quick question i thought of while getting ready to leave , if i use deck x-over, where do i set amp x over, on the hp side ( 4 channel) i imagine leave it set to full and set x over on deck for front and rear channels
and one the mono side i cant, all i can do is adjust x over to up high, and then reduce it with deck??
I cant set it to full pass, cause its a sub amp so to speak class d mono on that side of amp
its a hifonics zeus 5 channel 1480 rms
thanks
gonna check on my iphone later

 

ideally, you want the amps to just amplify if you have another, "better" cross over to do the processing. Set amps to all pass, or off if available, if not then the 4 channel to the lowest cross point to allow as much of the frequency spectrum through to be adjusted by the deck and vice versa for the sub portion...set as high as possible to allow the deck to trim it at a lower frequency.

 

Gotcha that what I figured
I cam set my 4 channels to full and the sub amp to 150 or 200 whatever the max is

 

I am liking the x over on the deck with amp to 150 for the sub channel. but as far as the 4x6 and 6.5 i have on the 4 channel side, set to full and usingthe deck crossover, i am thinking the amp crossover may have been better for those sets, although i havnt done alot of playing around , whats a good x over point for 4x6 and 6.5's off the deck and a good slope, the last setting was a a 220 i think with a slope that dropped off at 100 or there about (cant remember i think it was a 18 ) deck does 6,12,18,2 i believe. I didnt get long to play it a this setting , before that i was around 120 i think with a more drastic slope, didnt like it.
i also am considering a name change to " never satisfied", but seriously I am fussy , but just want it to sound good also and not be damaging speakers in the long run.
thanks
gonna try alittle more fiber as well tomorrw, to get to around the 1.5 lbs per chamber point,

 

typer r 10's are great little subs... give it 1.5 cu ft(total) tuned to 32-35 hz and it will sound awsome

 

I have a 1.25 per sub box, that has a slot port, tuned to 42, trying to get tuning down to 35 at least, with about 1.25 lbs of fibre its definitely sounding better than it did, but its not quite there yet, im going to add more, if this doesn't cut it i am sealing the box, or ordering another brand box from c and c sales in Florida t hat has a 1.25 tuned to 35
hope i can get this one where i want it though with the fiber fill
+

 

As someone said earlier, you can add port externally (if at all possible) I had a box for 2 12's with external ports and it hammered

 

I didn't catch that earlier
Not famialiAr with an external port
So seal current port and report

 

your box isn't condusive to an external port based on the image you posted. FYI, ports don't really care if they are inside the box or outside the box...all that really matters is the mass of air that is creating the load for your sub. Ultimately, if the polyfill does not work to your liking, then you have a few other options; 1. seal the box 2. depending on the dimensions, you may be able to re-port using round ports and sealing off the current port. 3. get a correct box built for the subs by a local builder or shop (best option, but most costly and much better than ordering a pre-fab) 4. modify the existing port somehow (not easy with that box's design) 5. modify the internal volume by adding volume in the form of an add on enclosure or large tube (looks horrible and requires good woodworking skills and calculations). 6. add your polyfill to the order of about 1.75 lbs/ side and play for 2 weeks, then re-evaluate (this is the cheapest and easiest...but may not be enough to satisfy you).

 

You guys are great, thanks
I'm going to add more fibre to get to 1.75 and just play it till broke in and take it from there , if that doesn't cut it , I'll seal the port , if I'm still not happy I'm going to have to pay the price at a local shop to have a Fiberglas for 2 x 12 to fit back there , but I was quoted like 700 for a box done like that , seems a little Steep to me