SWR 1042D box help
09-10-2009, 09:08 AM
#1
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1
SWR 1042D box help
I am new to cca. I am not sure if I want to go ported or not. I have plenty of trunk space(2003 Nissan Sentra Spec V). The sub is a 10" Type R 1042D and the amp is an MTX 4001 amp. I would also need the specs for a box. Thanks in advanced to all.
09-26-2009, 12:49 AM
#2
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 21
I'm new on here as well, and my SWR-1042D will be arriving next week!
Lots of good information at:http://www.diysubwoofers.org
You'll need the specs of the subwoofer, found here: TypeR spec sheet: http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM_SWR-1042D.PDF
I will be using a sealed enclosure, of around 0.8 cubic feet, which matches the recommendations.
For yourself, you need to decide on ported or sealed enclosure, and from there, how much space you will need (see the calculators on diysubwoofers).
To figure out dimensions, you can toss some numbers into the calculator at "Basic Car Audio Electronics": http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm and see what matches your volume requirements.
Have fun!
PS sorry about the links, apparently we're not allowed to post links until we've got 5 posts (could someone explain this???)
Lots of good information at:http://www.diysubwoofers.org
You'll need the specs of the subwoofer, found here: TypeR spec sheet: http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM_SWR-1042D.PDF
I will be using a sealed enclosure, of around 0.8 cubic feet, which matches the recommendations.
For yourself, you need to decide on ported or sealed enclosure, and from there, how much space you will need (see the calculators on diysubwoofers).
To figure out dimensions, you can toss some numbers into the calculator at "Basic Car Audio Electronics": http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm and see what matches your volume requirements.
Have fun!
PS sorry about the links, apparently we're not allowed to post links until we've got 5 posts (could someone explain this???)
09-26-2009, 12:53 AM
#3
If you have the room and you are going to run it off that amp i recommend a bigger then usual box. Say around 1.75 cubes after sub and port displacements. That way you will have a more effecient box and not have to upgrade to a bigger amp to get a more noticable effect.
09-26-2009, 02:35 AM
#4
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 21
... possible thread jack in progress...
LowTonez: Alpine recommends 0.5-0.8 cu ft sealed and 0.6-1.25 ported.
Going by the sheet for sealed enclosures available at diysubwoofers (which i don't understand at all!), you are suggesting a Qtc of 0.628. The results of that calculation yeild a higher cutoff frequency, and a reduced maximum acoustic power output (Par). It takes much less power to reach Par, though.
Can you explain?
I should probably start my own thread...
LowTonez: Alpine recommends 0.5-0.8 cu ft sealed and 0.6-1.25 ported.
Going by the sheet for sealed enclosures available at diysubwoofers (which i don't understand at all!), you are suggesting a Qtc of 0.628. The results of that calculation yeild a higher cutoff frequency, and a reduced maximum acoustic power output (Par). It takes much less power to reach Par, though.
Can you explain?
I should probably start my own thread...
09-26-2009, 10:38 PM
#6
There is a difference of what a sheet tells you and actual experience does. I never follow manufactuers specifactions and when i have, ive been more pleased then when i havent followed man. specs. So what of it yields a Higher cutoff point a larger box will play lower and more effeciently with the power given then a smaller box. Ive had speakers in boxes 5 times larger then recommendation with minimal amounts of power and have been louder and better sounding then those with 10 times the power then ive had (within reason of not clipping). When you start designing and building boxes for a few years then you can come in here and question me.
09-27-2009, 02:48 AM
#7
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 21
^ I meant no offence, honest! I have to ask, or I won't learn. Your advice deviated from that of the manufacturer, and I was sure there was a good reason. Your first sentence is right on the money!
Thank you for getting back to me
Thank you for getting back to me
09-27-2009, 04:52 PM
#9
The reason most manufacturers recommend smaller boxes is because it's easier to sell someone a sub that needs only .8 cubes for a 10 or 12 vs. 2.5-3.0 cubes. Most people, myself included, don't want their entire trunk filled with a heavy box , so you compromise the efficiency of a large box for the convenience of a small box . To offset the efficiency you add more power...ie. Bigger amp. Hence, the reason why virtually all newer subs can handle copious amounts of power. Back in the day...pre-mid 90's...it was rare to have subs that could handle above 300 watts rms, and if they could they were uber expensive, likewise amps that could deliver 1000 watts rms were very expensive. Fast forward to today, and you have inexpensive subs and amps that can deliver 1kw of power for a few hundred dollars. Power is now very cheap, so efficiency can take a back seat to convenience! However, a big box with big power will deliver even bigger bass...so now you have the best of everything, subs that can work in many different scenarios, that can handle big power, and amps that are efficient and can deliver big power...all at very reasonable prices.
Last edited by Denonite; 09-27-2009 at 04:56 PM.
