Suggestions on setup?
#1
Suggestions on setup?
Hey, I'm looking into purchasing a setup off a friend. He is offering me a
Concept CC-504 Amp
Alpine Type S 10" sub
and a small truck box to fit behind my truck seat, he wants $135 for it all.
Is this a good deal or should I look into something else? Will the Amp be able to power the Subwoofer properly? Also, I'm in confusion as to wiring, what kind of wiring kit would I need? As you can tell, I am an absolute beginner on this whole subject so please take it easy on the Terminology.
Thanks, Zune.
Concept CC-504 Amp
Alpine Type S 10" sub
and a small truck box to fit behind my truck seat, he wants $135 for it all.
Is this a good deal or should I look into something else? Will the Amp be able to power the Subwoofer properly? Also, I'm in confusion as to wiring, what kind of wiring kit would I need? As you can tell, I am an absolute beginner on this whole subject so please take it easy on the Terminology.
Thanks, Zune.
#2
Here are the specs to the amp
4 Ohm Stereo Power (RMS): 50W X 4
2 Ohm Stereo Power (RMS): 75W X 4
4 Ohm Bridged Power (RMS): 150W X 2
Signal-to-noise ratio: 100 dB
Frequency Response: 5 Hz - 50 KHz
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.05%
Input Sensitivity: 200mV-4V
Continuously variable 0 - 18dB Bass Boost
Built-in continuously variable 18dB per octave crossover, from 50Hz to 250Hz
Remote bass level control "port" (remote RM-100 available seperately)
Platinum Connectors
Length: 13"
Width: 11.66"
Height: 2.37"
We need more info on the sub or the exact model number.
Is it a single voice coil or double? I have a feeling its a single.
4 Ohm Stereo Power (RMS): 50W X 4
2 Ohm Stereo Power (RMS): 75W X 4
4 Ohm Bridged Power (RMS): 150W X 2
Signal-to-noise ratio: 100 dB
Frequency Response: 5 Hz - 50 KHz
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.05%
Input Sensitivity: 200mV-4V
Continuously variable 0 - 18dB Bass Boost
Built-in continuously variable 18dB per octave crossover, from 50Hz to 250Hz
Remote bass level control "port" (remote RM-100 available seperately)
Platinum Connectors
Length: 13"
Width: 11.66"
Height: 2.37"
We need more info on the sub or the exact model number.
Is it a single voice coil or double? I have a feeling its a single.
#3
Thanks for the quick response The sub has got dual 4 ohm voice coils....
here is the specs of the Alpine type s.
10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils
» pulp/glass fibre cone reinforced with Kevlar
» Santoprene rubber surround
» power range: 50-300 watts RMS (150 watts per voice coil)
» peak power handling: 900 watts
» frequency response: 31-700 Hz
» sensitivity: 84 dB
Hopefully that helps you help me, ahahaha.
Thanks Zune.
here is the specs of the Alpine type s.
10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils
» pulp/glass fibre cone reinforced with Kevlar
» Santoprene rubber surround
» power range: 50-300 watts RMS (150 watts per voice coil)
» peak power handling: 900 watts
» frequency response: 31-700 Hz
» sensitivity: 84 dB
Hopefully that helps you help me, ahahaha.
Thanks Zune.
#5
Awesome! And I've got a JVC KD-R200 that was in the vehicle when I bought it, I'm unsure if it supports a Subwoofer though... I believe it does though.
#7
Alright, thanks for all the replies guys. It looks like I've got a lot to think about, as for wiring. Would buying a simple 8 gauge wiring kit off Ebay be alright? Or would it really be worth the money to go for a well known company? Also, if I bridge this amp for the Sub, Will I still have 2 channels for my 2 6x9's?
Last edited by zune; 11-17-2010 at 09:41 PM.
#8
#9
I would use a 50hz test tone and a multimeter to set the gains on the amp (seeing as its a 4 channel amp) to match both outputs.
You could always find another amp that does 300 rms at 2 ohms use that for the sub and then use the 4 channel amp to run your in car speakers
But at the moment it looks like your best bet is to bridge channels 1 and 2 and also bridge channels 3 and 4 and wire each coil to a bridged channel
Once your properly power the sub with the 4 channel amp, you won't have any channels left to power 6 x 9's
You could always find another amp that does 300 rms at 2 ohms use that for the sub and then use the 4 channel amp to run your in car speakers
But at the moment it looks like your best bet is to bridge channels 1 and 2 and also bridge channels 3 and 4 and wire each coil to a bridged channel
Once your properly power the sub with the 4 channel amp, you won't have any channels left to power 6 x 9's
#10
$135 for all of that is a fair price, it should be good for a little bass in your vehicle. All you need is a cheap 8 gauge wiring kit and you will be set. I'd go for a higher quality kit, the difference in price isn't that much compared to a cheapo ebay kit. You can still get a cheap one on ebay they have fairly good ones on there. Just see if theres any reviews on it.
But beware, once you are bit by the car audio bug you will be upgrading your system in no time :P
Edit: Like Sinemeup said, you can either wire each coil to the seperate bridged channels for 300 watts of subwoofer power, or you can wire one of the bridged channels to the subwoofer for 150 watts rms and then you can use the other channels for the 6*9's you have.
But beware, once you are bit by the car audio bug you will be upgrading your system in no time :P
Edit: Like Sinemeup said, you can either wire each coil to the seperate bridged channels for 300 watts of subwoofer power, or you can wire one of the bridged channels to the subwoofer for 150 watts rms and then you can use the other channels for the 6*9's you have.
Last edited by Gen.Ben; 12-09-2010 at 02:07 PM.