Attention: BIG RED GUY
^ You'll have to forgive him, Paul...he's new to this internet stuff you know... [img]graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
Got the link and the doc now Dave, thanks again for your help. I have to admit, the roll-off at the bottom end was a surprise....so much for using it to run that box.... [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/cry.gif[/img]
Do let me know when and where we can meet so I can get it back...
Oh well, at least I know it still works....now all I have to do is find it a home.... [img]graemlins/deal4u.gif[/img]
And yes Father Yuli I do still pop in here on a regular basis....sometimes I even post something...
[ November 09, 2004, 06:11 PM: Message edited by: BigRedGuy ]
Got the link and the doc now Dave, thanks again for your help. I have to admit, the roll-off at the bottom end was a surprise....so much for using it to run that box.... [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/cry.gif[/img]
Do let me know when and where we can meet so I can get it back...
Oh well, at least I know it still works....now all I have to do is find it a home.... [img]graemlins/deal4u.gif[/img]
And yes Father Yuli I do still pop in here on a regular basis....sometimes I even post something...
[ November 09, 2004, 06:11 PM: Message edited by: BigRedGuy ]
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Good stuff Bill..
I will drop that amp off at Lee's Thursday after work, pick it up when you can.
Oh, and I had to install a new positive power wire on it.. no extra charge..
Would you be interested in letting the crew here see the test results??
I will drop that amp off at Lee's Thursday after work, pick it up when you can.
Oh, and I had to install a new positive power wire on it.. no extra charge..
Would you be interested in letting the crew here see the test results??
I'll try and be out near the store tomorrow evening, Mr. D...I would love to know why it looks like it's only putting out half the rated power...tired TO3s maybe? [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/cry.gif[/img]
According to LP, it should be doing this: http://www.linearpower.com/html/manu...an/man3p1.html . If you want to post the test results here, go right ahead....maybe someone here knows why it's doing this... [img]graemlins/banghead.gif[/img]
If I can't get out there tomorrow night, I will be there for sure Saturday morning around 10 or so, maybe thats fits with your schedule?
Do let me know....
According to LP, it should be doing this: http://www.linearpower.com/html/manu...an/man3p1.html . If you want to post the test results here, go right ahead....maybe someone here knows why it's doing this... [img]graemlins/banghead.gif[/img]
If I can't get out there tomorrow night, I will be there for sure Saturday morning around 10 or so, maybe thats fits with your schedule?
Do let me know....
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^ Which did you have tested? I had a 5002IQ and a 2202IQ in my car and honestly I was disappointed with the amount of power I was supposed to have and the performance of the system. [img]graemlins/cry.gif[/img]
I replace them with a BBQ Punch40 and Punch60 and it killed over the LPs. Lost a lot of money over those amps.
I replace them with a BBQ Punch40 and Punch60 and it killed over the LPs. Lost a lot of money over those amps.
The 3002...specs say 150 per side at 4ohms stereo, but the test fell far short of that. Only got 75 X 2 @ 4ohms. so I'm wondering about cold solder joints, tired transistors, bad mojo..... [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/cry.gif[/img]
I was hoping to use it to run a box in the wife's van, but it even has a -3db point of 33hz, so it probably won't do the job right...grrr
I was hoping to use it to run a box in the wife's van, but it even has a -3db point of 33hz, so it probably won't do the job right...grrr
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Cold solder joints?? Um, some of the traces on the board are soldered to screws that hold the TO3s in place are actually rusting. I tried cleaning up the board as much as I could when it was out to replace the power wire, but I think that's all she'll do.
The spec sheet at that web page is quite interesting. It even lists the -1dB as 35Hz, which is pretty sad by todays terms, I see lots of amps that are -3dB in the <6Hz range...
If anyone wants to have a look at the test report, it will be online for a few more days here:
http://thewrx.netfirms.com/dl/3002.pdf
I finally got a chance to read through the owners manual completely, and I am going to redo the power testing, I didn't know about the impedance matching switch, or how to bridge it. A new report will be up on the weekend.
[ November 11, 2004, 08:34 PM: Message edited by: Dave_MacKinnon ]
The spec sheet at that web page is quite interesting. It even lists the -1dB as 35Hz, which is pretty sad by todays terms, I see lots of amps that are -3dB in the <6Hz range...
If anyone wants to have a look at the test report, it will be online for a few more days here:
http://thewrx.netfirms.com/dl/3002.pdf
I finally got a chance to read through the owners manual completely, and I am going to redo the power testing, I didn't know about the impedance matching switch, or how to bridge it. A new report will be up on the weekend.
[ November 11, 2004, 08:34 PM: Message edited by: Dave_MacKinnon ]
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lol - when I read the tested power was 75x2 the first thing I thought was that maybe it was on the low impedance taps [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]
We used to "cheat" and leave them on the high impedance taps and run them with the lower impedance. For those unfamiliar with LP that means configuring the amp for 8 ohm mono and running it at 4 ohm. lol - no 1 ohm loads back in the day [img]tongue.gif[/img]
We used to "cheat" and leave them on the high impedance taps and run them with the lower impedance. For those unfamiliar with LP that means configuring the amp for 8 ohm mono and running it at 4 ohm. lol - no 1 ohm loads back in the day [img]tongue.gif[/img]
