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Originally Posted by fauker
(Post 294969)
45 degree corners are you friend,, if you can get them perfect.
Long clamps and glue,, I use Weldbond white glue,, never failed me yet! Using a brad nailer is good,, Biscuit jointing is the ****! If you can afford a Biscuit jointer router and the biscuits are not cheap either,, but you'll have a joint that's bullet proof! Screw and glue requires (in MDF) pre drilling, and if your finishing, and I recommend anyways, counter sinking. Screw and glue will give you a strong joint, but you might bow your wood in the screw area. You can also recess your joints (dato) joint is what's it's call I believe. commonly used in shelving, and super strong as the one piece locks into the other, glue, nail or screw. As mentioned, if you use glue and you have some gaps, you're going to need to sillycone to fill,, or if you use PL off the start, it;ll fill the little gaps you made. But,, if you take your time, measure twice, cut once, use sharp tools and have a little know how, you should come out with a nice product. If you like the way your box sounds, you can always coat the interior of the box with fiberglass resin. It'll soak into the MDF and seal the whole box up, and provide another layer of stiffness. You can re-inforce the corners with matting or cloth if you want, but essentially, by coating the interior of the box with resin, you'll make a box in a box, and it'll smooth too. |
white glue or carpenters glue is all I use.
1. Easy clean-up 2. Cheap in price 3. Never failed me yet Anyways, This was a good thread !... I just hope nobody would be stupid enough to even think gorilla glue, that stuff is jokes, it shouldnt even be on the market, it sucks so bad. |
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I found gorillia glue works fine but its a pain to work with because you have to wet the joints before you pout the glue on because it needs water to cure. Also it turns white and foamy looking when it dries so any that seeps out really uglies up the box. Also its super sticky and if you get it on your hands its hard to get off since when you wash the water cures the glue on your hands
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sounds like it's a urethane base
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yes I beleive it is. Anyway I switched back to PL premium. Only thing I don't like about PL premium is that when it hardens it gets little air bubbles trapped in it so it looks all bumpy after it dries
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in thier dried form they are two completely different products. Ideally you got all your cuts right and laser straight, your joints are contact glued with a little bit of carpenter's glue (elmer's, probond, ect). If your joints are loose then you could use PL because it maintains flexability in a gap, but now you've got a flexable box. Do things right and use a table saw with a good low fall out blade. Use pro bond and clamps. Let it set for DAYS. Or half ass it and use PL and fill the gaps, hope for a magic beta resonance.
There is the speed bonus to PL 500 that should be noted, it's acetone based while wood glue is water based. To truely "cure" in MDF carpenter's glue takes a couple of days where as the PL premium is stiff in hours. Problem is it's "stiff" vs "solid". Either way the average installer won't notice the difference unless the box is cut with a hatchet. |
LOL i do carpentry for a long time now even if you buy frigin cheep 3 dollar glue it will hold, the wood breaks before the glue will give.
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Originally Posted by Dukk
(Post 294936)
You'll get as many conflicting answers here as at different shops. IMO if you can create tight joints then wood glue is all that is needed. If you're cuts are not so good then thicker goop like PL is a better idea.
Exactly, wood glue is great if your joints are tight. If you have sloppy joints PL would be better for filling the gaps. Ultimately a box with tight joints and wood glue will be stronger than a box with sloppy joints and PL. |
the logic on everything I've ever read on it is that you want a rigid, non flexing seam so that resonance doesn't occur in a wall that has a "springy" bond. I think it's all sound thinking, but there's probably no difference between any product you use as long as it sticks. Like Lonewolf said, MDF will tear apart from flexi silicone let alone proper glues so use what you want as long as you get a nice joint.:smilie_da
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Originally Posted by rorybreaker
(Post 306953)
the logic on everything I've ever read on it is that you want a rigid, non flexing seam so that resonance doesn't occur in a wall that has a "springy" bond. I think it's all sound thinking, but there's probably no difference between any product you use as long as it sticks. Like Lonewolf said, MDF will tear apart from flexi silicone let alone proper glues so use what you want as long as you get a nice joint.:smilie_da
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