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Old 02-18-2003, 07:06 AM
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I get mixed messages around this place about what is good and what is not. In particular I am wondering about profile amps. I know that they are bottom end amps, but I was looking at one (CA 800) which pushed 200x2 RMS @ 4 ohms, and 600x1 RMS @ 4 ohms. These stats were tested at 14.4 v, and are the RMS ratings not the peak (peak is 400x2 @ 4 ohms). All of that for $179 US (or cheaper, depending where you look). I think that is a lot of wattage for the buck.
Now some of you might say "distortion, distortion, distortion" but the stats on the amp are THD <0.07% and S/N 102 db which is comparable to most other amps on the market for way more cash. So, then, why do these amps "suck" if they apparently do the same work for half the buck?
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Old 02-18-2003, 07:15 AM
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With a 60 amp fuse rating, assuming it is capable of drawing 60 amps at full power, in order to do 600 watts bridged, the amp would have to be 70% efficient. Most class-AB amps have a 50% efficiency at the rated RMS power and I would expect it to be able to around 400 watts or so. IF it is capable of drawing 60 amps.

The 'cheaper' amp producers may test their amps at a higher voltage and/or distortion level, or for very short periods of time, also with ONE frequency rather than an average over 20-20000Hz. I'm sure it is fully capable of making 600 watts rms, for maybe a second with 18V input and 10% distortion.

Of course this is all based on what I hear and may not be true...who knows. That's my input anyways

and those s/n and thd rations are probably taken at 1/3 power rather than the rated RMS

[ February 18, 2003, 08:19 AM: Message edited by: hiredgoon ]
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Old 02-18-2003, 10:39 AM
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Unfortunatly, it is sometimes very difficult to rate an amplifier based on power specs provided by
manufactures(most!) Now not to say there are not any companies who do give usefull information.

There are so many factors involved,
power is one thing , but what about the ability of the amp to control the speaker at that given power? Unfortunatly THD means nothing and is a term thrown around car audio too much.

Bang for the buck is a great way to shop for an amp. In most cases reputable companies have a good track record and that is why I would stick to them

[ February 18, 2003, 11:42 AM: Message edited by: slow/n\low ]
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Old 02-18-2003, 11:52 AM
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Thanks Dodge; most of what you said is what I suspected. Myself, I don't push my equipment hard, my wife doesn't appreciate loud at all. Also I will only be running a single pioneer 4 ohm sub. So I shouldn't woory too much about reliability issues of heating up etc.
As for the crossover slope, if I were to pick up an auxillary x-over for $50 I should be fine . . .
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Old 02-18-2003, 02:00 PM
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Originally posted by maltesechicken:
All of that for $179 US (or cheaper, depending where you look). I think that is a lot of wattage for the buck.
I think that's pretty expensive. There are a lot of decent proven amps that you can get for that price.
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