jarredjoffe

hey i have a Mazda protege 1998 lx. i have already purchased a new deck and 2 Rockford fosgate 3-way 6x9s in the back.

i have pictures of my trunk, and i would appreciate some advise on where what should go.

i also don't no what kind of amp and subs i should get. i want to have 2 10inch or 12 inch subs. the bass is already really good in the car so i don't think i need 12s
i want to place the subs on either side of the trunk, facing inward rather than in the dead center of the trunk. i am thinking of building it rather than buying a box because i want something unique and i have the tools.

Lord Huggington

iTrader: (1)

Pics won't load for me. Options are limitless. Do you want a fiberglass box? You can find those online. If you think the bass is really good from 6x9's than a ported 10 on 500-1500w would blow your mind and wouldn't take up more than 1.7 cubic feet which is 1/4-1/3 the space. If it's really good why buy subs, let alone 2 10's or 12's? One ported 10 will suffice.

jarredjoffe

tru, like im only gonna get 2 10s if there's a deal on. but how about brands i was looking at the Rockford 4 channel p4004 i think, amp. but its expensive like 299. any good amps for under 200? or amps with subs for 200-250?

jarredjoffe

btw, do the pics load now?

Lord Huggington

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I'm on 56k tho, they were huge and now they're small. The best 6x9 I've heard for bass were my stock Alero's, surprizingly better than my Kenwoods. They blew after 2 weeks lol. If you make a box the size of the cabin-trunk opening it shouldn't stick out more than 14" at 1.35 cf3 total. Try foreward fire for better results, the port and sub, I assume the rear seat folds. Measure it. You could angle the box for a better fit.

YouTube - 10" SSA DCON Subwoofer abusing a trunk lid

Can't be beat at $115, comes in D4 (2 ohm) and S4 (1 ohm), 300W RMS and that'd be a really cheap amp.

1.35/1.25 cubes (displacement .1) @ 33.44hz, with more space (wires) with the 2nd port length at 18.93, it still says 1.35 cubes though, I guess it's more of a "true" 1.35, the difference is nill, if you don't like decimals than 19 won't hurt, it being 16.012 square inches of port per cube.

Hard to see, 30w x 11.5h x 10 x 14 x .75" x 2 x 19 = 1.25 @ 33.4



MEASURE!

Lord Huggington

iTrader: (1)

My RE XXX 12 was $350 and used 1500W amp was $250, a new small sub and amp shouldn't cost more than $100-150 each.

jalat

iTrader: (6)

I can hook you up with a 12" JBL subwoofer in the bandpass enclosure and a 500rms amp for a real good price.

Sikk Nation

iTrader: (1)

Start with a crapload of sound deadening before hand. depending on your budget and isntalls skils you can do almost anythig you want.

jarredjoffe

now i am having a rough time deciding on a package. i should have my speakers hooked up to an amp, right? and what is this i hear about high-low level converters? is it necessary for me? and if my price range is below 300$ should i try getting a converter, amp, and sub?

and one more thing, is it a better idea for me to get a sub with its pre-designed box and then build around it if its my first time? like adding curves and flow to the trunk rather than shatting a sub and amp in my trunk

and just to clarify: is the strong bass coming from my 6x9s low frequency, or high frequency? and its bad to be using them for bass, right?

Lord Huggington

iTrader: (1)

Buy a small amp for your speakers unless the deck can power them, they aren't costly. I find amp'd speakers are more punchy & rich. Don't buy a pre-fab box unless it's sealed with .75"+ MDF. You can probably buy fiberglass boxes for your model of car that are moulded into the shape of the corner. The bass coming from the 6x9's are generally producing 50-20khz and sometimes as low as 30hz. You don't want to use them below their lowest frequency range. They sound crisp but it's hard to tell when you're pushing them and they have no rumble. If you get a sub don't bother with rear fill.