.

I'd hate to see you get new subs, have the amp set up correctly, but have your electrical be the cause of another break-down. But we'll double-check the settings on the amp first. Then, if that appears okay, you'll have to do some testing on the electrical.
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Old 09-11-2012, 08:25 AM
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Awesome will do man Thanks again for all the help! If youe're in the GTA Ill buy you a beer for all the help haha
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