dual 12" truck box / ported / pics!!
#12
carpet finally arrived... pics are pretty dirty.... paints still wet, carpet still dusty.. but overall fineshed, thinking of adding a peice on top to go with the ports to flare it out instead of the carpet finesh, lemme know what yah guys think!
#14
That's an awesome design. Will that work for a single sub setup?. I have an ALPINE SWR1222D and I'm in the process of designing an enclosure for it. Will highly appreciate it if you could help me in designing a similar enclosure for my TYPE-R.
Thanks
Ramone
Thanks
Ramone
Last edited by ramone; 11-15-2008 at 07:53 AM.
#15
that particular box will work with single or dual subs, its baffled.... what type of vehicle did you want to put your type r in, what kind of amp do you have? what kind of music do you mainly listen to.... i always design my sub boxes vehicle specific for what i think would work best, let me know
#16
This is my setup...
JBL GTO755.6 II 560-Watt 6-Channel Power Amplifier
Infinity KAPPA693.9I 3 Way (REAR)
Infinity KAPPA60.9CS Components (FRONT)
ALPINE SWR 1222D SUBWOOFER
I drive a Honda Accord 2007. I usually listen to Heavy HipHop/ROCK/Metal. I'm looking for sick bass without compromising much on the quality.
Please comment.
ramone.
JBL GTO755.6 II 560-Watt 6-Channel Power Amplifier
Infinity KAPPA693.9I 3 Way (REAR)
Infinity KAPPA60.9CS Components (FRONT)
ALPINE SWR 1222D SUBWOOFER
I drive a Honda Accord 2007. I usually listen to Heavy HipHop/ROCK/Metal. I'm looking for sick bass without compromising much on the quality.
Please comment.
ramone.
#17
Gah..sweet. I don't suppose you'd run me through the whole process of putting in slot ports would you? I'm making a new box for my car next weekend and I -want- to use slot, but I'm relatively noobish when it comes to ported designs. And thankfully, unlike your truck I'm not limited for space, since the trunk of a 92 Cadillac has TONS of it to spare :P
#18
more than happy to help out, ramone id suggest something in the 1.2-1.6 net internal displacement with around 30sq in of port tuned to about 30-32hz (keeping the port area above 24 sq in will significantly reduce any sort of audiuable port noise)
phat_71; theres really not ALOT to going with a slot port over a round port, basically your just using a side of the box as half of your port.. cuts down on internal volume loss due to port displacement, ive also read/heard that it shortens the length of the port some due to resonence of the box, post up what kinda gear your using and we will see what we can figure out for you...
phat_71; theres really not ALOT to going with a slot port over a round port, basically your just using a side of the box as half of your port.. cuts down on internal volume loss due to port displacement, ive also read/heard that it shortens the length of the port some due to resonence of the box, post up what kinda gear your using and we will see what we can figure out for you...
#19
Well alright then. The amp is a Pioneer Premier PRS-D1200M mono block, and to that I'm running a pair of TS-W257D4 DVC Subs. Currently I've got my voice coils bridged and the subs in parallel, producing a 4 Ohm load, and cutting my wattage down to around 800 RMS. This coming weekend I'll be tearing it all apart and wiring the coils all in parallel so I can use the full 1200W, as well as installing my 4 Farad Soundstream cap, and building my ported box.
As per manufacturer specs I had decided to go somewhere between the recommended and maximum volume, with a box volume of 1.3 cubic feet. The subs are each in their own separate section. According to the port calculator I used, with a 3 inch port I'd need 9.75 inches to achieve the 35 Hz tune I want.
I'd prefer to use a slotted port if I can, but as I said I'm noobish when it comes to that design, so any help would be great. Regardless though I do still want 35 Hz, and somewhere in the 1.3 cubic foot volume, though I can go up to as large as 1.5 if necessary.
As it stands, the box has to be 12 inches tall, and 37 inches wide, with a gap between both sub sections of at least 6 inches, so I can route the wires for my cap through the middle of the box to keep them as hidden as possible.
As per manufacturer specs I had decided to go somewhere between the recommended and maximum volume, with a box volume of 1.3 cubic feet. The subs are each in their own separate section. According to the port calculator I used, with a 3 inch port I'd need 9.75 inches to achieve the 35 Hz tune I want.
I'd prefer to use a slotted port if I can, but as I said I'm noobish when it comes to that design, so any help would be great. Regardless though I do still want 35 Hz, and somewhere in the 1.3 cubic foot volume, though I can go up to as large as 1.5 if necessary.
As it stands, the box has to be 12 inches tall, and 37 inches wide, with a gap between both sub sections of at least 6 inches, so I can route the wires for my cap through the middle of the box to keep them as hidden as possible.