How big of a fuse do ya think?
03-30-2006, 07:00 PM
#21
Originally Posted by juggernautxtr
i was an electrician for 13 years not in one of those years did i fuse for wire size, but for what the equipment required for fuse rating. so you use a 12 guage wire(20 amps max usa, 25 amps in canada)your currant draw is 10 amps half the wires ability. your protecting the equipment so you use a 10 amp fuse. rule of the electrician screw the wire size protect the equipment.
basically over sizing fuses is asking for problems, your gonna wait for 350 amps of draw before you let the fuse blow?
7018 5/32 (equivlent to an 8 gauge wire) welding rods melts at 145 amps 19.2 volts
average car battery 12-14 volts 500+ amps how long do you think that 1/0 will last under that condition?
basically over sizing fuses is asking for problems, your gonna wait for 350 amps of draw before you let the fuse blow?
7018 5/32 (equivlent to an 8 gauge wire) welding rods melts at 145 amps 19.2 volts
average car battery 12-14 volts 500+ amps how long do you think that 1/0 will last under that condition?
This thread is so full of misimformation it's not even funny.
03-30-2006, 07:47 PM
#22
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 50
melt and welding is the same word gee! i guess i am an idiot
7018 5/32 (equivlent to an 8 gauge wire) welding rods melts at 145 amps 19.2 volts<---where in here does it say weld?
145 amps to weld 5/32 rod with? Wow. Must be that new low amperage style welding rod. <--obviously doesnt read very well and has no clue about how transformers work
do i have to explain how welding machines work? or do we have another half a brain trying to take over the world with misconception and assumption made in his own mind to claim glory?
145 amps to weld 5/32 rod with? Wow. Must be that new low amperage style welding rod. <--obviously doesnt read very well and has no clue about how transformers work
do i have to explain how welding machines work? or do we have another half a brain trying to take over the world with misconception and assumption made in his own mind to claim glory?
03-30-2006, 07:56 PM
#23
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 50
the point is
if your currant draw is even only a 1/4 of what the wire will handle you still only fuse for maximum currant draw of your device(s)
you dont fuse a 8 gauge wire at 60 amps cause the wire can handle that much when you are only useing 10 amps of it.
you dont fuse a 8 gauge wire at 60 amps cause the wire can handle that much when you are only useing 10 amps of it.
03-30-2006, 10:52 PM
#24
Originally Posted by juggernautxtr
7018 5/32 (equivlent to an 8 gauge wire) welding rods melts at 145 amps 19.2 volts<---where in here does it say weld?
145 amps to weld 5/32 rod with? Wow. Must be that new low amperage style welding rod. <--obviously doesnt read very well and has no clue about how transformers work
do i have to explain how welding machines work? or do we have another half a brain trying to take over the world with misconception and assumption made in his own mind to claim glory?
145 amps to weld 5/32 rod with? Wow. Must be that new low amperage style welding rod. <--obviously doesnt read very well and has no clue about how transformers work
do i have to explain how welding machines work? or do we have another half a brain trying to take over the world with misconception and assumption made in his own mind to claim glory?
It does say melt. I'll give you that one.
03-30-2006, 11:19 PM
#26
Originally Posted by Drew
FUSE???? Who need a fuse eh Martin?
But what do I know, I don't use fuses. :P
Only thing I've used as a fuse in the last 2 years is a 1/4 dr rachet and 12" piece of 1/0. They seemed to warn me pretty quick.
03-31-2006, 01:30 AM
#27
Taken directly from www.bcae1.com
"Most amplifiers draw significant amounts of current (too much current to be drawn from the vehicle's fuse box). This means that you will have to make a connection to a more suitable point. Most of the time, the main power wire is connected to the battery's positive terminal. Since the battery is capable of supplying more than 1000 amps of current and your power wire can't likely safely carry that much current, you MUST have an inline fuse (this can not be stressed enough). The fuse must be rated to protect the power wire being used. If the power wire was unfused and accidentally shorted to ground, the wire and the vehicle would soon be fully engulfed in flames. The fuse holder should be between 6 and 18 inches from the battery. If it's too close to a standard lead acid battery, the fuse and holder may corrode like the positive battery terminal does. If it's too far away, it will not provide the required protection because there is too much unprotected wire (between the battery and the fuse). "
This site has been posted so much lately, that it should be read before searching with basic question, avoiding tons of misinformation....
Mark
"Most amplifiers draw significant amounts of current (too much current to be drawn from the vehicle's fuse box). This means that you will have to make a connection to a more suitable point. Most of the time, the main power wire is connected to the battery's positive terminal. Since the battery is capable of supplying more than 1000 amps of current and your power wire can't likely safely carry that much current, you MUST have an inline fuse (this can not be stressed enough). The fuse must be rated to protect the power wire being used. If the power wire was unfused and accidentally shorted to ground, the wire and the vehicle would soon be fully engulfed in flames. The fuse holder should be between 6 and 18 inches from the battery. If it's too close to a standard lead acid battery, the fuse and holder may corrode like the positive battery terminal does. If it's too far away, it will not provide the required protection because there is too much unprotected wire (between the battery and the fuse). "
This site has been posted so much lately, that it should be read before searching with basic question, avoiding tons of misinformation....
Mark
03-31-2006, 02:44 PM
#28
Administrator
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 16,855
How about we split the difference and say that the underhood fuse CAN be sized to the total current draw of the equipment but should NEVER exceed the limit of the cable?
Does that make everyone happy?
Oh and one should re-fuse everytime the cable steps down in gauge - like out of a distribution block, to make sure the smaller cable is still adequately protected.
Does that make everyone happy?
Oh and one should re-fuse everytime the cable steps down in gauge - like out of a distribution block, to make sure the smaller cable is still adequately protected.
03-31-2006, 03:42 PM
#29
And can we agree that it is a good idea to have a fuse seperating diffferent pieces of electrical equipment?
Both of my amps will accept 2g wire and with a total consuption of 200a max a 2g wire is sufficient as the run is not very long to the battery and then use a distro bock to use two more 2g wires into the amps (however I have a 1/0g main wire). Even though there is no step down in wire size I still feel it is a good idea to isolate each amplifier from the other with a fuse. For the price of a fuse and holder why not take the extra precaution?
Both of my amps will accept 2g wire and with a total consuption of 200a max a 2g wire is sufficient as the run is not very long to the battery and then use a distro bock to use two more 2g wires into the amps (however I have a 1/0g main wire). Even though there is no step down in wire size I still feel it is a good idea to isolate each amplifier from the other with a fuse. For the price of a fuse and holder why not take the extra precaution?
03-31-2006, 06:17 PM
#30
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 50
Originally Posted by Dukk
How about we split the difference and say that the underhood fuse CAN be sized to the total current draw of the equipment but should NEVER exceed the limit of the cable?
Does that make everyone happy?
Oh and one should re-fuse everytime the cable steps down in gauge - like out of a distribution block, to make sure the smaller cable is still adequately protected.
Does that make everyone happy?
Oh and one should re-fuse everytime the cable steps down in gauge - like out of a distribution block, to make sure the smaller cable is still adequately protected.
what i been saying the whole time,tottally agrreable with that statement made. thank you dukk for finding the words.
