Dukk

See that part where he adds fiberglass to the OUTSIDE of the baffle which then leads to all that body filler? That's a major mistake - don't do that.

Always design so that you can reinforce the glass from the INSIDE. way way way way less sanding. I did a set of kickpanels 2 weeks ago - the only sanding was to rough it to take the contact cement. zero filler.

liv2ride

iTrader: (1)

x2 , little step by step from the pro

plzzzzz

Dukk

I'll see what I can do.

selective sound

iTrader: (11)

I've tried it both ways and yes it is a lot more work to glass it from the outside but I prefer to glass it from the outside. Once you get good with glassing you can do it from the outside and you will need very little sanding time.

Dukk

^ If you are good with glassing, you should not have to do any external layup.

I just completed a set of KPs this weekend (no pics, had no camera) and the only sanding was for the glue to adhere to the outside. 5mins per panel tops. zero filler.

selective sound

iTrader: (11)

Obviously for kicks you don't need to lay glass but I wasn't refering to kicks I was talking in general.

adammiller03

iTrader: (1)

once you have the fleece on is it not a pain to get access to the inside? I never understood that but have heard it several times. Like how do you fiberglass the inside of kickpanels without missing most of it? could you fleece then fibreglass then fleece again?

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

Once the first layer of fleece has set, the entire kick panel has some strength to it, not much but enough to remove the factory panel that is in behind it. That is why the factory panel has been taped up, to prevent the new baffle from sticking to it. You remove the factory panel from the backside, then flip over the new baffle and apply your glass to the inside of it. Much less work and mess, this is what makes the baffle much stonger. Kick panels are generally small and curvy, this makes them quite strong, so not many layers are necessary at all.