nghtrdr, you do not have to operate a sub at full volume to damage it. One of the worst things that you can do is run a sub at or near it's thermal limits for a extended period of time. Time increases the amount of heat generated in all cases. Some subs will react better to it than others. Careful reading of his statements are also what led me to my conclusion. If his amp is also going thermal, the sub is seeing the same kind of heat being generated in it that is causing the amp to shut down......again, a slow downward spiral. Once the coils are heated up the for the 1st time, the damage is done and the train of destruction is set in motion.

You can throw a fully clipped signal into a sub all day long and still not damage a speaker, provided the mechanical or thermal barrier is not breached. A sub does not care what you feed it, be it a clean signal or something that is clipping all over the map. Fact of the matter is that very very very few people actually set their equipment up properly and use it properly.

Nothing wrong with trying the warranty route, it is there from any authorized dealer (if he purchased from a authorized dealer), some brands are better than others at this.

 

agreed... it was not suicide ... it was red rum

 

These two statments made me giggle.. Indeed kicker makes some good amplifiers but IMHO the subs/speakers are garbage... (and we won't get into why a 10" isn't 'faster' then a 18")



Clearly the voice coil has rubbed against and shorted out in the gap... it could be because it's 'blown'.. but it could also easilly be a manufacturing defect caused by either a misaligned coil or a spider that has come loose..

If you tear it apart and the coil windings are burned then it's pretty safe to say you blew it up... (The varnish the windings are coated with will start to burn up around 250 degrees C. BTW)



Either way, who cares what happened.. If you can get it replaced under warranty then do it...

 

Thank you.
I always thought my English skill were terrible, but after writing all these labs for school I guess I picked up a thing or two.


I'm definitely no expert, but I'm not retarded. My setup is quite simple. 4guage to the amp, 4AWG to ground (paint removed and what not) I have the gain at 'normal' (its labeled on the amp) and I never sent a distorted signal to it. Well, I never maxed out the deck (which is also Alpine)


I didn't explain why I picked the 10" very well. Although I had the idea that it was faster (someone said 12" can miss beats) It didn't make sense to me. A speaker moving at 1Khz is a speaker moving at 1Khz.
The reason I got a 10" was because of room constraints, and I don't need Really deep, loud bass.

Anyway to see inside there without tearing it apart? I sure if I did that, I would void the warranty.

And I'll definitely check into the warranty.

If the warranty doesn't go through, Can someone suggest me a sub for my needs? I was thinking of getting a 10'' Alpine Type-R, But from what I was reading its an SPL type sub. I'm not sure how that translate into normal listening. (Like I said, I listen to mainly metal, so I'm more concerned about a tight response VS loud)
I'm looking for a 10" (that my be obvious) 500WRMS.

Thanks for all the help, and replies.

 

TypeR is a nice subwoofer, I don't think you'd go wrong with a 10" version. I wouldn't consider this an SQ or SPL sub, something in the middle. A proper enclosure will make it an SQ woofer, if that what you're after.
Write Alpine an email, ask them to suggest an enclosure volume geared towards SQ.

 

Honey, I'm home.......

 

Holy crap, that looks just like me...

 

each summer when i'm on my road trip to bc i pound my subs hard (between at least 1/2 vol, all the way up to full at times) for about 12 hours straight. this is in the middle of the summer under the blazing sun in my black car with very minimal stopping. they've never given me problems. i'm kinda leaning towards a defect too, unless he's throwing some mad distortion at the subs and ended up cooking them that way..