How much power can a stock Alternator handle?
05-21-2007, 04:06 PM
#3
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 110
Originally Posted by Tom.F.1
120 minus the amount that your system draws will give you the amount left to run your car.
Doh!
You need a calulator?
Doh!
You need a calulator?
05-21-2007, 04:52 PM
#6
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 110
Originally Posted by zinger002
is your question a matter of how much power i can run before my alt dies from running so hard?
05-21-2007, 05:05 PM
#7
I have a 140 amp Stock alternator. This isn't rocket science. Simple addition and subtraction.
I have six amps. 2 of them are bridged and can draw 19 amps each, 2 are bridged, but the gain is turned down for rear fill, the other 2 can draw 10 amps each. Plus the head unit, interfaces, crossover caps and cd changers with switch.
So, with some educated guestimating, my system needs approximately 90amps of current. I have it running on a 100 amp fuse.
Keep in mind, your alt will only do about 60% rated load on the idle.
The car needs 10 amps for ingnition, 20 for lights. 10 more for air conditioning. Power windows, heated seats heated Mirrors. The big one is rear window defroster. 20 amps. Then you need enough current to recharge the battery you just drained running it with the car off.
If I run everything in the car, all at once, i don't have near enough power.....
So, I don't run everything at once.
When its really cold, I warm up the car, so i don't need everything running full blast when i first get in.
I don't run the stereo full blast at any time. or i would have been deaf years ago. I usually wait till i'm on the highway before i play loud.
If you didn't understand any of that, don't go over 1500 watt RMS on a 120 amp alt. Is that clearer?
I have six amps. 2 of them are bridged and can draw 19 amps each, 2 are bridged, but the gain is turned down for rear fill, the other 2 can draw 10 amps each. Plus the head unit, interfaces, crossover caps and cd changers with switch.
So, with some educated guestimating, my system needs approximately 90amps of current. I have it running on a 100 amp fuse.
Keep in mind, your alt will only do about 60% rated load on the idle.
The car needs 10 amps for ingnition, 20 for lights. 10 more for air conditioning. Power windows, heated seats heated Mirrors. The big one is rear window defroster. 20 amps. Then you need enough current to recharge the battery you just drained running it with the car off.
If I run everything in the car, all at once, i don't have near enough power.....
So, I don't run everything at once.
When its really cold, I warm up the car, so i don't need everything running full blast when i first get in.
I don't run the stereo full blast at any time. or i would have been deaf years ago. I usually wait till i'm on the highway before i play loud.
If you didn't understand any of that, don't go over 1500 watt RMS on a 120 amp alt. Is that clearer?
05-21-2007, 05:33 PM
#10
Originally Posted by jeffreyM
So would an amp such as the Rockford Fosgate P450.4 be ok? It requires a 60 amp fuse and I believe it is only 450 watts
List price: $299.95
Your price: $178.00
You save: $121.95 (40.66%)
General
RMS Power 60Watts
Power at 2 Ohms 110Watts
Bridged Power 225Watts
Bass Boost 0-18dB
Bass Boost Frequency 40Hz
Channel Operation 4
Input/Output
Fuse Rating 30 x 2Amp
Low-Pass Crossover Frequency 40-400Hz
Low-Pass Slope 12dB
High-Pass Crossover Frequency 40-400Hz
High-Pass Slop 12dB
Preamp Outputs 1 pair
That amp would be ok for the front, but you'd want something bigger for the subs. Maybe the P600.1 on two 4 ohm subs.
