Battery relocated to the trunk - fuse amp
#1
Battery relocated to the trunk - fuse amp
my battery has been relocated to the trunk by the previous owner (required for engine bay space)
I want to be on the safe side and put a fuse inline, what amperage is needed?
alternator is 90amp
anymore info required, let me know
thanks
I want to be on the safe side and put a fuse inline, what amperage is needed?
alternator is 90amp
anymore info required, let me know
thanks
#2
E\IR... Volts\Amps*Resistance in Ohms. take the voltage of the battery (assuming 12v) and go buy yourself a cheap multimeter at wal-mart and measure the resistance. 12\whatever the resistance is = needed amps. check yourself easily before buying fuses, and take the amps * the resistance and make sure it comes out to 12v or whatever volts you're running.
Hope I could be of some help,
Scypher
Hope I could be of some help,
Scypher
#3
Im not sure I understand exactly what you are asking, but I think you want a fuse between the alternator and the battery?
If that is the case, you want a fuse that is rated for at least the output of the alternator, which is 90 amps.
If that is the case, you want a fuse that is rated for at least the output of the alternator, which is 90 amps.
#4
well i want to put the fuse, about 12" from the battery....it is my understanding that if i were to be hit on the side where the wire is running to the engine bay then it could pinch/cut the wire and short out causing a fire
if that were to happen (accident) a fire is the last thing i want to worry about so hence the desire for an inline fuse
scypher23: where would i be checking the resistance across?
if that were to happen (accident) a fire is the last thing i want to worry about so hence the desire for an inline fuse
scypher23: where would i be checking the resistance across?
#5
(GrizZz here, wife's PC)
If you're putting the fuse on the line between the battery and everything else, you're going to need a lot more than a 90amp fuse. A starter will draw 100 amps, on a good day. Add cold weather or high compression engines or whatever, and you're gonna need at least a 150amp fuse.
I'd stick a 200 in.
If you're putting the fuse on the line between the battery and everything else, you're going to need a lot more than a 90amp fuse. A starter will draw 100 amps, on a good day. Add cold weather or high compression engines or whatever, and you're gonna need at least a 150amp fuse.
I'd stick a 200 in.
#6
Originally Posted by GrizZzled
(GrizZz here, wife's PC)
If you're putting the fuse on the line between the battery and everything else, you're going to need a lot more than a 90amp fuse. A starter will draw 100 amps, on a good day. Add cold weather or high compression engines or whatever, and you're gonna need at least a 150amp fuse.
I'd stick a 200 in.
If you're putting the fuse on the line between the battery and everything else, you're going to need a lot more than a 90amp fuse. A starter will draw 100 amps, on a good day. Add cold weather or high compression engines or whatever, and you're gonna need at least a 150amp fuse.
I'd stick a 200 in.
anyone seen any good ones? would a breaker be a good idea?
#8
Originally Posted by Newb
Any ANL fuse holder is fine. You could even toss a 300 in it, you're really only fusing the battery from discharging into the frame.
Circuit breakers can fail, fuses don't, so that settles that IMO.
Circuit breakers can fail, fuses don't, so that settles that IMO.
#10
i'm not exactly sure lol i'm still fairly new but i have a little experience. A 200amp fuse would be good enough on a regular car with room to spare. so you could go with that... i know that my way works but i'm still unsure of how to effieciantly measure the resistance. 200amps'll do ya good though. maybe a little over 150 if money becomes an issue