Subs cut off and High dont when volume is turned up
03-23-2009, 07:40 PM
#1
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 8
Subs cut off and High dont when volume is turned up
OK guys, new here.
Heres the system.
2 12" square pyle 4 Ohm
1 1400 watt pyle amp 2 channel
I have 2 sets of wires going from each sub to amp. wires are bridged on amp for 1 channel.
I have 2 6x9's running off a 400 watt 4 channel amp.
The entire system is connected to 1.5 fraud.
I turn up volume and subs work but when I further turn it up subs cut off and highs stay on.
I have to turn off deck and then subs come back on.
Should I run amp as 2 channel or turn down gain?
Gain and crossover freqency is adjust to about half the limit.
Thanks for any help
Heres the system.
2 12" square pyle 4 Ohm
1 1400 watt pyle amp 2 channel
I have 2 sets of wires going from each sub to amp. wires are bridged on amp for 1 channel.
I have 2 6x9's running off a 400 watt 4 channel amp.
The entire system is connected to 1.5 fraud.
I turn up volume and subs work but when I further turn it up subs cut off and highs stay on.
I have to turn off deck and then subs come back on.
Should I run amp as 2 channel or turn down gain?
Gain and crossover freqency is adjust to about half the limit.
Thanks for any help
03-24-2009, 04:59 AM
#4
Yankee
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,599
First off thank you the photos were entertaining and informative
So your amp a 1.5 "fraud" and a kilometer of wiring is inside a tiny sealed subwoofer box. Well that certainly is a unique solution. But I would say the equipment is working perfectly, it is shutting itself down to protect itself.
1- please remove the electrical gear from inside the subwoofer box, mount it where it can remove some heat
2- turn down the gain
3- this is a bit of a 'what not to do thread' ... thank you
So your amp a 1.5 "fraud" and a kilometer of wiring is inside a tiny sealed subwoofer box. Well that certainly is a unique solution. But I would say the equipment is working perfectly, it is shutting itself down to protect itself.
1- please remove the electrical gear from inside the subwoofer box, mount it where it can remove some heat
2- turn down the gain
3- this is a bit of a 'what not to do thread' ... thank you
03-24-2009, 05:39 AM
#5
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 8
First off thank you the photos were entertaining and informative
So your amp a 1.5 "fraud" and a kilometer of wiring is inside a tiny sealed subwoofer box. Well that certainly is a unique solution. But I would say the equipment is working perfectly, it is shutting itself down to protect itself.
1- please remove the electrical gear from inside the sub woofer box, mount it where it can remove some heat
2- turn down the gain
3- this is a bit of a 'what not to do thread' ... thank you
So your amp a 1.5 "fraud" and a kilometer of wiring is inside a tiny sealed subwoofer box. Well that certainly is a unique solution. But I would say the equipment is working perfectly, it is shutting itself down to protect itself.
1- please remove the electrical gear from inside the sub woofer box, mount it where it can remove some heat
2- turn down the gain
3- this is a bit of a 'what not to do thread' ... thank you
Anyways amps should not overheat with vents in back of box and subs moving air out as they hit. In theory?
But I'll lower the gain and move wires to a 2 channel setup instead of 1 channel.
03-24-2009, 06:55 AM
#6
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 27
You said you bridged it, as in wired your subs down to 2ohm and ran them on a 4ohm bridged channel?
Run your amp either on 4ohms per channel, or wire your subs in series so the amp sees a 8ohm load while bridged.
Amps shouldn't even be mounted ON the box, let alone inside it.
Make an MDF amp rack with a sealed plexi cover. Install some fans and make sure they're away from a possible water induction point haha.
Also lose the cap, it's useless.
Run your amp either on 4ohms per channel, or wire your subs in series so the amp sees a 8ohm load while bridged.
Amps shouldn't even be mounted ON the box, let alone inside it.
Make an MDF amp rack with a sealed plexi cover. Install some fans and make sure they're away from a possible water induction point haha.
Also lose the cap, it's useless.
03-24-2009, 10:16 AM
#8
Yankee
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,599
Ok just so you know, box was built for off road use vehicle and box is water proofed that's why amps are mounted inside. I know it looks shitty but once subs are installed and box is bolted down, it looks like part of my Jeep.
Anyways amps should not overheat with vents in back of box and subs moving air out as they hit. In theory?
But I'll lower the gain and move wires to a 2 channel setup instead of 1 channel.
Anyways amps should not overheat with vents in back of box and subs moving air out as they hit. In theory?
But I'll lower the gain and move wires to a 2 channel setup instead of 1 channel.
The amp box will have to allow for ventilation and what you need isn't a watertight box (unless you snorkel the jeep) but rather a weather tight box (your mail box is a weather tight box and the mail in it stays dry even in the worst weather). Have ventilation holes on the bottom as water can not flow upwards and a vent on top with a roof not unlike industrial transformers or a chimney (so water cant flow down into the box)
03-24-2009, 10:59 AM
#9
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 723
http://pyleaudio.com/manuals/PLA2200-2210-2220-4200.pdf <<< You might want to have a look at page 6. Sorry man.
So you have two subs. Each sub must be a 4 ohm dual-voice coil woofers if you say you have 2 sets of wires from each sub going to the amp. This means that you've wired them in parallel, which drops the load to 2 ohms for each sub. Then you've bridged the amp... but I can't figure out if you've got a 4 ohm or 1 ohm load on that amp. Something tells me it'll be at 1 ohm. Even at 4 ohms bridged, you're only getting 80W per subwoofer. Running each sub on its own channel at 2 ohms, will give you 140W on EACH channel, total 280W.
So yes, you should run each woofer on its own channel.
Looking at the diagram on your owner's manual, if you're at half with your Low Pass Filter, then you're crossing over at about 145Hz - way too high.
I suggest setting the LPF dial so that its facing the 9 o'clock position. That'll be close to 80Hz.
You have two 10A fuses on that amp. I'd love to find out how they come up with a 1400W amplifier. Its insulting.
The most you can get out of this amp is 140W for each subwoofer running at 2 ohms.
Your gains are probably set really high in order to achieve some output, but that is adding to your over-heating/protection problem.
The capacitor is useless, you're not pulling enough current to put any kind of strain on your electrical system.
So you have two subs. Each sub must be a 4 ohm dual-voice coil woofers if you say you have 2 sets of wires from each sub going to the amp. This means that you've wired them in parallel, which drops the load to 2 ohms for each sub. Then you've bridged the amp... but I can't figure out if you've got a 4 ohm or 1 ohm load on that amp. Something tells me it'll be at 1 ohm. Even at 4 ohms bridged, you're only getting 80W per subwoofer. Running each sub on its own channel at 2 ohms, will give you 140W on EACH channel, total 280W.
So yes, you should run each woofer on its own channel.
Looking at the diagram on your owner's manual, if you're at half with your Low Pass Filter, then you're crossing over at about 145Hz - way too high.
I suggest setting the LPF dial so that its facing the 9 o'clock position. That'll be close to 80Hz.
You have two 10A fuses on that amp. I'd love to find out how they come up with a 1400W amplifier. Its insulting.
The most you can get out of this amp is 140W for each subwoofer running at 2 ohms.
Your gains are probably set really high in order to achieve some output, but that is adding to your over-heating/protection problem.
The capacitor is useless, you're not pulling enough current to put any kind of strain on your electrical system.
03-24-2009, 11:39 AM
#10
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 27
Ahh didn't notice that they were DVC subs. Lets hope it's at 4 ohms haha.
On most 2 channel amps, doesn't the bridged power at 4 ohms usually equal the power of running it in 2 channel mode at 2 ohms?
To be quite honest, I'd try to invest in a nice cheap one ohm stable mono.
Hifonics Brutus 600 should do for these subs.
On most 2 channel amps, doesn't the bridged power at 4 ohms usually equal the power of running it in 2 channel mode at 2 ohms?
To be quite honest, I'd try to invest in a nice cheap one ohm stable mono.
Hifonics Brutus 600 should do for these subs.
