ReeSe

HI,
i have a new set up(still in construction) in a car i just bought recently(00 tiburon 2L engine)

the set up is 100% bang for the buck oriented...
2X80W rms for the car main speakers(1 amp 400w total)
2X80W rms for auxilliary or added speakers(1 amp 400w total same as the other one)
1X170W rms for the sub( another amp 480W peak)
total speaker countdown will be between 10-15 speakers in the car,including the sub and two super tweeter but not including component speakers or coax...I m more into sound quality and power over 50hz than a 130 db bass at 30hz witch i totally dislike....

So for now there is only 4 speaker (Two pionner 6,5 in and two pionner 6X8 wired to one of the two 400W amp) and a 10 inch clarion sub tunned near 45hz wired to the 480W amp.
the only but MAJOR problem is that the car staals when the ingine is idling with the volume a little loud and i cant start it back...i have to wait 2 or 3 sec before the electrical power comes back...or somes times the head unit just shuts of and starts back with no reason...

What is this?I had the same set up or about the same in another car and i had no problem...and whats is disturbing me is that the car battery still have plenty of power after his 2 sec shut off the car starts back like nothing had ever happened?any idea?

JohnVroom

sounds electrical, check ALL your electrical connections make sure they are tight and not frayed at all. Ensure it is properly fused as there is an issue that appears to be electrical... safety first. Do you have a Digital Multi-Meter? Use it to test system voltages

1- car audio shouldn't do this EVER
2- a small system makes this even more far fetched
3- even then the car shouldn't stall EVER, the car has issues too

ReeSe

I know that it ain t suposed to do this....
my power wires are kind of small (AWG 8) but i have a little 40 amp fuse and it never blew up....
beside that my voltage are ok one of my amp has digital display where you can see the input voltage and the output power....i got 13.5V in with the car running and like 12.9 with the car runing on his battery...

could a capacitor be a chaep issue?...because i dont want to spend money on the mechanic since that when the amps are not runnig evrything is fine, exept the idle that is a litle low and moves a litle(500-1000 rpm for like 2-3 sec than stabilise at 700)

Killer_klown187

iTrader: (20)

Wait a second, You have 3 amps running off of 8ga wire? and a 40 amp fuse that hasn't melted and caught fire yet???

I assume that you have your power wire right to the battery?

sunfired

iTrader: (-1)

How does your voltage look when the car actually stalls out? I would agree with jvroom on checking all you connections, i had a car that did the same thing, turned out to be a weak battery and the amp sucked more amperage than the alternator could supply. You could possibly have a bad connection at the battery.

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

Sounds to me like your alternator is not charging the battery at idle (normal in some cases), meaning you are relying on the battery to both keep the car running and power the stereo. Turning the stereo off, I bet the car does not stall at all, correct? Turning the stereo up is drawing more current than the battery has available to keep both the stereo running and the car running and one of the two is going to die, if not both. Sit with the car in neutral and idle, then take the rpm's up to 1500 and see if the vehicle dies as you turn the volume up to where it would normally cause the car to die.

ReeSe

thats right i have 3 amps running on a 8 gauge with a 50 amp fuse and i ve never blew it the wires arent hot and the car does not always stall it just happen sometimes when i am at like 360w rms...or so, and the car have to be stopped and when the car stalls the power is a little over 12v
and yes i'm plugged direcly on the battery for the +(12ft)
and on the fraame for the ground(2ft)
then the power jumps from apm 1 to amp 2(the two 400w)by a 1ft cable(+12 and ground)
and the other amp(500W) is plugged with another wire that comes from a splitter copper box(+) and grond comes from the frame but from another place.
that being said, there is now short cut anywhere and all my voltages are ok

U guys want pics of the amps set up

stephenfleming

iTrader: (1)

I think MR2NR has hit this one on the head.

Its not a system issue.
Have your alt and battery checked, at least one is bad.
I had a problem simliar, car would be ok driving, come to a stop it died.
Alt was bad.

Get it checked out asap, you dont want to get stuck in an intersection or anything like that.
Then have a look at your system, it'll perform much better when it gets the proper current and voltage.

ReeSe

ok...turned out to be something else....
the alt is ok and the battery to ...there is something related to the ignition that makes the idle extremely low, rarely but it happens... without amps running the engine is able to "restart" but if the amps are on they use the litle current remaning in the system that normaly helps the engine to restart...used a digital tachometer to test it my idle gets down at 200RPM somethimes

But a litle last thing what is the maximum current that a 8 gauge wire can support...they say 200W RMS but I know that it ain t right it s more than that...just to know what kind of fuse to use to make shure that the car does not catch fire

and for those who are interested to know how does the set up looks i ve include a quick drawing i did before starting the project a couple of weeks ago

ReeSe

any one for the power handling of a 8 gauge and what kind of fuse to use with?