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a few of the toyz either IN my system, or soon WILL BE!!

altec
May 26, 2014
 11
 0
Hope I can figure out how to upload pix here so I can show everyone my gear as it's easier to show it than it is to describe it, especially when many of these components were made before many who might read this were BORN. EVERYTHING you see, as the title states, either already IS in my system, or will be SOON (like all in and working within the next 2 weeks or so). Read more ยป
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Here's one of my two Altec Lansing 12.1" woofers. It's carbon fiber cone and rubber surround are connected to a magnet of about one pound. Not too much by current woofer standards, right? Well I wouldn't expect it to, since this, as all the speakers in the car are BRAND NEW, but ALL are AT LEAST 25 years OLD!! I'm building a high performance, high sq  VINTAGE system in a high performance car. I'll go into more when I have more time but I'll say this: The 16" , 30  year old subwoofers have a 5  POUND magnet. NOT the whole structure, JUST THE MAGNET ITSELF, with a 3" voice coil and a cast aluminum frame. No big deal you think. Well if THESE woofers hadn't existed, the woofers in your car probably wouldn't exist EITHER!:)
Here's one of my two Altec Lansing 12.1" woofers. It's carbon fiber cone and rubber surround are connected to a magnet of about one pound. Not too much by current woofer standards, right? Well I wouldn't expect it to, since this, as all the speakers in the car are BRAND NEW, but ALL are AT LEAST 25 years OLD!! I'm building a high performance, high sq VINTAGE system in a high performance car. I'll go into more when I have more time but I'll say this: The 16" , 30 year old subwoofers have a 5 POUND magnet. NOT the whole structure, JUST THE MAGNET ITSELF, with a 3" voice coil and a cast aluminum frame. No big deal you think. Well if THESE woofers hadn't existed, the woofers in your car probably wouldn't exist EITHER!:)
0 2014/05/26 22:18:57 altec
This is a vacuum TUBE 'sound enhancer', made to go between preamp and power amps in Audiophile home systems. It runs on 110 volts AC, and cannot be converted, so I've added a 12 volt DC to 110 volt AC inverter to the stereo's electrical power supply, and this gives the system a 'warm, tube sound', really smooth and sweet. It's hard to describe how good it sounds, but take it out of the system, and you KNOW it's gone!
This is a vacuum TUBE 'sound enhancer', made to go between preamp and power amps in Audiophile home systems. It runs on 110 volts AC, and cannot be converted, so I've added a 12 volt DC to 110 volt AC inverter to the stereo's electrical power supply, and this gives the system a 'warm, tube sound', really smooth and sweet. It's hard to describe how good it sounds, but take it out of the system, and you KNOW it's gone!
0 2014/05/26 22:18:57 altec
My limited edition Clarion HX-D10. bought it new about 1991 or so, and it's lasted me through 3 other cars before the current one! It's part of a total system Clarion made then; it has an outboard DSP/ D/A convertor (DPH-910), a 6 disc CD changer, and a TV monitor, OHM642. The deck's removable face is machined from a solid block of aluminum, and weighs about 4 ounces by itself! This being the fourth car this system's been installed in, you'd think it'd be falling apart, right? NOPE. To THIS DAY, neither the cd player, or the disc changer has EVER SKIPPED!! I rarely listen to radio, so the CD players see a LOT of use, but NEVER fail!
My limited edition Clarion HX-D10. bought it new about 1991 or so, and it's lasted me through 3 other cars before the current one! It's part of a total system Clarion made then; it has an outboard DSP/ D/A convertor (DPH-910), a 6 disc CD changer, and a TV monitor, OHM642. The deck's removable face is machined from a solid block of aluminum, and weighs about 4 ounces by itself! This being the fourth car this system's been installed in, you'd think it'd be falling apart, right? NOPE. To THIS DAY, neither the cd player, or the disc changer has EVER SKIPPED!! I rarely listen to radio, so the CD players see a LOT of use, but NEVER fail!
0 2014/05/26 22:18:57 altec
Vintage Altec crossover/equalizer. This is to equalize the front speakers only. Although I have full equalization in the DSP, I set it flat, then adjust front and rear eq's, then I can fine tune system w/DSP's eq levels; works out GREAT! (look at the photo of the REAR eq:)
Vintage Altec crossover/equalizer. This is to equalize the front speakers only. Although I have full equalization in the DSP, I set it flat, then adjust front and rear eq's, then I can fine tune system w/DSP's eq levels; works out GREAT! (look at the photo of the REAR eq:)
0 2014/05/27 13:26:50 altec
This is my battery isolator. It allows custom built 180 amp alternator to charge both the car's battery, and the stereo's battery (Stereo battery is Optima red top). If you run 2 batteries, 1 for stereo and 1 for car, the two batteries will try to 'equalize' the electricity between both batteries, and that will lead to DISASTER! If you run multiple batteries in your car for stereo and car, you MUST use one of these battery isolators!
This is my battery isolator. It allows custom built 180 amp alternator to charge both the car's battery, and the stereo's battery (Stereo battery is Optima red top). If you run 2 batteries, 1 for stereo and 1 for car, the two batteries will try to 'equalize' the electricity between both batteries, and that will lead to DISASTER! If you run multiple batteries in your car for stereo and car, you MUST use one of these battery isolators!
0 2014/05/27 13:26:50 altec
This is my 30 BAND PER CHANNEL equalizer, just for REAR channels! It REALLY helps to turn off DSP's eq, set this where I want it, and (this eq combined with the front eq), get system just right, then I turn on DSP's eq for final 'tweaking' of system, or use DSP to make FINE adjustments for a particular disc (YES, I'm an Audiophile, EVERYTHING must be PERFECT!)
This is my 30 BAND PER CHANNEL equalizer, just for REAR channels! It REALLY helps to turn off DSP's eq, set this where I want it, and (this eq combined with the front eq), get system just right, then I turn on DSP's eq for final 'tweaking' of system, or use DSP to make FINE adjustments for a particular disc (YES, I'm an Audiophile, EVERYTHING must be PERFECT!)
0 2014/05/27 13:26:50 altec
Here's my 'baby'. Owned since new, for past 36 years. I literally drove it off showroom floor! NEVER been hit, It has 64K original miles on car, and the V-6 has been replaced with a 400  horsepower Oldsmobile 'Rocket' engine, same as Olds used in '442's. Interior is MINT, and I've hidden ALL 10 speakers, including two 16" Vintage Altec subwoofers in it. The ONLY part you see are 2 'eyeball' tweeters on top of dash, and they will be hidden very soon!
Here's my 'baby'. Owned since new, for past 36 years. I literally drove it off showroom floor! NEVER been hit, It has 64K original miles on car, and the V-6 has been replaced with a 400 horsepower Oldsmobile 'Rocket' engine, same as Olds used in '442's. Interior is MINT, and I've hidden ALL 10 speakers, including two 16" Vintage Altec subwoofers in it. The ONLY part you see are 2 'eyeball' tweeters on top of dash, and they will be hidden very soon!
0 2014/05/27 13:39:21 altec
1960 altec 16 inch woofer, goes down to 35 Hz. I have TWO of these in car, along with the Altec 12.1's, which are crossed over @ 55 Hz, at which time these take over the bass duties. Remember, this system is as vintage as possible; I'm building the car as if I'd have started building it in 1978. At that time, Altec and JBL were THE KINGS of audio, and their speakers were BADD AZZ, so I knew I wanted my most perfect car that I've built (I've had 19 hotrods/musclecars over the years) to be my very best effort, and have features NO ONE else have, which, so far, I've achieved. Oh, btw, I have ALL the toys listed here, in pix or written word, but 1 thing I've forgotten to mention is that even with ALL these toys, I STILL have about 90% of the original trunk space left! It all comes down to LOTS of planning, measuring, figuring air volume, etc. It CAN be done!
1960 altec 16 inch woofer, goes down to 35 Hz. I have TWO of these in car, along with the Altec 12.1's, which are crossed over @ 55 Hz, at which time these take over the bass duties. Remember, this system is as vintage as possible; I'm building the car as if I'd have started building it in 1978. At that time, Altec and JBL were THE KINGS of audio, and their speakers were BADD AZZ, so I knew I wanted my most perfect car that I've built (I've had 19 hotrods/musclecars over the years) to be my very best effort, and have features NO ONE else have, which, so far, I've achieved. Oh, btw, I have ALL the toys listed here, in pix or written word, but 1 thing I've forgotten to mention is that even with ALL these toys, I STILL have about 90% of the original trunk space left! It all comes down to LOTS of planning, measuring, figuring air volume, etc. It CAN be done!
0 2014/05/27 13:58:36 altec
Here's two of my 4 amplifiers. One is a California 4 channel amp, an AP 1040. It's 4x 80 watts RMS power, w/0.05% distortion. The other amp is a mono dedicated subwoofer amp, also a California. It's a model AP 1000M, and puts out 500 watts RMS x 1. Both of these amps are a TREMENDOUS value for the money! They are clean, smooth and VERY reliable. I've upgraded the internal power supply caps, as well as all capacitors in the signal path in both amps. I'd put these against a PPI or a Phoenix Gold amp of the same power rating any day, they sound THAT good. They are probably the best amp I've had for under $500 ea.
Here's two of my 4 amplifiers. One is a California 4 channel amp, an AP 1040. It's 4x 80 watts RMS power, w/0.05% distortion. The other amp is a mono dedicated subwoofer amp, also a California. It's a model AP 1000M, and puts out 500 watts RMS x 1. Both of these amps are a TREMENDOUS value for the money! They are clean, smooth and VERY reliable. I've upgraded the internal power supply caps, as well as all capacitors in the signal path in both amps. I'd put these against a PPI or a Phoenix Gold amp of the same power rating any day, they sound THAT good. They are probably the best amp I've had for under $500 ea.
0 2014/05/27 17:33:42 altec
This is the Clarion Pro Audio 6 disc CD changer, that's part of the special, dedicated system Clarion put together back around 1991. This changer has NEVER skipped, ever, just like the head unit. I've used Clarion gear for over 25 years, and though I've had Nakamichi, Sony Explode, Pioneer, etc. head units, NOTHING has been as reliable as a Clarion head unit. Whether it was an indash cassette with shafts, to a DIN sized CD player, I've had nothing but GOOD LUCK with Clarion.
This is the Clarion Pro Audio 6 disc CD changer, that's part of the special, dedicated system Clarion put together back around 1991. This changer has NEVER skipped, ever, just like the head unit. I've used Clarion gear for over 25 years, and though I've had Nakamichi, Sony Explode, Pioneer, etc. head units, NOTHING has been as reliable as a Clarion head unit. Whether it was an indash cassette with shafts, to a DIN sized CD player, I've had nothing but GOOD LUCK with Clarion.
0 2014/05/27 17:33:42 altec
This is the voltage inverter that converts 12 volts DC to 110 volts AC, to power the Yaquin vacuum tube 'sound enhancer'/gain amplifier.  It's quiet in operation (it has a cooling fan), doesn't produce any nasty noises in the Yaquin, and is efficient. It's connected directly to the Optima Red top stereo battery, and is connected, through a relay, to the 'power antenna' lead on the head unit, so the inverter is turned on/off with the rest of the system.
This is the voltage inverter that converts 12 volts DC to 110 volts AC, to power the Yaquin vacuum tube 'sound enhancer'/gain amplifier. It's quiet in operation (it has a cooling fan), doesn't produce any nasty noises in the Yaquin, and is efficient. It's connected directly to the Optima Red top stereo battery, and is connected, through a relay, to the 'power antenna' lead on the head unit, so the inverter is turned on/off with the rest of the system.
0 2014/05/27 17:33:42 altec
 

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