Wood Glue or PL
01-21-2008, 08:30 AM
#3
in case you use pl
Just don't get that stuff on your clothes or hands.
It's a b to get out if you can get it out....
the Pl premium is quite the thing to use to bond stuff yet I have not used it on building boxes....
It's a b to get out if you can get it out....
the Pl premium is quite the thing to use to bond stuff yet I have not used it on building boxes....
01-21-2008, 04:39 PM
#8
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 250
45 degree corners are you friend,, if you can get them perfect.
Long clamps and glue,, I use Weldbond white glue,, never failed me yet!
Using a brad nailer is good,, Biscuit jointing is the ****! If you can afford a Biscuit jointer router and the biscuits are not cheap either,, but you'll have a joint that's bullet proof!
Screw and glue requires (in MDF) pre drilling, and if your finishing, and I recommend anyways, counter sinking. Screw and glue will give you a strong joint, but you might bow your wood in the screw area.
You can also recess your joints (dato) joint is what's it's call I believe.
commonly used in shelving, and super strong as the one piece locks into the other, glue, nail or screw.
As mentioned, if you use glue and you have some gaps, you're going to need to sillycone to fill,, or if you use PL off the start, it;ll fill the little gaps you made.
But,, if you take your time, measure twice, cut once, use sharp tools and have a little know how, you should come out with a nice product.
If you like the way your box sounds, you can always coat the interior of the box with fiberglass resin. It'll soak into the MDF and seal the whole box up, and provide another layer of stiffness. You can re-inforce the corners with matting or cloth if you want, but essentially, by coating the interior of the box with resin, you'll make a box in a box, and it'll smooth too.
Long clamps and glue,, I use Weldbond white glue,, never failed me yet!
Using a brad nailer is good,, Biscuit jointing is the ****! If you can afford a Biscuit jointer router and the biscuits are not cheap either,, but you'll have a joint that's bullet proof!
Screw and glue requires (in MDF) pre drilling, and if your finishing, and I recommend anyways, counter sinking. Screw and glue will give you a strong joint, but you might bow your wood in the screw area.
You can also recess your joints (dato) joint is what's it's call I believe.
commonly used in shelving, and super strong as the one piece locks into the other, glue, nail or screw.
As mentioned, if you use glue and you have some gaps, you're going to need to sillycone to fill,, or if you use PL off the start, it;ll fill the little gaps you made.
But,, if you take your time, measure twice, cut once, use sharp tools and have a little know how, you should come out with a nice product.
If you like the way your box sounds, you can always coat the interior of the box with fiberglass resin. It'll soak into the MDF and seal the whole box up, and provide another layer of stiffness. You can re-inforce the corners with matting or cloth if you want, but essentially, by coating the interior of the box with resin, you'll make a box in a box, and it'll smooth too.
01-23-2008, 07:37 PM
#10
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 487
woodworker magazine did tests on about 30 kinds of glue and the far above the rest winner is regular old yellow elmers wood glue
that i all i use and 18 awg brad nails hold it together till the glue dries the only screws you should use are to hold the woofer in also never screw in to the end of a piece of mdf or plywood
pl construction is for people that ant cut straight and gorilla glue expands so keep away from them
Bill
that i all i use and 18 awg brad nails hold it together till the glue dries the only screws you should use are to hold the woofer in also never screw in to the end of a piece of mdf or plywood
pl construction is for people that ant cut straight and gorilla glue expands so keep away from them
Bill
