Porting subs through ski bag???
02-16-2007, 02:54 PM
#1
Porting subs through ski bag???
Hi there...
Currently, my car's trunk is sealed from the passenger compartment by a steel plate which, in essence, seals the trunk completely.
I want to port the trunk throught the "ski bag" in the back seat (my car is not equipped with the at the moment).
My idea is to fire the subs in a v shape throught the hole created by cutting out the metal where the ski bag would be while sealing the box as best as possible against the back of the seat.
My question is this...
Does the size of the patch cut out from the metal have an effect on the sound and tuning of the box as well? I'd like to go with a ported box due to the fact that I am running older JL w-5's and they are not recommended whatsoever to be run in a sealed enclosure.
The idea at this time is to cut a 9"x9.5" patch out where the ski bag would be.
Can anyone suggest how to go about this properly?
The car is a 1990 BMW 735i.
Thanks!!
Currently, my car's trunk is sealed from the passenger compartment by a steel plate which, in essence, seals the trunk completely.
I want to port the trunk throught the "ski bag" in the back seat (my car is not equipped with the at the moment).
My idea is to fire the subs in a v shape throught the hole created by cutting out the metal where the ski bag would be while sealing the box as best as possible against the back of the seat.
My question is this...
Does the size of the patch cut out from the metal have an effect on the sound and tuning of the box as well? I'd like to go with a ported box due to the fact that I am running older JL w-5's and they are not recommended whatsoever to be run in a sealed enclosure.
The idea at this time is to cut a 9"x9.5" patch out where the ski bag would be.
Can anyone suggest how to go about this properly?
The car is a 1990 BMW 735i.
Thanks!!
02-16-2007, 06:29 PM
#3
Sorry, it sounded like I was asking how to cut the panel... I can manage that OK, there are spot welds that I can grind out with a dremel not problem.
I just need help with designing a properly tuned enclosure for this purpose. I'm willing to go with a different set of subs only if designing the right enclosure for mine is not likely.
Thanks again.
There are coaxials in the back deck right now so I would not have anywhere to install the rear fill...
I just need help with designing a properly tuned enclosure for this purpose. I'm willing to go with a different set of subs only if designing the right enclosure for mine is not likely.
Thanks again.
There are coaxials in the back deck right now so I would not have anywhere to install the rear fill...
02-17-2007, 01:15 AM
#5
its the fold down usually cupholder arm rest in the back seat where you can access your cabin from the trunk or trunk from the cabin.
think of it like having fold down seats, but its not a seat, its just an opening.
think of it like having fold down seats, but its not a seat, its just an opening.
02-17-2007, 02:54 PM
#9
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 40
Nope, he is the states.
it looks very intresting thou.
BTW he is wat he posted on his setup.
I've finally got my setup all installed and tuned/dialed in how I like it. Sounds awsome. For a single 10" sub the output is great.
I fgot around to taking pictures, its no where near finished visually, but it is fully installed and completely functioning.
I have a single JL Audio 10W3v2 in a custom made box. Here are the box specifications.
(outside dimensions, 3/4in MDF)
Height = 15 in
Width = 28 in
Depth1 = 7 in
Depth2 = 12.75 in
Gross box volume = 1.684 Ft³
Speaker Displacement = 0.05 Ft³
Net box volume = 1.64 Ft³
Port Diameter = 3 in
Port Length = 10.654 in
Port Frequency = 30 Hz
Port Area = 7.069 in^2
Port Volume = 0.044 Ft³
I have a JL Audio 250/1 powering the single 10W3v2. Low pass filter is set @ 85Hz, with a infrasonic filter cutting it off at 30Hz. Without the infrasonic filter you risk damage to the subwoofer with overextention below port tuning. The box is entirely isolated from the trunk space. The sub is sealed around the skihole opening with rubber weather stripping so 95% ofthe sound energy is directed into the cabin where it belongs! I have ZERO trunk rattles or vibrations outside the car, and there is no booming bass audible outside. It stays inside the car. Its wonderful because I can enjoy retarded amounts of boom inside, but you absolutely cannot hear me coming if my windows are up.
The Kicker Ix252 amplifier is running my MBQuart midbass/tweeters in the cabin
through the pictured MBQuart crossovers. This amp is a loner (a pretty good one at that) until I get my JL 300/4 to run the interior speakers. This amp is set highpass @ 110Hz.
I still need to build the false panel to hide all the wires (carpeted to match the trunk) and I also need to build the new rear parcel shelf with a flush, flaired (much better looking) port opening.
I should add the rear seat was only removed for the pictures. The sub does fire directly into the backseat, but it makes little if any difference
it looks very intresting thou.
BTW he is wat he posted on his setup.
I've finally got my setup all installed and tuned/dialed in how I like it. Sounds awsome. For a single 10" sub the output is great.
I fgot around to taking pictures, its no where near finished visually, but it is fully installed and completely functioning.
I have a single JL Audio 10W3v2 in a custom made box. Here are the box specifications.
(outside dimensions, 3/4in MDF)
Height = 15 in
Width = 28 in
Depth1 = 7 in
Depth2 = 12.75 in
Gross box volume = 1.684 Ft³
Speaker Displacement = 0.05 Ft³
Net box volume = 1.64 Ft³
Port Diameter = 3 in
Port Length = 10.654 in
Port Frequency = 30 Hz
Port Area = 7.069 in^2
Port Volume = 0.044 Ft³
I have a JL Audio 250/1 powering the single 10W3v2. Low pass filter is set @ 85Hz, with a infrasonic filter cutting it off at 30Hz. Without the infrasonic filter you risk damage to the subwoofer with overextention below port tuning. The box is entirely isolated from the trunk space. The sub is sealed around the skihole opening with rubber weather stripping so 95% ofthe sound energy is directed into the cabin where it belongs! I have ZERO trunk rattles or vibrations outside the car, and there is no booming bass audible outside. It stays inside the car. Its wonderful because I can enjoy retarded amounts of boom inside, but you absolutely cannot hear me coming if my windows are up.
The Kicker Ix252 amplifier is running my MBQuart midbass/tweeters in the cabin
through the pictured MBQuart crossovers. This amp is a loner (a pretty good one at that) until I get my JL 300/4 to run the interior speakers. This amp is set highpass @ 110Hz.
I still need to build the false panel to hide all the wires (carpeted to match the trunk) and I also need to build the new rear parcel shelf with a flush, flaired (much better looking) port opening.
I should add the rear seat was only removed for the pictures. The sub does fire directly into the backseat, but it makes little if any difference
