TL boxes
05-31-2009, 07:19 PM
#1
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 310
TL boxes
Just curious to see how many out there have built them for car audio and what the results were as far as SQ and output vs a regular ported box or a bandpass? I built my first today and am very happy with it . But still feel it needs tweeking
05-31-2009, 09:51 PM
#2
when you say 'TL box', your talking about a 't line enclosure' i'm guessing, right?
if so, t lines can either be very good, or suck ***** completly. well built t lines are very efficient, and allow low powered subs to sound much louder than the power being put to them.
out of curiosity, do you mind posting a blueprint of your design, measurements arent nessesary, just like to see what you came up with
if so, t lines can either be very good, or suck ***** completly. well built t lines are very efficient, and allow low powered subs to sound much louder than the power being put to them.
out of curiosity, do you mind posting a blueprint of your design, measurements arent nessesary, just like to see what you came up with
06-01-2009, 07:46 AM
#4
You can read material from Martin J King for weeks on TL design and theory. I have learned a lot of my TL info from him. I've played with TL in home for years. The boxes are way too big for me to use in car audio. TL enclosures sound amazing when done correctly. There are a couple guys on youtube that have posted their car audio TL designs.
06-01-2009, 09:15 AM
#5
You can read material from Martin J King for weeks on TL design and theory. I have learned a lot of my TL info from him. I've played with TL in home for years. The boxes are way too big for me to use in car audio. TL enclosures sound amazing when done correctly. There are a couple guys on youtube that have posted their car audio TL designs.
06-01-2009, 06:10 PM
#6
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 310
well from what I made it sounds very very good. It has very flat responce and is very tight. the lows hit extremely low and hard . the drum kicks are not as hard but sound very good and sq is very good. I totally see why it is for home use because the box is so big and the lows are awesome for movies. But this box is equivelent to 4.6 cubes for one 12. the formula I used was 1130 ( speed of sound wave) divided by tuning freq ( fs of sub) then again by 4 for the 1/4 wave gives u port lenth in feet. the area of port is the same as sd of sub. I dont use programs to box design i prefer to draw it out and use calculator. but the one I just made is 80 sq" port volume and port lenth of 8.5 ft.
comparing same sub in vented box is night and day diff. the TL box kicks the hell out of the ported box and output is so very close to 2 12's in a 4 cube box with 1400 watts. this box is one Kaption SPL 1200 and a D700 amp.
hoping to meter the different boxs this to see real diff in numbers. the biggest thing with these boxs is also having the proper sub with correct qts and qms so the instuctions say .......
comparing same sub in vented box is night and day diff. the TL box kicks the hell out of the ported box and output is so very close to 2 12's in a 4 cube box with 1400 watts. this box is one Kaption SPL 1200 and a D700 amp.
hoping to meter the different boxs this to see real diff in numbers. the biggest thing with these boxs is also having the proper sub with correct qts and qms so the instuctions say .......
06-01-2009, 06:26 PM
#7
Never said you couldn't .... if it will fit, tuned properly, it will sound very good. 
Have to give credit where it's due. They are a lot of work. You seem to have the fundamentals down. There's way more to transmission lines than what you listed above. Try reading some of Martin J Kings material. It will only help you get better at designing them. I've made about 4 of them for my home JL 15W3. One was over 10 cubes! Hit serious lows in my home.
Not trying to take anything away from ya bro ... they're innovative designs. Just way too big a box for my 3 12's. I think that I was able to fit one back there but after you calculate 3 12's ported or sealed even vs 1 in a TL, it's just not practical for my application.
Different strokes for different folks!! If you can fit a 12" TL enclosure in your ride and be happy with it, COOL!!
Have to give credit where it's due. They are a lot of work. You seem to have the fundamentals down. There's way more to transmission lines than what you listed above. Try reading some of Martin J Kings material. It will only help you get better at designing them. I've made about 4 of them for my home JL 15W3. One was over 10 cubes! Hit serious lows in my home. Not trying to take anything away from ya bro ... they're innovative designs. Just way too big a box for my 3 12's. I think that I was able to fit one back there but after you calculate 3 12's ported or sealed even vs 1 in a TL, it's just not practical for my application.
Different strokes for different folks!! If you can fit a 12" TL enclosure in your ride and be happy with it, COOL!!
06-01-2009, 11:52 PM
#8
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 310
yes I know i need alot of info yet on them, but I was amazed how well it actually works.
the diff is unbelievable. but would like to get it so the drum kicks hit nice too. here is a link to one place i found that has some advice and some pics of diagrams.
Quarter Wave / T-Line tutorial- somewhat - The Forum
the diff is unbelievable. but would like to get it so the drum kicks hit nice too. here is a link to one place i found that has some advice and some pics of diagrams.
Quarter Wave / T-Line tutorial- somewhat - The Forum
06-02-2009, 04:40 PM
#9
K that's sound like a fun way to waste some wood.... í was reading up all the articles, and i came up with port area and port length... I wont be able to keep it straight so it will have to turn around, but is there any specific dimensions for the space after the sub?? like before the port.... or it just have to be enough to fit the sub? also which way the sub should be faced?
My very rough design:
I guess port length will be very rough estimation in this concept.....
also is there any specific length of the 45deg chamfers for the port?
P.s. I found one thread that had wool filling for decreasing the sound velocity, is that a good idea?
i just realized, that the port area totally failed in this design lol
My very rough design:
I guess port length will be very rough estimation in this concept.....
also is there any specific length of the 45deg chamfers for the port?
P.s. I found one thread that had wool filling for decreasing the sound velocity, is that a good idea?
i just realized, that the port area totally failed in this design lol
Last edited by LaZyLuke; 06-02-2009 at 04:46 PM.
06-02-2009, 04:50 PM
#10
K that's sound like a fun way to waste some wood.... í was reading up all the articles, and i came up with port area and port length... I wont be able to keep it straight so it will have to turn around, but is there any specific dimensions for the space after the sub?? like before the port.... or it just have to be enough to fit the sub? also which way the sub should be faced?
My very rough design:
I guess port length will be very rough estimation in this concept.....
also is there any specific length of the 45deg chamfers for the port?
P.s. I found one thread that had wool filling for decreasing the sound velocity, is that a good idea?
My very rough design:
I guess port length will be very rough estimation in this concept.....
also is there any specific length of the 45deg chamfers for the port?
P.s. I found one thread that had wool filling for decreasing the sound velocity, is that a good idea?
