HELP! Front Stage setting on Alpine deck
09-26-2005, 12:33 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
If you choose Setting #1 the "Front" RCAs are now for a tweeter, and the "Rear" RCAs are for a midrange.
So if you have a 2way component set and enough amp channels(4 for the front and then a sub amp too), you want #1.
[ September 26, 2005, 01:33 PM: Message edited by: Dukk ]
So if you have a 2way component set and enough amp channels(4 for the front and then a sub amp too), you want #1.
[ September 26, 2005, 01:33 PM: Message edited by: Dukk ]
09-26-2005, 12:48 PM
#3
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 12
thanks Paul
this is what i have
5 channel PPI5440
30x4 120x1
component kaption MPT w/ tweeters
so...
this is the set up
deck setting as 3way
front RCA to tweeter
rear RCA to mids
sub RCA to sub
i believe this is the correct way?
this is what i have
5 channel PPI5440
30x4 120x1
component kaption MPT w/ tweeters
so...
this is the set up
deck setting as 3way
front RCA to tweeter
rear RCA to mids
sub RCA to sub
i believe this is the correct way?
09-28-2005, 06:11 PM
#7
If all of the 4 channels will be driving the front stage only so each tweeter and mid have a dedicated channel then the 3 way position is correct. What I would personally do is put the switch into the front/rear/sub setting and use the passive crossovers that came with the comps to divide the signal and bridge each side of the amp down. This will give you much more headroom, but will eliminate your ability to run the front end active if that is what you were after..
09-28-2005, 06:41 PM
#8
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 870
I'd say you'll have to try it both ways, to be sure what will satisfy your ear.
30watts might be a bit weak for the mids, if you need 'em to produce any volume below 100Hz.
Bridging the amp will gain 5 or 6dB, but you'll lose 3dB from the passives, so it might not be worth the loss of adjustablity that active offers..
The passives should have a bit of R&D spent on em, that you'll have to duplicate with some time tweakin', tunin, and (God forbid) the risk of poppin' your tweets, but they weren't designed for your specific vehicle/install, so active will probably prove to be the better choice.
Be careful!
Tweeters don't give you much warning when you are driving them too low.....the factory smoke escapes, and it's game over!!!
Good luck. Let us know your results!!.
[ September 28, 2005, 07:48 PM: Message edited by: Car Trek ]
30watts might be a bit weak for the mids, if you need 'em to produce any volume below 100Hz.
Bridging the amp will gain 5 or 6dB, but you'll lose 3dB from the passives, so it might not be worth the loss of adjustablity that active offers..
The passives should have a bit of R&D spent on em, that you'll have to duplicate with some time tweakin', tunin, and (God forbid) the risk of poppin' your tweets, but they weren't designed for your specific vehicle/install, so active will probably prove to be the better choice.
Be careful!
Tweeters don't give you much warning when you are driving them too low.....the factory smoke escapes, and it's game over!!!
Good luck. Let us know your results!!.
[ September 28, 2005, 07:48 PM: Message edited by: Car Trek ]
09-29-2005, 05:53 AM
#9
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 12
the problem is that when i brought my component, my friend (seller) lost the passive crossovers.. so i m stuck on a front stage...
in terms of the tweeters...
what should i set the crossover at?
in terms of the mids..
what should i set the crossover from where to where?
sorry.. but i m not so familiar with the crossovers
note: my components are Kaption MPT 6.5
and thanks alot for the help
in terms of the tweeters...
what should i set the crossover at?
in terms of the mids..
what should i set the crossover from where to where?
sorry.. but i m not so familiar with the crossovers
note: my components are Kaption MPT 6.5
and thanks alot for the help
09-29-2005, 06:06 AM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
your friend not giving you the passives is a blessing. your ppi amp likley will give you more like 40-45 watts per channel which is just fine for your mids. i wouldnt cross the tweeters over any lower than 2.8k at 24db/octave, you can get away with slightly lower but watch your volume, start with 3.2k at 18db/octave hipass to the tweeter and 3.2k at 18db/ octave lopass to the mid and 63hz at 18db/octave and listen and make you adjustments from there. these crossover points will give you a good base to start from and shouldnt harm the tweeters
