This may be a useless question...
11-03-2008, 08:47 AM
#12
I could be wrong too. but i know i had an issue with my factory ground on my car getting hot even though i had 4 gauge ground there too. so i got rid of the factory ground and its fine now. but that may only go for the ground wire.
11-04-2008, 12:23 AM
#14
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 384
why wouldn't 4 guage be sufficient underthe hood. the guage of the wire is determined by the current draw AND the length of the wire. check this link for more info
Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes
a 4 guage wire that is 4 feet long can handle 188amps of current which equals about 1400rms power. That's assuming that the amp is 50% efficient. 0 guage, or 2 guage even is over kill for the big three under the hood.
If your getting head light dimming it's because there's not enough power in your electrical system. That means the problem is your alternator as it is the real power source of the car.
Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes
a 4 guage wire that is 4 feet long can handle 188amps of current which equals about 1400rms power. That's assuming that the amp is 50% efficient. 0 guage, or 2 guage even is over kill for the big three under the hood.
If your getting head light dimming it's because there's not enough power in your electrical system. That means the problem is your alternator as it is the real power source of the car.
Last edited by godzilla1978; 11-04-2008 at 12:28 AM.
11-04-2008, 03:05 AM
#15
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 101
why wouldn't 4 guage be sufficient underthe hood. the guage of the wire is determined by the current draw AND the length of the wire. check this link for more info
Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes
a 4 guage wire that is 4 feet long can handle 188amps of current which equals about 1400rms power. That's assuming that the amp is 50% efficient. 0 guage, or 2 guage even is over kill for the big three under the hood.
If your getting head light dimming it's because there's not enough power in your electrical system. That means the problem is your alternator as it is the real power source of the car.
Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes
a 4 guage wire that is 4 feet long can handle 188amps of current which equals about 1400rms power. That's assuming that the amp is 50% efficient. 0 guage, or 2 guage even is over kill for the big three under the hood.
If your getting head light dimming it's because there's not enough power in your electrical system. That means the problem is your alternator as it is the real power source of the car.
Based on the charts, it appears I should be upgrading the alt. to at least 172amp (1200W RMS of amplifier) from 105amp, and running 2 ga power wire to amp since length i am currently using is over 14 feet? Right now it's 4ga cable to the aq1200d. And yes it looks like 4ga cable will be suffeciant for the big 3 like you said.
If I'm wrong, feel free correcting me!
11-04-2008, 04:36 PM
#16
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 384
Thanks for the info and link.
Based on the charts, it appears I should be upgrading the alt. to at least 172amp (1200W RMS of amplifier) from 105amp, and running 2 ga power wire to amp since length i am currently using is over 14 feet? Right now it's 4ga cable to the aq1200d. And yes it looks like 4ga cable will be suffeciant for the big 3 like you said.
If I'm wrong, feel free correcting me!
Based on the charts, it appears I should be upgrading the alt. to at least 172amp (1200W RMS of amplifier) from 105amp, and running 2 ga power wire to amp since length i am currently using is over 14 feet? Right now it's 4ga cable to the aq1200d. And yes it looks like 4ga cable will be suffeciant for the big 3 like you said.
If I'm wrong, feel free correcting me!
11-04-2008, 04:43 PM
#17
Yankee
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,599
.... on the parallel run of cable resistance debacle... why would factory 4 or 8 gauge have more or less resistance than the additional cable? It could very well have less (probably determined by terminal connection quality)! And BTW the current would be shared by parallel runs of copper with the cable with the lowest resistance carrying the most current silly gooses.... current in a cable determines heat produced by the cable, but connection quality determines heat produced at a termination point (poor quality termination means more resistance to current flow) = more heat. AND this is why I recommend ring terminals over compression fittings.
So Shawn76... how big a cable can your amplifier accept? As far as cable size goes the sticky on this web site is pretty good for that stuff
So Shawn76... how big a cable can your amplifier accept? As far as cable size goes the sticky on this web site is pretty good for that stuff
Last edited by JohnVroom; 11-04-2008 at 04:48 PM.
11-04-2008, 04:44 PM
#18
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 101
if your lights are dimming you should get an alternator but you don't nessarily need a 172amp alt. Remember those ratings were for a amp that operates at 50% efficiency if your amp is more efficient(which is should be if it's a D-class amp.should be upwards of 70-85% efficient) you would need less current which means smaller alternator. However it's always best to get more than you need so you can upgrade.
Last edited by shawn76; 11-04-2008 at 04:54 PM.
11-04-2008, 04:53 PM
#19
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 101
.... on the parallel run of cable resistance debacle... why would factory 4 or 8 gauge have more or less resistance than the additional cable? It could very well have less (probably determined by terminal connection quality)! And BTW the current would be shared by parallel runs of copper with the cable with the lowest resistance carrying the most current silly gooses.
So Shawn76... how big a cable can your amplifier accept? As far as cable size goes the sticky on this web site is pretty good for that stuff
So Shawn76... how big a cable can your amplifier accept? As far as cable size goes the sticky on this web site is pretty good for that stuff
I'll check the sticky out to... must have overlooked it. Appreciate your help this far...
11-04-2008, 05:34 PM
#20
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 384
most likely the efficiency will go down a little but not enough to really cause any problems. JohnVroom's statement about the terminal ends is the best one I've seen in a while. There's no point in using a big ol' wire if the connection at the end is chit. If I remember correctly 0ga. is quite a bit bigger than 2ga. If the holes arent big enough you should find a distrobution block that goes from 0ga to 4ga or something like that since we've already established that 4ga. is more than enough for short runs.
