Emerald

Well, Ive got the amp in with an extra Optima red top switched by a Stinger Relay.

I dont think I'll be getting enough power to the amp.

Im running it at 2ohm, using 2 Alpine Type-X subs.

Im starting to think it was a mistake buying this amp and should get sumthing a little less 'greedy'.

Trojan

iTrader: (2)

2 ohm with two batteries will be fine.

bobthebrat

Just so everyone else knows. this is a 17v amp
http://www.dynamicsoundcaraudio.net/item.cfm?product_id=51
I have never played with a 17v amp, so I don't know how much power they really need. I'd just hate to have it, cause my alt already hates my amp.

1200rms amp running at 1ohm + 4 black light tubes + head lights + the rest of the stereo = Volts dropping below 12. And this is while the car is running :P

JordyO

iTrader: (17)

You might want to be careful on how you choose your words...

This isn't a "17v" amp.. that implies that it won't work on anything below 17v.

Even the page you posted a link to shows the ratings for 14.4v.... sure, it won't put out as much power, so the specs are weaker but it's not a problem to run it on a standard 12/14v system.

smpl_gy

Basically what that means is the power supply in the amp is unregulated and more voltage = more wattage same current draw. These were used back in the day as "cheat" or "trick" amps. The amp is fully capable of running at 14.4 volts however, they can handle 17 volts if its presented. I cant think of any off-the-shelf alternators that can produce that kind of voltage. The guys who usually take advantage of the unregulated power supply thing usually goes all out and has alternators custom made and is integrated ONLY into the audio system with extra batteries etc, not the rest of the car...

smpl_gy

As for your voltage dropping below 12v. have you done the "big three" ? Do you have a capacitor ?

Emerald

Thanks for the help guys!!

Whats 'The Big 3'??

Trojan

iTrader: (2)

Upgrading your alt, ground to engine, and ground to frame wire to 4 gauge or better.

smpl_gy

basically, the theory behind the "big 3" is if a device is drawing current through a certain size conducter, the return path should be the same size. As trojan said; upgrade the battery negative to chassis, the alternator positive to the battery and you will have to add a wire from the alternator to the chassis. This should be done with same size gauge wire you're using from your battery positive to amp...

Emerald

Oh, I see

Well, the car comes stock with 2 batterries that are mounted on either side of the trunk. The ground is parallel between the 2 batteries and ground at the back of the trunk.

I have the CDX20A isolated with an extra battery and grounded to the same common grounding point via 0 gauge wires. The Alt puts out 170, but I dont know of any upgrades that will work with the car. Has VERY sensitive electronics that I dont want to mess with

The only thing running off the stock electrical system is a 7" LCD. Everything else runs on the Aux battery.



I may just go with a smaller amp