3hone

Hi all, I'm in the market for a 6.5" component set. Some recent research led me to this site:

http://www.bestcovery.com/best-65-component-speaker-system-overall

Anyone with personal experience on the 1st and 2nd place winners?

I've searched for opinions regarding the DLS UP6i (& iridiums), PPI 356cs and CDT ES-0642i. I know most opinions regarding sound is highly subjective but is it safe to assume that the Big $$$$ systems according to this article are better than the best high end or best overall categories?

I'm running a Boston ProSeries 6.5x component set at the moment. When tuned and installed right, the SQ does sound good. I feel like I need some comparisons in the same vehicle to really know.

3hone

Oh, and I forgot to mention, if anyone has any other suggestions feel free.

thumpper

iTrader: (1)

I have not yet found any set of components that out perform the JBL 660gti's
(compared to anything at any price)

the DLS Scandinavia Series would be my second choice...Focals would be third

vrdublu

iTrader: (5)

I could put together a 6.5"-7" component set minus the passive network that would equal if not improve on those for half the price.

Two of these for beautifull midrange and superb midbass:http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=296-600
Or Two of these if you need a little more variety: http://solen.ca/pub/cms_nf_catalogue_fiche.php?id=2289&recherche=&numR ows=&manufacturiers=38&niveau1=&niveau2=&niveau3=

Two of these for off axis placement:http://solen.ca/pub/cms_nf_catalogue_fiche.php?id=2184&recherche=&numR ows=&manufacturiers=47&niveau1=&niveau2=&niveau3=
Or Two of these if you're going to fire them direct:http://solen.ca/pub/cms_nf_catalogue_fiche.php?id=2286&recherche=&numR ows=&manufacturiers=38&niveau1=&niveau2=&niveau3=

In my opinion you would be hard pressed to beat the combination of speakers I have noted at any price. As you mentioned earlier though it's all personal preference, but if you can spend less, why wouldn't you.

3hone

Vrdublu, are you able to let me know why you picked the Usher 8945A over the 8945P with phase plug?

Also these have a power rating at 80W at 8ohms. If my amp is quoted at 110W at 4ohms, this puts me in around 55W at 8ohms? Is it important for the amp to be running all channels with the same resistance ie 4ohm?

kevmurray

I'm a big fan of using home audio drivers too. The impedance is not really a big issue since there are many car amps capable of delivering the required power now days. Unless you want it really loud your current amp will be enough until the upgrade bug bites you again . You might even consider going to an active crossover setup some day. As far as the above mentioned drivers go, they are excellent choices and there are many other home drivers worth considering including 4 ohm ones. I wish I could comment on your original choices but they are way out of my price range and I prefer to find craftier (ie:cheaper) ways of getting the same performance.

vrdublu

iTrader: (5)

Go with the 8945P, that's actually what I wanted to post in all honesty but somehow I thought it was the 8945A that was the 4ohm driver. The A series driver has a better more ruler like response then the P, but the P series driver has less harmonic distortion. Stick top the 8945P series for car audio. To be honest for the money I might even go with the SB Acoustics SB17NRX35, it's midrande HD is excellent and will allow you to cross over a little higher on the tweeter. Again as I have stated in previous posts, system design and implementation is more important then driver selection, or should I say wrong driver selection for a given application. If you're going to use a tweeter such as the SB29RDCN-C000-4 in the A-Pillar with either of the mids, your system will suffer. On the other hand if you use the TB tweeter in the A-Pillar and the mids in the doors slighltly angled up and towards the listener, now you're that much closer to achieveing listener nirvana. Unfortunately all those speaker manufacturers you showed earlier selling those expensive component sets forgot to mention all these things, "lost in translation" I suppose, or I think it's called "money" in many parts of the world.

3hone

Woofers will be in the front doors, Dynamat on the inner panel. Tweeters on the A pillars. The car in question is a MK4 Golf. The doors feel fairly solid but I guess is considered an infinite baffle installation. I do have everything to run 3-way so that is my direction. Anyone with suggestions regarding the Dayton RS180-4 7" as a IB midwoofer?

vrdublu

iTrader: (5)

Oddly enough I too am setup for 3-way front stage and I'm currently going with an A/D/S 1" tweeter, only cause I got it really cheap and like what I hear, otherwise I was going to go with the TB tweeter which has superb off axis response. This btw is also going into the A-pillar. For mids I'm running the 2" Dayton PRS series dome mid in a custom fabbed side mirror cover on axis. And I'll be running either the Ushers or the SB or the CSS trio 8 in the doors if I can fit them. If I can get the 8's in the door, I won't be running subs, if I get the 6.5's in the doors then I'll run 2x10" A/D/S subs in the rear deck.

3hone

My problem with running active is the fact that I would need another amp. My car is a work horse where space and weight are an issue. The reason I've asked about comps is due to the fact that I would not have to buy another amp, run another set of wire and spend time down and tuning without a sound system. Comps I can drop in. Any one with experience with the Pioneer C720PRS. A lot of testing in forums are not in infinite baffle applications making me think a kit like this might be designed for off axis, IB...