Subs cut out at LOW volume - Please Help!
09-22-2008, 07:31 PM
#12
Try this - while the amp is cut out or playing low, unplug one of the RCAs. The sound will stay the same or cut out altogether. If it stays the same, plug it back in and unplug the other RCA. You should be able to see which channel is not seeming to work. Now, take the RCA that appears to work and plug it into the suspected dead side of the amp. By trying both RCAs in both amp inputs you will figure out if it is either one input of the amp that died, or if the amp is fine and one of the RCA channels is dead.
If it winds up being one of the RCA channels, move to the other end of that RCA (crossover or CDplayer) and play the same switch game to see if it is the cable or the deck/processor. At some point you'll find the dead lead.
If it winds up being one of the RCA channels, move to the other end of that RCA (crossover or CDplayer) and play the same switch game to see if it is the cable or the deck/processor. At some point you'll find the dead lead.
OP, there could be a variety of problems.. RCA's is one possibility.. you have to check all your wiring, 3x.. and rule any possibilities out one by one from there... I really doubt it's the amp iteself.. and I would expect the problem to be with your subs above all...
I Hope you are able to figure it out..
09-23-2008, 11:58 AM
#13
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 7
Thanks for all the advice everyone!! Unfortunately, as stated in my original post, the rcas have already been replaced and I have ruled out the deck. I will test the amp inputs individually and get back to you guys! Thanks again.
10-02-2008, 04:35 PM
#14
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 7
Hey everyone, quick update:
I've triple checked all the wiring and the RCA cables. Everything is fine running in and out of the amp. When the bass cuts out, the RCAs running to the sub amp still carry a strong signal. I tried what Dukk had suggested but both channels were equal- unplugging either one did not cut out the sound, it just made it slightly quieter. Checked and rechecked all the power cables and grounds as well.
Since the problem is intermittent, it has been extremely difficult to diagnose. Sometimes I can get the bass working perfectly for a couple of days... then the next morning, I'll turn on my car, and the subs will give me nothing unless I crank it. I have come to the conclusion that the problem is likely due to the sub amp. Perhaps a bad connection within the amp itself has developed over the last few years. The damp westcoast environment could have damaged it or something. My car is parked outside and used to have a minor water leak in the hatch. One morning I actually found condensation on my capacitor and the metal sheilding of the amps! I fixed the water leak since then though- it was over a year ago. I have several theories. Either way, I'm contemplating getting the amp repaired or at least professionally diagnosed.
Any suggestions on where to get an amp repaired? I'd hate to have to buy a whole new amp.
As always, thanks again in advance for your replies.
I've triple checked all the wiring and the RCA cables. Everything is fine running in and out of the amp. When the bass cuts out, the RCAs running to the sub amp still carry a strong signal. I tried what Dukk had suggested but both channels were equal- unplugging either one did not cut out the sound, it just made it slightly quieter. Checked and rechecked all the power cables and grounds as well.
Since the problem is intermittent, it has been extremely difficult to diagnose. Sometimes I can get the bass working perfectly for a couple of days... then the next morning, I'll turn on my car, and the subs will give me nothing unless I crank it. I have come to the conclusion that the problem is likely due to the sub amp. Perhaps a bad connection within the amp itself has developed over the last few years. The damp westcoast environment could have damaged it or something. My car is parked outside and used to have a minor water leak in the hatch. One morning I actually found condensation on my capacitor and the metal sheilding of the amps! I fixed the water leak since then though- it was over a year ago. I have several theories. Either way, I'm contemplating getting the amp repaired or at least professionally diagnosed.
Any suggestions on where to get an amp repaired? I'd hate to have to buy a whole new amp.
As always, thanks again in advance for your replies.
10-02-2008, 07:20 PM
#15
I have never seen an amplifier behave that way... for the most part, an amp either works or it dosen't...
Do yourself a favor and take your car to a good brick and mortar shop that does proffessional installations.. chances are they will be able to diagnose the problem fairly quickly..
Do yourself a favor and take your car to a good brick and mortar shop that does proffessional installations.. chances are they will be able to diagnose the problem fairly quickly..
10-06-2008, 12:13 PM
#18
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 537
Hey everyone, quick update:
I've triple checked all the wiring and the RCA cables. Everything is fine running in and out of the amp. When the bass cuts out, the RCAs running to the sub amp still carry a strong signal. I tried what Dukk had suggested but both channels were equal- unplugging either one did not cut out the sound, it just made it slightly quieter. Checked and rechecked all the power cables and grounds as well.
Since the problem is intermittent, it has been extremely difficult to diagnose. Sometimes I can get the bass working perfectly for a couple of days... then the next morning, I'll turn on my car, and the subs will give me nothing unless I crank it. I have come to the conclusion that the problem is likely due to the sub amp. Perhaps a bad connection within the amp itself has developed over the last few years. The damp westcoast environment could have damaged it or something. My car is parked outside and used to have a minor water leak in the hatch. One morning I actually found condensation on my capacitor and the metal sheilding of the amps! I fixed the water leak since then though- it was over a year ago. I have several theories. Either way, I'm contemplating getting the amp repaired or at least professionally diagnosed.
Any suggestions on where to get an amp repaired? I'd hate to have to buy a whole new amp.
As always, thanks again in advance for your replies.
I've triple checked all the wiring and the RCA cables. Everything is fine running in and out of the amp. When the bass cuts out, the RCAs running to the sub amp still carry a strong signal. I tried what Dukk had suggested but both channels were equal- unplugging either one did not cut out the sound, it just made it slightly quieter. Checked and rechecked all the power cables and grounds as well.
Since the problem is intermittent, it has been extremely difficult to diagnose. Sometimes I can get the bass working perfectly for a couple of days... then the next morning, I'll turn on my car, and the subs will give me nothing unless I crank it. I have come to the conclusion that the problem is likely due to the sub amp. Perhaps a bad connection within the amp itself has developed over the last few years. The damp westcoast environment could have damaged it or something. My car is parked outside and used to have a minor water leak in the hatch. One morning I actually found condensation on my capacitor and the metal sheilding of the amps! I fixed the water leak since then though- it was over a year ago. I have several theories. Either way, I'm contemplating getting the amp repaired or at least professionally diagnosed.
Any suggestions on where to get an amp repaired? I'd hate to have to buy a whole new amp.
As always, thanks again in advance for your replies.
If you lived in Ottawa I'd help you diagnose that amp for nothin.
11-02-2008, 06:19 PM
#19
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 7
Hello again everyone!
Thanks for all the replies. I thought I'd give you another update on the situation.
So, I was planning on taking my car into a "brick and mortar" shop. However, I wanted to wait and make sure that I take the car in WHILE the problem is occuring. Otherwise, they'd probably tell me the system is fine and I'm just wasting their time. For about a week, I drove with my system at a fairly high volume. I would never turn it down to "give it the chance" for the problem to occur. So after driving for a week with the system always bumping, I finally turned it down. Much to my surprise, my system kept working normally. For the new few weeks, I kept turning my system up and down but I could not get the problem to replicate.
So basically, the problem has apparently fixed itself. I did not change a single thing since my last post. Maybe the week of blasting the system corrected a bad connection somewhere. I have no idea. Anyway, there isn't much more I can do unless the problem comes back!
I'm glad it is working properly, but overall, I'm disappointed with the conclusion. Looks like we will never know the exact cause of such a bizarre issue!
If the problem reoccurs, I will rush in to a shop and have them diagnose it and I'll post the solution on here for future reference.
Cheers,
Isaac
Thanks for all the replies. I thought I'd give you another update on the situation.
So, I was planning on taking my car into a "brick and mortar" shop. However, I wanted to wait and make sure that I take the car in WHILE the problem is occuring. Otherwise, they'd probably tell me the system is fine and I'm just wasting their time. For about a week, I drove with my system at a fairly high volume. I would never turn it down to "give it the chance" for the problem to occur. So after driving for a week with the system always bumping, I finally turned it down. Much to my surprise, my system kept working normally. For the new few weeks, I kept turning my system up and down but I could not get the problem to replicate.
So basically, the problem has apparently fixed itself. I did not change a single thing since my last post. Maybe the week of blasting the system corrected a bad connection somewhere. I have no idea. Anyway, there isn't much more I can do unless the problem comes back!
I'm glad it is working properly, but overall, I'm disappointed with the conclusion. Looks like we will never know the exact cause of such a bizarre issue!
If the problem reoccurs, I will rush in to a shop and have them diagnose it and I'll post the solution on here for future reference.
Cheers,
Isaac
05-17-2009, 10:51 PM
#20
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1
Sorry for bringing the thread back again,
I have had similar issues in the past, and found that the speaker has had some form of water damage (water or condensation) around the coil and magnet area. This then causes it to rust/corrode, causing the coil to stick at low power.
Pushing the subs at high volume for some time may of release the rust, and let the coil move freely.
When all else fails, move the sub/speaker slowly with your hand in and out and listen for any sounds, like scraping.. the speaker should move freely and without any gritty feel.
Cheers
I have had similar issues in the past, and found that the speaker has had some form of water damage (water or condensation) around the coil and magnet area. This then causes it to rust/corrode, causing the coil to stick at low power.
Pushing the subs at high volume for some time may of release the rust, and let the coil move freely.
When all else fails, move the sub/speaker slowly with your hand in and out and listen for any sounds, like scraping.. the speaker should move freely and without any gritty feel.
Cheers
