Fatmat
03-19-2005, 04:47 PM
#11
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 756
the cost is $100 american for 100 sq.ft.
Nope, Canadian, not American. I got mine through an industrial rubber place, Re/Max Rubber in Calgary. Look up "Rubber" in your local Yellow Pages. 1/8 was overkill, 1/16 would've been good enough, so if you can get any thinner than 1/8 go for it. Get some good contact cement. Like I said, after doing the van, it's as solid as a tank, so ya, it would be good for floors and roofs...
It is heavy though, my roll weighed 80 pounds, so it's a pound per square foot. Only one of mine has fallen off, and it was because I hadn't used enough glue on the one piece. No sitcky mess, it's just dry contact cement. I just put some more glue on and slapped it back on. This was a few years ago, and none else has fallen off since. Since it's a bare wall work van, it's pretty easy to reglue a piece on if one should fall again. Cosmetics don't matter, and no panels go over it, all the structural steel still has no deadener at all. I could & should do more, but all the tinny reverberations that I had before I did it is gone, so it's not a priority anymore.
I think it is the correct product for my application. Cost aside, for the 80 sq ft of flat surfaces in my van, I don't think stereo shop deadeners could do as good a job in only one layer, unless you go right out and mix some lead shot into whatever you're applying. And working with batteries for a living, I'm exposed to enough lead, I don't need it in my van.
I can't see dollar store extension cords or coat hangers being all that great of a substitute. I do use commercial cable and wire though, welding cable instead of pretty red stereo cable, and some ugly speaker wire... but it's twisted 12ga. double insulated commercial speaker wire, so it does the job as good as pretty much anything. Chrome & brand names don't make things work better, attention to details does.
Edit: As you can see in the picture, I did both horizontal and vertical. I also did inside the front doors, a vast improvement.
[ March 19, 2005, 05:50 PM: Message edited by: GrizZz ]
Nope, Canadian, not American. I got mine through an industrial rubber place, Re/Max Rubber in Calgary. Look up "Rubber" in your local Yellow Pages. 1/8 was overkill, 1/16 would've been good enough, so if you can get any thinner than 1/8 go for it. Get some good contact cement. Like I said, after doing the van, it's as solid as a tank, so ya, it would be good for floors and roofs...
It is heavy though, my roll weighed 80 pounds, so it's a pound per square foot. Only one of mine has fallen off, and it was because I hadn't used enough glue on the one piece. No sitcky mess, it's just dry contact cement. I just put some more glue on and slapped it back on. This was a few years ago, and none else has fallen off since. Since it's a bare wall work van, it's pretty easy to reglue a piece on if one should fall again. Cosmetics don't matter, and no panels go over it, all the structural steel still has no deadener at all. I could & should do more, but all the tinny reverberations that I had before I did it is gone, so it's not a priority anymore.
I think it is the correct product for my application. Cost aside, for the 80 sq ft of flat surfaces in my van, I don't think stereo shop deadeners could do as good a job in only one layer, unless you go right out and mix some lead shot into whatever you're applying. And working with batteries for a living, I'm exposed to enough lead, I don't need it in my van.
I can't see dollar store extension cords or coat hangers being all that great of a substitute. I do use commercial cable and wire though, welding cable instead of pretty red stereo cable, and some ugly speaker wire... but it's twisted 12ga. double insulated commercial speaker wire, so it does the job as good as pretty much anything. Chrome & brand names don't make things work better, attention to details does.
Edit: As you can see in the picture, I did both horizontal and vertical. I also did inside the front doors, a vast improvement.
[ March 19, 2005, 05:50 PM: Message edited by: GrizZz ]
03-19-2005, 11:47 PM
#13
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 756
Well that's an answer to a question I've asked before...
What rule does it break? It's under 4mm. It's available to anyone that wants to buy it. It's only one layer thick, and you're allowed to hit doors with a layer of dampener in front of the B pillar. What am I missing?
What rule does it break? It's under 4mm. It's available to anyone that wants to buy it. It's only one layer thick, and you're allowed to hit doors with a layer of dampener in front of the B pillar. What am I missing?
03-20-2005, 09:45 AM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by Haunz:
ah **** you want to go really cheap.. go check out a roofing supply shop.... you can find all kinds of different matt at fractions...
Kind of like buying plain 1/0 at princess auto for the same price as fancey colored 8awg at your local stereo shop.... [img]tongue.gif[/img]
ah **** you want to go really cheap.. go check out a roofing supply shop.... you can find all kinds of different matt at fractions...
Kind of like buying plain 1/0 at princess auto for the same price as fancey colored 8awg at your local stereo shop.... [img]tongue.gif[/img]
'Ice Dam' and similar products are meant to help seal the leading edge of your roof from water creep due to potential ice build up during the winter. The adhesive is only there to keep it in place until the shingles are nailed over it.
To me that does not sound like a 'sound deadener'. The fact that it is dense, semi-flexible and adhesive may give allow it to mimick some of the properties of a sound deadening mat but then so does a day old pancake with some contact cement.
Brown Bread and B-quiet aren't all that expensive for the job they do.
03-20-2005, 12:54 PM
#17
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 756
The rules state that it must be commercially available, not that it has to be an actual made-for-audio product. From what I can tell, DbDrag is a competition of hobbyists, not just a competition of car audio manufacturers. Manufacturers are heavily involved sure, but they're not a requirement. If I'm wrong in that statement, please let me know now.
If one disallows an alternative deadener solution, merely because it's not sold AS a sound deadener, then in the same breath should they disallow welding cable instead of red "stereo cable", lead or brass battery clamps instead of pretty gold ones from a stereo shop, everyday wire; or, coat hangers, instead of pretty stereo shop speaker wire, fuses that aren't "made for audio", batteries that aren't designed for car audio, etc. etc? It all does the same job, sometimes cheaper, sometimes better, and sometimes not. That's how things get invented and/or improved, by stingy old codgers like myself that look for a "better or cheaper way to do it".
I stand behind my rubber (your joke goes here, Dustin, Tyler, or anyone that wishes
). I'd LOVE to test it "head to head" somehow sometime against a layer or two of normal sound deadners... I think it may raise a few eyebrows. Maybe I'm sitting on the next sound deadener breakthrough! I should go get another roll and do all the structural steel too... Hey... maybe I should shaddup and run over to the patent office
If one disallows an alternative deadener solution, merely because it's not sold AS a sound deadener, then in the same breath should they disallow welding cable instead of red "stereo cable", lead or brass battery clamps instead of pretty gold ones from a stereo shop, everyday wire; or, coat hangers, instead of pretty stereo shop speaker wire, fuses that aren't "made for audio", batteries that aren't designed for car audio, etc. etc? It all does the same job, sometimes cheaper, sometimes better, and sometimes not. That's how things get invented and/or improved, by stingy old codgers like myself that look for a "better or cheaper way to do it".
I stand behind my rubber (your joke goes here, Dustin, Tyler, or anyone that wishes
). I'd LOVE to test it "head to head" somehow sometime against a layer or two of normal sound deadners... I think it may raise a few eyebrows. Maybe I'm sitting on the next sound deadener breakthrough! I should go get another roll and do all the structural steel too... Hey... maybe I should shaddup and run over to the patent office
03-22-2005, 07:10 AM
#20
Originally posted by Dukk:
Which member tried tar paper?
Which member tried tar paper?
Later I tried some contact cement and it worked pretty damn well.... 2 layers of paper/cement was pretty heavy duty, bout .6lbs per square foot...
Edit: it obviously takes longer to put in, but 400^square feet of paper and 2 gal of cement would do a whole car for $75....
[ March 22, 2005, 08:17 AM: Message edited by: Haunz ]
