Fuse, Power, dynomatt, box questions
11-16-2009, 09:18 PM
#1
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 9
Fuse, Power, dynomatt, box questions
I have a bunch of questions so bear with me please...
i recently bought two 10" Pioneer premiers TS-W2501D2: Dual 2 ohm. Got them in a sealed generic box running off a JL 500/1, but today just grabbed a JL 1000/1.
ok question #1 not so much a problem but JL's website suggests 100amp fuse, while the person i got the amp from said he ran a 200 amp fuse and 100 isnt enough. I had to upgrade from the old glass style fuses because clearly the 80 amp fuses i blew 3 of today were not cutting it. So i ordered a 100, 120 and 150 amp fuses and fuse holder. bear in mind i will be taking the 4 channel from my other car and adding it to this system
What size fuse should i really be running?
Question #2
I was having major voltage drops (i think) with the 500/1 that would shut the amp and cap off. i did the "big 2" lol because the power wire on the alternator was not just a simple nut and bolt.. figured my 65 amp alternator will need to be replaced soon enough anyway and would do it then. But today hooking up the 1000/1 before the fuse would blow, running like 2/3rds volume the cap would run down to the 11's and then 10 and both amp and cap shut off.
i know the stock alternator needs to be replaced but without doing that what else could i do to keep my voltage higher? will a new better battery help with this?
Question #3
the box for these subs seems to small and not sure weather i should stay sealed or go ported? leaning towards ported.. can some one point me in the right direction for building a box myself?
Question #4
This one is kinda stupid, but is dynomatt or any other sound dampening stuff worth using in small sections? i hope to buy a new car in a year or so and dont want to go all out on this one. Is it stupid to do just doors or just trunk?
i recently bought two 10" Pioneer premiers TS-W2501D2: Dual 2 ohm. Got them in a sealed generic box running off a JL 500/1, but today just grabbed a JL 1000/1.
ok question #1 not so much a problem but JL's website suggests 100amp fuse, while the person i got the amp from said he ran a 200 amp fuse and 100 isnt enough. I had to upgrade from the old glass style fuses because clearly the 80 amp fuses i blew 3 of today were not cutting it. So i ordered a 100, 120 and 150 amp fuses and fuse holder. bear in mind i will be taking the 4 channel from my other car and adding it to this system
What size fuse should i really be running?
Question #2
I was having major voltage drops (i think) with the 500/1 that would shut the amp and cap off. i did the "big 2" lol because the power wire on the alternator was not just a simple nut and bolt.. figured my 65 amp alternator will need to be replaced soon enough anyway and would do it then. But today hooking up the 1000/1 before the fuse would blow, running like 2/3rds volume the cap would run down to the 11's and then 10 and both amp and cap shut off.
i know the stock alternator needs to be replaced but without doing that what else could i do to keep my voltage higher? will a new better battery help with this?
Question #3
the box for these subs seems to small and not sure weather i should stay sealed or go ported? leaning towards ported.. can some one point me in the right direction for building a box myself?
Question #4
This one is kinda stupid, but is dynomatt or any other sound dampening stuff worth using in small sections? i hope to buy a new car in a year or so and dont want to go all out on this one. Is it stupid to do just doors or just trunk?
11-16-2009, 09:42 PM
#2
Answer 1:
Your going to need to run AT LEAST 4awg wiring with a 150A fuse for that 1000/1. Make sure your subs are wired correctly, at a 2 ohm load.
Answer 2:
Its unfortunate that the BIG 3 cannot be completed on your car. It might be time to ditch the cap and run an extra batt in the trunk, or, upgrate your starter batt to something deep cycle. Also, having quality wiring (not some bullsh!t 4awg thats truly 6awg) will help. ALso make sure you have suffice grounds
Answer 3:
3 cubic feet tuned @ 36hz ( I can help you with a design)
Answer 4:
Sound deadening works when applied correctly, and to the right areas of your car. Small pieces here and there wont have a major effect.
Your going to need to run AT LEAST 4awg wiring with a 150A fuse for that 1000/1. Make sure your subs are wired correctly, at a 2 ohm load.
Answer 2:
Its unfortunate that the BIG 3 cannot be completed on your car. It might be time to ditch the cap and run an extra batt in the trunk, or, upgrate your starter batt to something deep cycle. Also, having quality wiring (not some bullsh!t 4awg thats truly 6awg) will help. ALso make sure you have suffice grounds
Answer 3:
3 cubic feet tuned @ 36hz ( I can help you with a design)
Answer 4:
Sound deadening works when applied correctly, and to the right areas of your car. Small pieces here and there wont have a major effect.
11-17-2009, 12:33 AM
#3
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 9
cool thanks for the help. i am running 4awg right now but the only place around selling the 0awg is at $10.99 a foot. think i can find a better deal then that.
Is running another battery in the trunk THAT much worse on the charging system? also any suggestions on best battery for the buck i can usually get atleast 40% discount at lordco
ohh and any help with the box would be much appreciated!
Is running another battery in the trunk THAT much worse on the charging system? also any suggestions on best battery for the buck i can usually get atleast 40% discount at lordco
ohh and any help with the box would be much appreciated!
11-17-2009, 07:19 AM
#4
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 146
If your alternator cannot keep up with the load, additional batteries or better batteries will only prolong the inevitible, they do not generate power - they only store it. They will loose power and your sytem will follow. An improved battery supply will allow you to play a little biit longer before the v-drop but the only answer at that point is lower your power demand until recharged. BTW, deep cycle batteries are not designed to handle a sudden discharge like cranking your engine over on a really cold morning so I'm not sure that you would want to swap out the main battery for a deep cycle.
11-17-2009, 10:13 AM
#5
cool thanks for the help. i am running 4awg right now but the only place around selling the 0awg is at $10.99 a foot. think i can find a better deal then that.
Is running another battery in the trunk THAT much worse on the charging system? also any suggestions on best battery for the buck i can usually get atleast 40% discount at lordco
ohh and any help with the box would be much appreciated!
Is running another battery in the trunk THAT much worse on the charging system? also any suggestions on best battery for the buck i can usually get atleast 40% discount at lordco
ohh and any help with the box would be much appreciated!
11-17-2009, 04:57 PM
#6
Yankee
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,599
fundamental issue is the 65 amp alternator... when will the batteries get to charge when the stereo is pulling over 100 amps... you need to either upgrade the alternator or be disciplined enough to charge up your batteries prior to turning your car off at the end of the day (with the stereo off it could still take 15 minutes or so to get the system back to 13 or 14 volts ). Winter is coming don't screw yourself
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