Scythe_

Hi,

I was looking into getting a stereo setup for my 02' liberty.

Here is what i put together. Mind you, i dont know much, if any, about car audio.

Please, let me know if this setup is compatible or a good choice? (all items found on amazon)

Amp: JX1000/1D - JL Audio Monoblock 1000W RMS Class D Amplifier

Sub: 12W7AE-3 - JL Audio 12" Single 3-Ohm Subwoofer (12W7AE3)

Box: R/T 300 Enclosure Series 318-12 JL - Single 12-Inch Slot Vented Sub Bass Hatchback Speaker Box with Labyrinth Power Port for JL Audio Subs

Speakers: JL Audio C2-650X Evolution™ Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers (2)

Receiver: Kenwood KDC-X397 eXcelon Single DIN In-Dash Car Stereo Receiver


I realize i still need to get cables/wires. Any recommendations?

Dukk

The 12w7 is too much woofer. Try a 12w6v2-D4 and use the difference in $$ to buy a JX360x2 to run the front speakers. You will have a much more balanced system that plays way louder. The 12w6 is a better match for that sub amp too. I would like to see a better enclosure as well but that one is ok to start with.

For fronts, consider the little bit of extra money (under $20 difference there on Amazon) the C2-650 component costs over the coaxials. Should result in better performance.

Denonite

iTrader: (1)

^^what he said!!!

Scythe_

Thanks for the responses. I really appreciate it!

I have made the suggested revisions to the setup.

the 360/2, could that run both the front and rear speakers? or would i have to go with the 4 channel? I apologize if these are stupid questions... im not adept in car audio, just building/fixing computers. lol

Lastly, since you mentioned the box isnt that great. Could you suggest a better prefabricated? Im way too lazy to attempt a DIY. Plus, the local car audio shop was just looking to rip me off...

I was looking around Crutchfield for a ported box. Would you say this one is better or worse?
Sound Ordnance™ Bass Bunker Ported single 12" subwoofer enclosure (Model BB12-200V) at Crutchfield.com

Denonite

iTrader: (1)

yeah the 360/2 can at 2ohms amp load, you just won't be able to fade and front and rear speakers will get the same power. If you want seaparate control of the speakers then a 4channel is better. The prefab boxes will be similar, what Dukk was saying was to have a custom built box made to the specs needed that would best match your sub to the car and system...but for general/decent sound that one will do (personally subs are either for loud systems that sound good or to add to the overall sound quality of the system and therefore not as important as say component speaker placement, tuning etc...) Still very important and particularly in the fun department. I typically like my sub to sound deep, tight, with lots of impact and little overhang (ringing). if you can get a box that closely matches the JL manual recommendations (tuning frquency, wood thickness, and port volume etc..) that will give you very good performance right away or have a reputable shop build it for you (should be less that 200.00).

Scythe_

Alright. Ill see how the prefab works out before potentially upgrading to a custom box.

Here is the revised list of components.

Amps:
JX1000/1D - JL Audio Monoblock 1000W RMS (Sub)
JX360/4 - (Speakers)
Sub: JL Audio 12w6v2-D4
Speakers: c2-650 (2 pairs)
HU: KDC-X397
Box: R/T 300 Enclosure Series 318-12

Before i place any orders, this should all work together and sound pretty good? I dont want to be an idiot and order parts that dont suit the entire setup.

VWdude

since you said that you dont know much about car audio i will give you some feedback. I agree with the above comments. As far as the box, there are several types of boxes, but 3 popular types.

sealed boxes: easiest to build. you have the most flexibility on size as you can build it slightly larger than required or slightly smaller, and the sub will still sound good. these are generally the smallest boxes, but yield less sound than the other styles but have the widest frequency range. This is what I usually use now as I like to build fiberglass enclosures to either side the subwoofer for a stealth install or display it to make it a show install.

ported/vented: more complicated to build. you need to get this design correct because if its off the sub will severely under perform. if the size and specs are too far off you can blow the sub. the ouput is louder than a sealed box, but the frequency range is narrower and this box is generally 50% larger than a sealed enclosure.

bandpass: this type was popular in the 80s and 90s, but is loosing its popularity, and for good reason. It needs to be 100% on spec or the sub will sound like garbage. it looks the best with the sub behind a window, and this is a popular pre-fab style box. it has a very narrow frequency range.

with that said, you also need to consider the box thickness. all of the boxes that I have built for the w7 were 1/2" MDF or thicker. I know that you are looking at the w6 now, and thats a great choice as I used to have a pair of 10s and they were some of my favorite subs. just make sure that you get the right box.

Dukk

IMO the rear speakers will be fine being powered by the radio.