Your opinion on this amp? 7K for $700
10-30-2010, 09:26 AM
#24
Really? How can anyone tell when the amp is not out yet nor have there been any tests done to it? When I say tests I mean competitor testing in a real environment. I think I'll save my judgement for when that occurs.
10-31-2010, 07:26 AM
#26
Done DS. 
The AB not solid Davibe? Have you blown one or ???
JB- I take it you see a good amp (without testing ) Worth a shot IYO?
Sonic isn't even answering my emails about the VLX 4DE
If I knew when it actually was coming out, it might make it easier to make a choice..
I'm really leaning hard towards the AB if I can't find out more release info and specs (fuse size etc) on the RE in the next week.
The way releases go sometimes, the VLX4 might not be out till spring..
The AB not solid Davibe? Have you blown one or ???
JB- I take it you see a good amp (without testing
) Worth a shot IYO?Sonic isn't even answering my emails about the VLX 4DE
If I knew when it actually was coming out, it might make it easier to make a choice..
I'm really leaning hard towards the AB if I can't find out more release info and specs (fuse size etc) on the RE in the next week.
The way releases go sometimes, the VLX4 might not be out till spring..
10-31-2010, 12:48 PM
#27
If you can afford the American Bass 500.1, buy it. But if you're going to spend that much, then you should be considering other major companies as well, not just American Bass IMO.
You're not going to hear and know about all the companies through this thread. I would do some research to see what people are running in their cars on a daily basis. And how much power they use to run it ... battery power.
Hey, if you want to be part of the "Testing" phase, go right ahead. But I think we've seen enough companies around here that don't give a flying **** about the user and even when you send them the amp to fix, they don't. So I wouldn't bother with that new amp.
You're not going to hear and know about all the companies through this thread. I would do some research to see what people are running in their cars on a daily basis. And how much power they use to run it ... battery power.
Hey, if you want to be part of the "Testing" phase, go right ahead. But I think we've seen enough companies around here that don't give a flying **** about the user and even when you send them the amp to fix, they don't. So I wouldn't bother with that new amp.
Last edited by DaVibe; 10-31-2010 at 12:51 PM.
11-02-2010, 10:55 AM
#30
On the AB website for the 500.1 is doesn't say much, what it does say, makes no sense to me..
It says
400 amp fuse rating- linked fuse 800 amps, uses external fuses
then the next line-
external fuses and fuse blocks are not used
I don't get it
I was planning on starting with just one 2400 Kinetik (those red racing ed. ones are cheap!!) for whatever amp I decide on, and running 3 - 1/0 runs to the back ,inline ANL fuses near the battery, to a dist. block in the back and so on..
So.. 2 runs with 200 amp fuses near the battery, no other fuses before the sub amp?
1 run with (whatever fusing) the other gear uses to a fuse block etc
Is there a " safe " way and a SPL way?
It says
400 amp fuse rating- linked fuse 800 amps, uses external fuses
then the next line-
external fuses and fuse blocks are not used
I don't get it
I was planning on starting with just one 2400 Kinetik (those red racing ed. ones are cheap!!) for whatever amp I decide on, and running 3 - 1/0 runs to the back ,inline ANL fuses near the battery, to a dist. block in the back and so on..
So.. 2 runs with 200 amp fuses near the battery, no other fuses before the sub amp?
1 run with (whatever fusing) the other gear uses to a fuse block etc
Is there a " safe " way and a SPL way?
